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How to remove slotted wood screws? Login/Join 
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Picture of arcwelder
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Unscrew the other side of the hinge.

Clamp the bent side flat through a sacrificial block, or pount flat with punch or block.

With needle nose vice grip, grab head and remove.

Or, center punch the heads, then drill with 3/32 until they pop.


Arc.
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Posts: 27000 | Location: On fire, off the shoulder of Orion | Registered: June 09, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Captain Morgan
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If they are brass you could just break the head off and get the remaining screw out with vise grips. This is a last resort.
I would dremel a slot first of course.
I would replace the screws with square drive type from McFeelys.



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Posts: 3858 | Location: Sparta, NJ USA | Registered: August 16, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of maladat
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With a hammer and a small punch or sturdy small slotted screwdriver you could probably tap the edges of the screws and spread the slot back open.

For that matter, a small enough chisel (not a good one, obviously!) could probably be used as a screwdriver with the existing narrow slot.

If the head of the screw sticks up at all above the surface of the hinge, Vampliers screw extraction pliers are like magic. They make a small size that works for little bitty screws.

https://www.vampiretools.com/p...w-extraction-pliers/

(They're actually made by Engineer Tools in Japan.)
 
Posts: 6319 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of konata88
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Thanks guys!!!

The screws are kind of recessed and flush. I don’t have a dremel to cut a slot. I have the oscillating dremel that I used for grout removal but don’t have the rotating type.

I think drilling off the head and then plier out the body may work.

I hope I can find a similar hinge if I can’t flatten it out. Just worried about the custom inset.




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
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Posts: 12683 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You need some tiny tools.

A tiny cold chisel (slightly narrower than the screw head) set right where the slot should be, and hit it until it opens. It will open.
 
Posts: 1345 | Location: WI | Registered: July 07, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Just because you can,
doesn't mean you should
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Left handed drill bit with a reversible drill might take the head off and get the threaded part out.
Make sure you get it centered well.


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Posts: 9456 | Location: NE GA | Registered: August 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Tiny, tiny charges of Tannerite?

H&K-Guy
 
Posts: 3720 | Registered: April 08, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Frangas non Flectes
Picture of P220 Smudge
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quote:
Originally posted by konata88:
Thanks guys!!!

The screws are kind of recessed and flush. I don’t have a dremel to cut a slot. I have the oscillating dremel that I used for grout removal but don’t have the rotating type.

I think drilling off the head and then plier out the body may work.

I hope I can find a similar hinge if I can’t flatten it out. Just worried about the custom inset.


I have a fair amount of experienced removing stripped and malformed brass wood screws with the snip and twist method outlined via my last job, oddly enough, and I highly recommend trying Arc's method first. It relieves all the stress from the screws you're trying to remove and makes the most physical sense, as I think it through, retaining the original structure to get good rotation is gonna help you. Man's good with his hands, I advise his approach.


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Posts: 17061 | Location: Sonoran Desert | Registered: February 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
delicately calloused
Picture of darthfuster
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Now that we have pics, I would grind a slotted bit thin enough to fit and see if they will turn out. I suspect the screw are bent enough that they will not. In that case, go with Arc's method.



You’re a lying dog-faced pony soldier
 
Posts: 29608 | Location: Highland, Ut. | Registered: May 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Yokel
Picture of ontmark
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Use a pointed center punch.
Punch the middle of the slot. This should open the slot up a bit.
Use a small punch to tap the slot outwards to open it up.
Spray a little penetrating oil or liquid dish soap on the screws and let it soak in.
Use a good tip on an Impact Driver and tap on it to back the screws out.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman...-HgdgCFYi5ZAod_TYK9Q



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Posts: 3878 | Location: Vallejo, CA | Registered: August 18, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of 41
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Looks like someone sprung the door too far and bent the hinges.

I would get a C-clamp and block of wood on the underside and something metal over the hinge part to the bent wing and try to bend the wing back. Then the screws would have enough clearance to back out.


41
 
Posts: 11828 | Location: Herndon, VA | Registered: June 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of konata88
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I was sensing that Arc’s recommendation was good. And a couple of votes in support.

Sadly, I’m having some difficulty visualizing what to do.




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 12683 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
non ducor, duco
Picture of Nickelsig229
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Just get a drill bit smaller then the head of the screw, drill the center of the screw till the head pops off but no further. It looks like less then an 1/8 of an inch. Do that on both screws, then remove the hinge and door.

That will leave you with two screw threads still in the wood, grab a vise grip or needle nose pliers grip the screw threads and back them out like your unscrewing it.




First In Last Out
 
Posts: 4787 | Location: CT | Registered: October 15, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Age Quod Agis
Picture of ArtieS
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quote:
Originally posted by olfuzzy:
Another option is to use a drill bit the same size as the head of the screw. Once you have drilled off the head you should be able to pull the hinge off leaving enough screw shaft to get hold of with vise grips.

I'd probably take this route, then fully remove the hinge, then tap it flat with a hammer to remove the kink in it (replace if the metal is cracked).

If the wood underneath is all bodged up so that new screws won't bite, drill the holes out, fit and glue hardwood wooden plugs in the holes, then re-drill the screw holes and replace with new screws.



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Posts: 12748 | Location: Central Florida | Registered: November 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I think I'd grab my feeler gauges and determine the width of those slots. I'd then, if I didn't have it already, order the proper screwdriver bit from Brownell's almost unlimited selection of gunsmithing bits, some of which are much thinner blades than normal. You should be able to match the blade thickness as well as blade width for those screws.

Good luck with this one.


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Posts: 5785 | Location: Pegram, TN | Registered: March 17, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Oh stewardess,
I speak jive.
Picture of 46and2
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straighten/flatten and reuse the hinges.
 
Posts: 25613 | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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