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What might be the best choice for a high temp seal on thin sheet aluminum? Login/Join 
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The aluminum grease tray on my gas grill has become perforated and is leaking to the ground even using the throwaway aluminum pan liners. I went to order another this morning but no joy.

Since I can't locate a replacement anywhere to purchase, even from Weber themselves, there are a couple of pinholes I need to seal.

I wonder if JB weld would work? Also considering high temp silicone. It will hit about 600 degrees maximum, maybe 50 more in the heat of summer.

The tray is formed to slide into slots to hold it under a Q300/320 grill chassis, so I can't use a generic tray. I guess hot enough particles fall down and burn a pinhole through the aluminum. I clean it with every use so it isn't old stuff burning through. Maybe the fact that it's clean and empty is working against me here? I was considering possibly cutting a flat piece of aluminum stock to conform to just the flat bottom, and adhering/sealing it with silicone, so that it's water/grease tight. Plus thicker should help.

Any ideas out there?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 83v45magna,
 
Posts: 7232 | Location: Dallas | Registered: August 04, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
is circumspective
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Would Blind Pop Rivets work?



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Posts: 5473 | Location: Las Vegas, NV. | Registered: May 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I never would have thought of that. I think they surely would, but I would still have to seal where they mounted through. Since this doesn't need that strength, sealant or maybe even JB weld would be good. I'll have to make a nice bead so it can be cleaned easily.

I'm just afraid if I try to just repair the holes, instead of the entire bottom, I'll have to deal with this again.
 
Posts: 7232 | Location: Dallas | Registered: August 04, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
E Pluribus Unum
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How about using rivets, as suggested above (great thought, btw Wink), and then using a piece of sheet metal to line the bottom.

That would provide reinforcement/protection to the already failing tray, and may be easier to clean.

Good luck.
 
Posts: 1407 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: March 05, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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While I'm usually onboard with building stuff like a tank, steel has no place here for two reasons: inferior heat dissapation and most important, rust. I have considered cutting the vessel portion out and riveting in a heavier aluminum pan. If I went that far (doubtful), I would rivet in a drain that attached a small clip to hold a standard tin can. Then I wouldn't be buying their special little disposable pans anymore either.

The one I have has two pretty tiny pinholes and otherwise looks pretty new.

Maybe a picture will help to visualize this.

 
Posts: 7232 | Location: Dallas | Registered: August 04, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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if they are pinholes how about some high temp spraypaint?
 
Posts: 8144 | Registered: July 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Partial dichotomy
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Stainless steel cookie sheet???




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Posts: 38600 | Location: SC Lowcountry/Cape Cod | Registered: November 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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High Temp RTV




 
Posts: 10045 | Registered: October 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Pinholes mean a larger area is very thin. I would buy a piece of 5000 series aluminum and make a new drip pan.

5052 does not corrode in saltwater, so should be good for a BBQ. Ebay sellers would have a pretty good selection. The material is easy to form and cut. Buy something the same thickness.


-c1steve
 
Posts: 4041 | Location: West coast | Registered: March 31, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by c1steve:
Pinholes mean a larger area is very thin. I would buy a piece of 5000 series aluminum and make a new drip pan.

5052 does not corrode in saltwater, so should be good for a BBQ. Ebay sellers would have a pretty good selection. The material is easy to form and cut. Buy something the same thickness.


I wonder though, would there be some problem if I used 1.6" thicker? Ebay sellers seem to pretty commonly have 1/16" 5025 sheets. My pan measured 1.00mm (.0395") or roughly .040". 1/16" is a tad over 1.58mm

I found an almost perfect piece, 5" x 8" x .040" thick. I should only have to trim one short edge and round the corners for it to lay flat. $9.50 shipped.

This was my resolution earlier today. Buy a sheet (thank you for the specific materials recommendation BTW) and cut it to fit the bottom of the pan and attach it with high temp clear silicone, making a nice bead adhered at the edges so water probably wont migrate between the sheets and corrode further.

I found the replacement part finally but it would cost around $28-30 shipped. Plus I'd just have the same fallible part I had before. Since I already have some nice aluminum specific trimmers, this repair will likely cost about $10 total. I also see this as an upgrade, better than original.

Thanks to everyone for their help. This likely will not be a very pretty repair so I'll likely not post any pics. I do need to find a new photo hosting service so maybe.
 
Posts: 7232 | Location: Dallas | Registered: August 04, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Oh stewardess,
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There is high temp (2000 degree) adhesive/sealant that's rated for stove pipes, dries black/dark grey, and it'll definitely stick the two pieces together, comes in tubes like fat toothpaste. Clean / prep the two surfaces where the adhesive will be, and maybe clamp or tape the two pieces together temporarily until it cures. Easy peasy. Rutland is one brand. I would, however, use a thin sheet of steel instead of aluminum. Similar in thickness and price.
 
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Rocksett is a high temperature adhesive, it's used to attach flash hider/muzzle adaptors for suppressors to rifle barrels. It's good from -350˚F to 2015˚F.

It's somewhat water soluble. To weaken/break the bond, you soak it in water for 24 hours.

Both Brownells and Midway stock it, as well as the manufacturer, Flexbar.

Manufacturer
Flexbar - Rocksett 2oz

Flexbar - Rocksett 4oz


Brownells - Rocksett 2oz

Midway - Rocksett 2oz



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Posts: 3873 | Location: Colorado | Registered: December 19, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'm having trouble picturing what you are trying to glue together, but if I where repairing the drip tray on my grill or fashioning a new one, I'd use blind pop rivets. Unlike regular pop rivets the hardware store carries, blind pop rivets have a closed end.
 
Posts: 10823 | Location: SWFL | Registered: October 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I wouldn't rivet it as all the metal is going to be thin.

Hi temp 2 part epoxy would be your best bet (short of having a welder weld an aluminum sheet on top of it. Hi temp RTV would be another fix. BUT, you're going to have to get it immacuately clean of grease for them to stick.
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
I'm having trouble picturing what you are trying to glue together
There is a Yuuuge picture above, but it's essentially a tiny aluminum casserole pan shape with a giant rim. The bottom has a couple of small holes. I will cut a new piece of .040" thick 5052 aluminum to lay flat in the bottom, and be adhered to the original piece (the one with the perforations). So I should still be able to put the little Weber disposable pans in it, and remove and clean it as they originally planned.

quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
I wouldn't rivet it as all the metal is going to be thin.

Hi temp 2 part epoxy would be your best bet (short of having a welder weld an aluminum sheet on top of it. Hi temp RTV would be another fix. BUT, you're going to have to get it immacuately clean of grease for them to stick.

Yeah no rivets.

Acetone should clean both pieces 100% free of anything.

The inside of the lid thermometer goes to 600f and in hottest weather I got it a little higher once, maybe 650f. The pan sitting underneath, would have a hard time getting much above 300f. Far less I would think under most typical use. I think most RTV is ok up to 500f, so I will go with that. I want to make a nice bead around the edge and be able to seal well enough that I don't trap much in such a way as to make it hard to get clean, or to have a layer of water. I have a theory that I should have had water in that pan to keep new holes from burning through the aluminum. So I'll likely try that out this go round.

I also want to use clear silicone since I think red or black will wind up looking like hammered excrement. It's traditional and historic of my use of glues and adhesives that I WILL make a mess of this. I really don't want or need an RTV rendering of my thumbprints on this in red or black to remind me of my ineptitude every time I pull this out of the grill. Big Grin

Discussing silicone, I am led to wonder what happens to regular, no high temp silicone at around 300f?
 
Posts: 7232 | Location: Dallas | Registered: August 04, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by 83v45magna:
quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
I'm having trouble picturing what you are trying to glue together
There is a Yuuuge picture above, but it's essentially a tiny aluminum casserole pan shape with a giant rim. The bottom has a couple of small holes. I will cut a new piece of .040" thick 5052 aluminum to lay flat in the bottom, and be adhered to the original piece (the one with the perforations). So I should still be able to put the little Weber disposable pans in it, and remove and clean it as they originally planned.

quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
I wouldn't rivet it as all the metal is going to be thin.

Hi temp 2 part epoxy would be your best bet (short of having a welder weld an aluminum sheet on top of it. Hi temp RTV would be another fix. BUT, you're going to have to get it immacuately clean of grease for them to stick.

Yeah no rivets.

Acetone should clean both pieces 100% free of anything.

The inside of the lid thermometer goes to 600f and in hottest weather I got it a little higher once, maybe 650f. The pan sitting underneath, would have a hard time getting much above 300f. Far less I would think under most typical use. I think most RTV is ok up to 500f, so I will go with that. I want to make a nice bead around the edge and be able to seal well enough that I don't trap much in such a way as to make it hard to get clean, or to have a layer of water. I have a theory that I should have had water in that pan to keep new holes from burning through the aluminum. So I'll likely try that out this go round.

I also want to use clear silicone since I think red or black will wind up looking like hammered excrement. It's traditional and historic of my use of glues and adhesives that I WILL make a mess of this. I really don't want or need an RTV rendering of my thumbprints on this in red or black to remind me of my ineptitude every time I pull this out of the grill. Big Grin

Discussing silicone, I am led to wonder what happens to regular, no high temp silicone at around 300f?


It burns and stinks to high heaven. I'd still recommend a 2 part high heat epoxy over silicon. You can still form a nice bead around the edge with a wet finger.
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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