My current HT integrated amp is 20YO.

My dumb HD TV has hdmi inputs and a TOS Link fiber optic output.
The amp has optical input so my sources (PC, XBox One and Chromecast) are plugged into the TV and the optical feeds the amp. Got Dolby Digital and DTS covered. It works but there's room for improvement.

What specs the collective suggest for my next sound system amp/receiver?

My guesses are it should include at least multiple HDMI inputs and output (?), BT, 4k and some sort of networking capability and cellphone managment/connectivity.
Room not big enough for more than 5.1

I might replace my TV with a Smart UHD (?) 4k LG bought in 2017 and update the Xbox in a year or so.

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Budget and power?

I like this one
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_...20-model.html?tp=179

But I caught one of these on sale. I really like it.
https://www.pioneerhomeusa.com/product/vsx-934-2/

You need a multi-channel receiver.
It will/should have multiple HDMI inputs.
It will have the Dolby Digital (+) min.
Your decoding of Surround will happen on the receiver not the TV.
You will unplug all the devices from the TV and plug them into the receiver.
Connect your 5.1 speakers.
Switch from devices on your receiver.
Newer receivers may/not have Dolby Atmos but will require more speakers.
Brands to look at Yamaha, Denon, Onkyo to name a few.
You can get an older unit with all of this sans the new Atmos for a lot less $$.

I'm sure that are a 100 good responses that will fit here.

Depending on what you're doing, I've been very partial to Integra over Pioneer, Yamaha, HK. Haven't had Marantz or Denon. For me, my music, my room, my speakers, Integra is clearly above par at similar price points. I have a 50.6 which serves me well for music and streaming video (apple 4K tv box).

smschultz nailed as far as what I plan to do.

The three proposed brands are the ones I target. Down here in the fourth world i will pay at least double of what you guys can find and likely the top models available are the cheaper mid of the line. Rest/better not imported since prices are prohibitive.

What about the basic requirements of a model that should last for the rest of my days?
Ive stayed with Yamaha since the 80s. My first HT was the DSP1, first Yamaha surround sound processor and currently own an A1. ´Have heard a lot of good things about Onkyo and Denon.

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I bought an AVR to use as a switch. Since I dumped cable, all I use is a DVD (seldom to never) and a Roku. I am finding most content unwatchable with the SJW themes and gay content in every show. Home theater would be great if you have the software. Guess I am going back to stereo.

Yep, smshultz nailed it. Make sure the TV has an HDMI port marked ARC. Lose the optical cable. I have two Yamaha's: both are 5.1 that were older or used (floor models). Look for model numbers that end in *85.

The ARC spec reminder is exactly what i'm talking about!
This is a minuscule market and i bet dollars to dirt that most regular audio dealers have no clue what it means but it makes a world of difference to me.

Is ARC a requirement for the TV also or just the amp/receiver?

You got me scratching the back of my head regarding the 85 model reference. I believe have seen plenty with those numbers. The ones imported and available are mid-range in the Yamaha catalog.

Thank you and please keep it coming.
Wonder how much do i need BT. Can't help but noticing there are plenty of BT, speakerds, soundbars, headsets and whatnots that use it.

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Nicky,

Just the TV has to have an ARC capable HDMI port.

This provides for transferring audio from the TV back to a home theater receiver with the same HDMI connection that's used to transfer video (e.g. Blu-Ray player, etc.) from a home theater receiver to the TV.

With HDMI ARC you can hear TV audio through a home theater audio system instead of the TV's speakers without having to also connect analog or digital optical audio cables between the TV and home theater system.

This works well with my 2007 vintage Onkyo TX-SR705S A/V receiver and my 2018 TCL Series 6 65R615 65” 4K 2160P HDR RokuTV. The TV is also set to control both receiver volume and turning on/off the receiver(HDMI-CEC enabled). FWIW I'm running a 7+2 home theater setup.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: bald1,

Don't fret over the ARC spec on anything recent.
You can use older equipment.
The newer stuff will have more advanced DSP and I draw the line ant Dolby Digital and prefer Dolby Digital Plus, the latest also incorporates ATMOS.
The later simply is a way to add more sound through more speakers and more DSP (Digital Sound Processing).
I have found that 5.1 is quite adequate but more is always better if you have the equipment, the space, the speakers and the money.
It is hard enough to shoe horn in a sub, center (2) front and (2) rear ~ let alone adding more.

Adding Networking components such as LAN, WiFi or BT is a bonus for convenience but not necessary.
The AVR doesn't have to have BT to use BT speakers.

I previously wired mine as you did Nicky, with just stereo (2-ch) sound and it was OK.
Then I got a Yamaha RX-667 receiver given to me by an IT client who got it as a trade-in.
I guess it is roughly 6~8 years old +/-.
It has moderate power, 7.2 Dolby Digital Plus, and no real networking.
I did have to buy a remote ($20) and a mic for the built-in speaker placement/tuning ($30).
Plugged in my 5.1 speakers and it was a dramatic improvement over the 2-ch sound.

Like I said some networking would be nice but it wouldn't improve the sound just adding some convenience to the mix.

So what I am saying some older but not ancient equipment would work fine.
Older speakers are NO problem at all.

My original -1987- Yamaha DSP 1 sound processor was a creature from another world. It has way too many programs and parameters for an endless entertainment and surprise. It's old analog technology but it was build for stereo, rear and virtual front speakers.

A music collection multiplier.

The A1 has room for stereo, rear, front, two central and two subs. More options than speakers and room. Not to mention my hearing capabilities at this point in life.

I'll settle for a nice 5.1 or 7.1.
Must take a closer look at the 4k tv i can get my hands on. Already payed for.

Do rear speakers specs must match stereo ones nowadays? My DSP 1 surround ones are not decent enough. Built more for bouncing echos that full sound signals.

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quote:

Do rear speakers specs must match stereo ones nowadays? My DSP 1 surround ones are not decent enough. Built more for bouncing echos that full sound signals.

The bulk of the sound will come from the front.
What is equally important is the placement and the acoustical environment (room size, hard vs soft surfaces, etc).
Rear speakers don't have to be the sonic superstars like the front.
With most modern sets (like Yamaha) they have a calibration mic and the AVR will generate test tones to help with the speaker placement.
The biggest and hardest part is setting up the sub properly ~ adjusting levels and placement as not to overpower everything.
There are additional fine tuning for the sound connoisseur with calibrated mics and REW (room EQ Wizard Software) and there is even a separate device for the sub utilizing the same free (but complicated) software and a device called MINIDSP that maps and adjusts bass.
Lots of fun there.

The only exception is where you might want to use multiple ch stereo for ambient music (music coming out of all channels, not just the fronts). Can keep music equally ambient throughout the room w/o blasting it from the fronts only.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
The only exception is where you might want to use multiple ch stereo for ambient music (music coming out of all channels, not just the fronts). Can keep music equally ambient throughout the room w/o blasting it from the fronts only.

Yes, You want to make sure the AVR has the DSP programming to accommodate that.
Most do, even the older Yamaha receiver I mentioned above has 2-ch and 7.2 ch audio (also works in 5.1 speaker setup).
I will usually switch to the stereo mode when the program does not support the surround sound.
It also remembers the setting which is nice.
When I switch over to Netflix it changes to the Surround mode.

Used to own a Technics graphic eq that came with its own pink noise generator and a mic programed for balancing room acoustics.

My current room acoustics are far from perfect but sound is pleasant enough, room size isn't that great but sometimes that comes with married life

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quote:

Originally posted by 0-0:
Used to own a Technics graphic eq that came with its own pink noise generator and a mic programed for balancing room acoustics.

My current room acoustics are far from perfect but sound is pleasant enough, room size isn't that great but sometimes that comes with married life

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The adjustment these AVR's are not frequency oriented.
They adjust and match volume and time delay of a speaker to a point as referenced by the calibration mic.
The software is baked into the AVR itself so computer not necessary.
It measures a speaker at a time and can aid in optimal placement for better sound.

If I am not mistaken bluetooth on a receiver refers to its ability to receive a signal. I bought BT headphones and I don't think my receiver has a BT transmitter. It can be addes with a separate box

Interesting info. Thank you guys.


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