Maybe someone has a hack that’ll help me out...I’m trying to remove the screws that’s hold down the MAF in my truck’s cold air intake. It’s aftermarket and I put it in and have never tried to remove it. I was trying to pull the MAF off to clean it. The screws are torx bit and I have a bit that fits. The issue is that the screws aren’t grabbing the plastic to be able to come out, they just spin. I took the whole intake off and tried to reach in (I didn’t touch the MAF) to apply pressure to the tip of the screw, but it’s encased in plastic. I can’t get vice grips or pliers on the head to be able to apply outward force while I unscrew it.

Any ideas or tool suggestions where I can apply outward pressure so the screws grab and can be removed?

Thanks,
CT

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ChasinTails,

A touch of super glue to the torx bit end and insert into the screw head. Let dry for a bit and it should hold enough for you to apply outward pressure to remove the screw. Just an idea.

Can you get a thin prybar under the head of the screw/bolt to apply some upward pressure while trying to unscrew it? Maybe an old butter knife, hacksaw blade etc... any thin piece of relatively sturdy metal?

Having pulled a bunch of fasteners when removing aircraft panels (yeah, likely a million screws over my career).

I would use a scribe to get under the head, and apply light pressure to get the head lifed.
Then used a "wishbone", made from a broad flat tip screwdriver that was bent about 30 degrees.

You should be able to get the heads up enough and get any V shaped under them to assist.

If they are recessed into the MAF, that might need another method.

You could use a dab of hot glue, coating the torque bit, then stabbing it in the screw head, let it cool, then back them out.

Reverse threaded drill bit will back it right out as soon as it drills in just enough to get a good grip.

Dental pick under the screw head.

I tried getting a flat head under the head but it wasn’t even pressure around the head. May try the glue and try to fashion some sort of prying implement that applies pressure around the screw head somewhat evenly.

Thanks,
CT

Sigmonkey with all those thousands of panel removals -- have you never dipped your bit into some valve grinding compound and removing the fastener that way? It seems to grip and gives more purchase. Holler back if it works for you.

quote:

Originally posted by ChasinTails:
May try the glue and try to fashion some sort of prying implement that applies pressure around the screw head somewhat evenly.

Thanks,
CT

Careful with the super glue. Don't let any seep down onto/into the threads. Nothing good will come from that !

Go to a hardware store, or Walmart, and get a Tack Remover. It's tool like the modified screwdriver Sigmonkey describes.

are you somehow able to get a wire noose around under the head? Think of an inner strand of a stripped wire.

A quick pic of the screw would help us brainstorm.

quote:

Originally posted by sigmonkey:
Having pulled a bunch of fasteners when removing aircraft panels (yeah, likely a million screws over my career).

I would use a scribe to get under the head, and apply light pressure to get the head lifed.
Then used a "wishbone", made from a broad flat tip screwdriver that was bent about 30 degrees.

You should be able to get the heads up enough and get any V shaped under them to assist.

If they are recessed into the MAF, that might need another method.

You could use a dab of hot glue, coating the torque bit, then stabbing it in the screw head, let it cool, then back them out.

Before using a metal lever, I'd go with a popsicle stick made into a wedge by rubbing it on concrete.

The wood may be able to catch and prevent inadvertent damage.

Since the screw in spinning in the anchor, an ez-out isn't going to work.

quote:

Originally posted by Nismo:
are you somehow able to get a wire noose around under the head? Think of an inner strand of a stripped wire.

A quick pic of the screw would help us brainstorm.

I suggested this earlier and you describe it a bit better. I think this would work. Slip knot wire noose. A spare piece of lan cable or phone line with fine copper or some speaker wire might work if it's thin and strong enough. I also think floss might work if it's decent strength. Hoop it over the head, tighten, pull up, and twist.

^^ Yep, sorry I didnt see your post earlier.

If that doesn't work, you can always go the chaotic route and heat up the screw with a solder iron and melt it out of the threads and re tap, or use another method of fastening.

I replaced my MAF screws with bolts and nuts, but I'm able to access the bolts and nuts from both sides.

quote:

Originally posted by Tinyman:
Sigmonkey with all those thousands of panel removals -- have you never dipped your bit into some valve grinding compound and removing the fastener that way? It seems to grip and gives more purchase. Holler back if it works for you.

That works when the screw head is partially stripped. Old mechanic's trick, among many.

When the threads in the materila, or the screw itself, are stripped, valve grinding compound won't work.

A knife/razor blade beneath the screw. Twist.

Lots of good ideas. Gonna try some of them out tomorrow and see what happens. Thought about a wire but don’t have any that thin lying around. Probably going to buy or fashion a Y shaped pry-bar of some sort and see what happens....

Thanks again for the ideas.

CT

I had exactly that happen on MAF screws on a 20 yr old Volvo. I used the Monkeys' method, then held a flat head screwdriver in the gap to pull and a powered screwdriver to spin it out.
Then I replaced those stupid security torx with larger thread diameter 'normal screws' from my vast collection (bucket) to make up for the stripped threads and have never looked back.

You probably have a fork to sacrifice. Grind off a couple of tines, grind down and/or bend the remaining to fit the fastener. If the host plastic is broken on the inside of the intake tube and inaccessible, nothing may work. You might have to find another intake tube. AIRAID has intake tubes available.

Fingernails work, slip under the head, and lift up, or any flat tool, wood stick, wire, dental floss, to get under the head and apply upward pressure as you turn it out, usually you only need a slight amount of pressure to get it to come out..

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:

quote:

Originally posted by Tinyman:
Sigmonkey with all those thousands of panel removals -- have you never dipped your bit into some valve grinding compound and removing the fastener that way? It seems to grip and gives more purchase. Holler back if it works for you.

That works when the screw head is partially stripped. Old mechanic's trick, among many.

When the threads in the materila, or the screw itself, are stripped, valve grinding compound won't work.

A knife/razor blade beneath the screw. Twist.

Yes, had I actually read the entire post instead of thinking, I'd have caught that bit of information.