You're right. I'm just a little worried about this stuff being made in PRC with PRC steel and the ratings being a little exaggerated. Add a little inexperience based abuse and I'd feel more comfortable with some extra headroom. If I but 2x rated for what I need, then between misleading PRC rating and my abuse, hopefully I'd still be okay.

For now, I'll just get the u-haul ball. If I ever need a second ball, I'll get the adjustable then.

Thanks guys!

quote:

If I keep to utility trailers from U-haul, will they all be basically the same height -- I'll only really need one ball mount?

Yes, just get it as close to level as you can.
It doesn't have to be exact but it shouldn't be leaning much either way. It's not hard.



Reese Towpower
Class III 2 in. Interlock Starter Kit $24.48 /each

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Re...t-21542RAK/205703854

I went with U-Haul's hitch. No problems. Towing that 6'x12' across country was most liberating.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
You're right. I'm just a little worried about this stuff being made in PRC with PRC steel and the ratings being a little exaggerated.

There was a recall on the weld. Mine was not affected. If you're worried, all the more reason to go with the biggest outfit out there.

I was thinking 18” ball height for uhaul and google confirms it.

Don't worry about the adjustable draw bar. Think to yourself: how many of those have you ever seen on a truck? I'm not saying they're junk, but you either have to have a lot of varying height trailers or several different height tow vehicles.

I had U-Haul do mine. They were fairly priced and assembled the ball and draw bar while I waited. It was nice to be able to take the difference drop heights out to my vehicle to get a visual idea, especially since my Tahoe required a pretty big drop with the factory receiver.

I work for U-Haul. You either need U-Haul part #TS-1, 2" drop or TS-2, 3 1/4" drop. It comes with the pin & clip. Knee high is a good rule of thumb for the ball (16-20"). Better to be a little high since the trailer will push down on the truck when loaded.

I measured from ground to the top of my hitch (with the AHC at "normal" ride height; will be 1-2" lower at highway speed (can't remember exactly what speed it lowers and by how much)). Which actually brings up another question -- should I subtract another 1-2" from the hitch height? Never mind, I checked the manual -- front lowers by 1" in front, 0.5" in rear at speed.

So, if I measured 21.5' at "normal" should I use 20.5" or 19.5" since that's what the ride height will be when doing 55mph? Again, never mind, I'll just keep assuming the height is 21.5" despite AHC based on the manual.

From there, I'll go to U-haul and measure the 5x8 and 5x9 (with ramp) and 6x12 (with ramp) utility trailer coupling heights and decide upon TS1 or TS2.

Looks like I need this light adapter as well: https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSu...r-(Nite-Glow)?Id=720

i would just get a tri ball hitch that way you're covered for the future
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0...bit_scomp_smile_sav0

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:
Reese and Curt are two HUGE names in the hitch biz.

From wall mart.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
From there, I'll go to U-haul and measure the 5x8 and 5x9 (with ramp) and 6x12 (with ramp) utility trailer coupling heights and decide upon TS1 or TS2.

I bought the Class III "Towing Starter Kit 7500 lbs. 3-1/2” Drop". That's a full size truck in the picture. Originally a 4x8 or 5x8 was planned ... in the end, a 6x12 was perfect. I do not remember a ramp on the trailer, but for cross country moves, they give you the brand new stuff.

The guys at U-Haul, they sell this stuff all day long. They'll take one look at your vehicle and know immediately which receiver it takes.

Thanks. I’ll go to u-haul.

Curious - do you know height to the top of your hitch receiver? I’m at 21.5”.

Wow, 45˚ sure feels colder in bare feet than it did when I was 16 years old!

It is 19" to the inside of the top of the receiver. Double-checked the hitch - 3 ½". And that is definitely a 6'x12' trailer. Empty weight 1920 pounds. I figured I loaded 2200# into it - entirely a guess. Front to back entirely full to chest high. Between the 4.8L V8 and the 4L60 set to TOW MODE, the trailer appeared non-existant when merging.

 
You have your receiver hitch (or not). Select a ball mount so your trailer rides roughly level.
 

This thread has been a bit confusing for me and I tow big trailers all the time hopefully so this will help.
1. Your Lexus actually has a decent tow rating at 7K. But I think you are talking very small trailers/small loads. let's assume for the moment that's correct like <3k and no trailer brakes or controller needed. If that changes we need to change the discussion.
2. Just get the correct hitch (drop or rise) and ball size for the trailer you are towing. The adjustable ones mostly suck so just don't do them. Yes that means you will eventually have a collection of hitches if you tow a bunch of different stuff. But don't sweat even a 2" misalignment and remember drop and rise can be had from the same hitch. Don't sweat anything like the change in ride height by the Lexus. Get it right statically and you will be fine. But remember that the torque for the ball install is pretty big so make sure you can do that if you reverse. At this load level simply make sure the mfg. rates the hitch at least as much as the load. The country of mfg. is not an issue. Just about everything will be seriously overbuilt. If you graduate to bigger loads then we can discuss brands. UHaul brand will be fine. A triball hitch that was recommended is useful if you need to attach various ball sizes but it simply won't work for most since the trailers will need rise or drop. Don't pick that.
3. Wiring can be an issue. First you need to see what's stock. From my online look you should have a 7 pin connector. If the trailer has a 4 pin connector (and these small trailers probably will) you need an adapter which you can get anywhere. But once you know what you have and what you need an adapter is just a mere order away as this is completely common as an issue.

Thanks for braving the cold floors, Woodman

Okay - sounds like my truck at 21.5" should be okay with the 3.5" drop U-haul ball mount. Maybe a little high so could probably do with a 4.5" drop if available. I'll take a quick peak on Prime (Curt and Reese).

Stick with a big name like Uhaul, Curt or Reese and I should be gtg.

Yea - I was reading about the 450ft-lb of torque for the nut. I don't have a torque wrench for that (and don't want to speed $400 for one). That makes the U-haul or one that comes with ball installed and pre-torqued more attractive.

I can probably do the 'torque by position' method (7/16" worth of turn from 100ft-lb?) but I'd probably have to use a 4' wrench.

For the wiring harness, I think this will work:
https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSu...r-(Nite-Glow)?Id=720

Any 7 to 4 adapter is fine. The uhaul one is fine but you can get them anywhere.
On the torque situation I wouldn't sweat it too much. If you have any decent setup you can get it tight enough, and then check it occasionally and you will be fine. What's a decent setup? A 3/4" drive ratchet (even craftsmen) with the correct socket will be fine. A 1/2 drive wrench with the correct impact socket that is of a decent length (18") will be fine.
You are not talking anything serious in terms of loads. I would make sure to check that all is still tight after use rather than worry the initial torque. If all you have is smaller tools you need to get help.

on tools I forgot to add, if you have a decent 1/2 air or even decent electric impact that will be fine as well.

3/4" drive. Nope. Impact drive. Nope.

I could buy I guess. But I'm thinking this may be simple and just be good enough.

I'll still need to confirm how much drop is ideal for my car, but based on Woodman's info, I think 4" drop is in the right ballpark.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

if you can't do the mechanics of attaching the ball yourself just buy what you need, either welded as in the link or from someone local who can do it. No adjustment flip on those, but in your circumstance who cares. If I follow this right the difference between 3.5 and 4 is simply not relevant.

I use a B&W adjustable hitch on both my trucks. That way you are ready for anything.