I bought a Malone kayak trailer. It's still being shipped. But I've been reading that the cross bars (65") are a little weak and that some people experience some bending.

Some people have made comments that they've put #5 rebar in the hollow crossbar. I can do that but not sure how to make it such that the rebar doesn't fly out the plastic capped end during turns.

I'm wondering if I might be able to insert something like this into the 1.25" crossbars. But don't know if this would help strengthen the bars in any meaningful manner. Would this help prevent the bars from bending (dynamic load issue?)?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ev...ick-801307/204273940

Another choice may be to get a 3rd cross bar set up - would go in between the 2 initial crossbars (48" spread).

I suggested you buy a "real" trailer. Trying to make one out of these is a futile effort. Good luck in the endeavor though

It's strong enough to hold a roll of toilet paper, or maybe a small jacket with the pockets empty. I agree with old rugged cross.

Hehe. Yea I plan to. I want to buy one that is suited for off road use. General utility (5x8) seemed like it was going to be challenged getting lakeside. But will have to buy used (they seem to be expensive) so I’m learning what to look for, brands and features. Then the hunt. For now, this will have to do for local kayak runs. This seems within my skill level too.

Eventually, will use the off road trailer for kayaks, etc. Then will sell this trailer and buy a Big Tex for other general uses (although may not really need one - UHaul rentals seem cheap for as much as I would need one. 5x8 is $20 for 6 hours?

Would love a small off road cable teardrop that I could sleep in as well as use to carry kayaks.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
I'm wondering if I might be able to insert something like this into the 1.25" crossbars. But don't know if this would help strengthen the bars in any meaningful manner. Would this help prevent the bars from bending (dynamic load issue?)?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ev...ick-801307/204273940

You would be trading one problem (bending) for another - galvanic series corrosion. Your kayak trailer has a galvanized steel frame and attaching unisolated aluminum bars on it will result in corrosion at a very high rate.

You guys always amaze. I’ll consider the factory third row cross bar if I see bending with my loads.

quote:

Originally posted by tatortodd:
You would be trading one problem (bending) for another - galvanic series corrosion. Your kayak trailer has a galvanized steel frame and attaching unisolated aluminum bars on it will result in corrosion at a very high rate.

Very nice catch!

from what you asked and what you've read the rebar is probably the quickest and easiest solution... it might not stop the bend but it probably won't hurt. How to keep it from coming out? Seal it in with Great Stuff is one option.

The aluminum piece you showed a link to will do nothing. I would not worry about the galvanic corrosion because it is the alumninum that would be eaten up.... and it's not really going to give any support anyway.

The one problem with the rebar idea is if you are going to be dipping the trailer in salt water.... it will rust quick and fast.

How much load are you putting on the crossbars? I know the Yakima roundbars are rated at 300lbs. I have a tough time getting anywhere close to that with a load of kayaks.

How does the cross bar attach? Maybe a larger bar could be installed.
That aluminum bar has very little bending strength.

I'd wait until I received the trailer, loaded some kayaks and actually used it a couple time before I worried about modifying it. That aluminium bar won't do what you want.

quote:

Originally posted by Blume9mm:
I would not worry about the galvanic corrosion because it is the alumninum that would be eaten up.... and it's not really going to give any support anyway.

The aluminum will corrode where it contacts steel which is where the load is transferred to the thin aluminum member. When you have corrosion and a load then you’re prone to stress corrosion cracking. Buying the aluminum bar is a waste of money because it’ll snap in a short time period.

quote:

Great Stuff

Interesting - never heard of that before.

Thanks for all the help guys. My load is probably around 160 pounds - not sure what is causing the bar bending that I'm reading on the webz but maybe road bumps and dynamic impacts play a factor here.

The bars are supposed to be able allow for up to 4 kayaks I think. If I'm loading only 2, I need to figure out if I should place the kayaks close together in the middle of the bars or if I should spread them out toward the edges. Edges sounds better from a bar structural capability perspective but not sure if it's good for center of gravity and trailer leaning as I go up and down random inclines on trails.

In any case, Al bars are out. I'll get a 3rd bar if needed and also still consider the rebar.

I never would have guessed about the ineffectiveness of the Al bar nor the corrosion. Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
I'll get a 3rd bar if needed and also still consider the rebar.

If you get a 3rd bar, I suggest putting it in the frame as close as possible to where the front spring suspension bracket attaches. That is where roughly half the load is transferring to the leaf springs, and the back cross member looks close but it looks like there is a couple feet before a cross member on the front of the spring bracket.

BTW, my first job out of college was as a design engineer for custom heavy haul trailer manufacturer. It's been many years, but I designed dozens and dozens of heavy haul trailers including some really unique trailers like a spent nuclear fuel rod trailer for the navy and molten aluminum hauler for a foundry.

Thanks for the tip. Looks like a 3rd bar would fit in the suggested area. And attach it to the exterior frame only - not to the mid frame cross member?

Sounds like a cool job - each project is different and unique with interesting problem solving.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Thanks for the tip. Looks like a 3rd bar would fit in the suggested area. And attach it to the exterior frame only - not to the mid frame cross member?

I'd attach it to both outer frame and "mid frame" just like they do.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Sounds like a cool job - each project is different and unique with interesting problem solving.

That part was interesting, especially on the steerable trailers. The downside is that since it was custom there were a handful of us in engineering and 30x the people in the fab shop. If delivery priority changed we could go from being a couple weeks ahead of production to giving up our nights and weekends in the span of one meeting. Lots of short term layoffs in the fab shop blamed on us if management changed delivery priority.f

Fortunately, the oil & gas company I had interned at realized they had downsized too far and tracked me down.

I think the trailer will be plenty strong enough. You’re only carrying 160 or so pounds of kayaks. The bars probably get bent from 200 lb guys standing on the trailer to load, strap, or unload the kayaks.

Maybe try a 1" hardwood dowel and epoxy inside your tubing.

Find a small weld shop. 1. They will know how to weld the galvanized joints. 2. Short welds, say 2” long, will tremendously strengthen the whole trailer. 3. They could put a longer tongue on the trailer (say 4-5’) making it a whole lot easier to back up.

When all is done, soak some thinned Rustoleum paint into the weld joints.

A bolted together trailer is a good sales item. Cheap, easy to pack/ship and short life span - so they sell more of them. Consider it a good start, then welded and customized to your needs and they will long outlive their expected lifespan. Mine was a full boat trailer. Rollers removed, metal gratings welded on. Tie things on anywhere on the grating, carries canoes, motorcycles, lumber, ladders, etc. long tongue pulls and backs beautifully.

Probably not a good idea to try and back up with yours attached to the vehicle.