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Any issue using this paneling as a ceiling in a building application? Login/Join 
Green grass and
high tides
Picture of old rugged cross
posted
It is an MDF paneling. Thinking about using it as a ceiling on an inside a building application.
.139 thickness so it is pretty thin, but the truss' are spaced 24" oc. There will be R40 insulation blown in above it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aut...1394809600/302775248



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Posts: 19111 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of mjlennon
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You'd be fine adhering it to gypsum board substrate. Otherwise, as it indicates in the specs, it's for wall use. I suspect otherwise you may get some sag, especially considering 24" OC.
 
Posts: 1817 | Location: Fayetteville, Georgia | Registered: December 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Pretty sure the insulation will be too heavy for it with 24" joists spacing.
 
Posts: 3663 | Location: PA | Registered: November 15, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of cparktd
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Would not do it.

It will warp and sag terribly, even if you block the seams. Even if on 16" OC joist.



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Posts: 4118 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of cparktd
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quote:
Originally posted by cparktd:
Would not do it.

It will warp and sag terribly, even if you block the seams. Even if on 16" OC joist.


It MIGHT work OK if put on furring strips 12" OC.



If it ain't woke... don't fix it.
 
Posts: 4118 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of smlsig
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That's about 1/8" thick....no way will it support the insulation without significantly bowing.

As was mentioned above you could run 2x4 firing strips maybe on 12" centers and it would be better.


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Posts: 6309 | Location: In transit | Registered: February 19, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
You didn't get penetration
even with the elephant gun.
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It will absorb moisture and sag a lot.


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Posts: 2243 | Location: AZ | Registered: January 30, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Its not flame retardent is it?


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Posts: 1549 | Location: Fayetteville, NC | Registered: April 05, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Green grass and
high tides
Picture of old rugged cross
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ok guys, that is why I asked. I knew you guys would know.

So this is small cabin. I want to eventually do a wood (cedar or blue knotty pine) walls. But the ceiling is first and I am looking for a ceiling material. We are thinking the walls and ceiling being the same is going to be too much of a good thing. Not sure though.

Thoughts on doing the ceiling and what to use?

Thanks guys.



"Practice like you want to play in the game"
 
Posts: 19111 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of qcsmitty
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MDF is a very unstable product. Looks like you've gotten some sage advise already.


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Posts: 3778 | Location: Charlotte, NC | Registered: May 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Your best bet is to screw plywood (1/2" to the joists and then glue the mdf panel to the plywood. The plywood will hold the weight of the insulation.
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of was0311
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quote:
Originally posted by qcsmitty:
MDF is a very unstable product. Looks like you've gotten some sage advise already.


Actually it is very stable. Just not very strong in the application the OP is asking about.

At 24" OC you will get sag, even 12" is pushing it at the material depth indicated. You could put 1x2 Poplar as "Battens" on the outboard side if you wanted rather than furring. Just screw them through the MDF to the joists.
 
Posts: 2654 | Location: Eastern NE | Registered: July 12, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Have you considered the possibility of using the corrugated metal that they use for metal buildings? That is what we used in our hunting cabin. Prefinished with lots of colors available, plenty strong and comes in pretty good sized sheets.




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Posts: 3758 | Location: Wichita, Kansas | Registered: March 27, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of bigdeal
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quote:
Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Thoughts on doing the ceiling and what to use?

Thanks guys.
If you really dig wood, I'd shop T&G options. You'll have quite a few options to choose from.


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Posts: 33845 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: April 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Green grass and
high tides
Picture of old rugged cross
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Thanks guys. Sailor. We did use metal on the roof and exterior siding. It is a good option for the ceiling but my wife is not hot on the idea.



"Practice like you want to play in the game"
 
Posts: 19111 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Caribou gorn
Picture of YellowJacket
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agreed with everyone that it will sag too much.

in my opinion, dark ceilings close in a space and light colors make spaces feel much bigger. if you're after a rustic look, I'd suggest a 1x6 or 1x8 wood plank painted white and maybe distressed to achieve the rustic look. you can t&g or ship lap.

if that seems too expensive, 1/4" plywood might be the way to go. battens at the edges. I would paint it, personally, but I've seen plenty where it was not.



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Posts: 10474 | Location: Marietta, GA | Registered: February 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'd go with some T&G pine/cedar siding. If you're looking to do knotty pine on the walls eventually I'd try to do the ceiling in that now with some T&g knotty pin car siding or something along those lines. Easier to install than plywood and will give that rustic/cabin look you're going for. Make sure to put a moisture barrier down before putting up the ceiling. I'd also consider prefinishing before install - heck of a lot easier to do it on the ground than on the ceiling. Just keep it out of the tongue/groove.




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Posts: 1745 | Location: Red Wing, MN | Registered: January 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Green grass and
high tides
Picture of old rugged cross
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What is knotty pine car siding?

Thinking we may do T&G cedar on the ceiling and KP on the walls. Might even consider this MDF paneling on the walls. I assume you would just nail it to the framing. 16" oc walls. We could do the walls for around $500 if so. That is pretty appealing.



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Posts: 19111 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Little ray
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Picture of jhe888
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Aside from physical problems, it will look very dark on a ceiling. The room will seem low and dim. Cave-like, even.




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Posts: 53118 | Location: Texas | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by cparktd:
quote:
Originally posted by cparktd:
Would not do it.

It will warp and sag terribly, even if you block the seams. Even if on 16" OC joist.


It MIGHT work OK if put on furring strips 12" OC.


This!

That gives plenty of places to use small headed nails, brads, etc. You can also get nails that are colored so they will not stand out as much.

I was originally thinking 16 inch centers, but given how thin that stuff is, 12 inches seems to be better. I would use at least 1x2, probably 1x3s given the probable insulation weight load.


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Posts: 25640 | Location: Virginia | Registered: December 16, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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