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How strong is JB Weld???? Login/Join 
His diet consists of black
coffee, and sarcasm.
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Ford? This is on your new Expedition?? Confused Makes you wonder what else is rusted.

I don't see filling the hole with glue working. I think it would just shatter and fall out. If the drive hole is completely rounded out, and you have air and an air hammer, about the only thing you can do is try to catch an edge (if any sticks out) of the plug or the inside of the hole and try to "walk" it out with the chisel bit. Sharpen the chisel so it bites in and is less likely to slip out. I'm sure you've been soaking it in penetrant. Do you have an oxy-fuel torch? If the differential case is iron, heat it up until it just starts to glow red. Be very careful if it is aluminum. These plugs are typically a 3/8" pipe thread male plug.
 
Posts: 20908 | Location: Johnson City/Elizabethton, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Oldrider:
It isn't just your Ford that has that problem, tried removing the plug in my Colorado's rear axle last week. No joy. Those plugs are so tight I don't think you could chisel, beat or any other applied force would break it loose. I think it's a real possibility you could crack a housing trying to get it out.
Greymann's second idea actually sounds like a winner. Your differential cover is probably sheet eteel so drilling it out for a bung you could tig-weld on would be very doable.
Thanks for the idea!


The Expedition is an IRS getting the cover off is even more of a giant PITA.


quote:
Originally posted by egregore:
Ford? This is on your new Expedition?? Confused Makes you wonder what else is rusted.

I don't see filling the hole with glue working. I think it would just shatter and fall out. If the drive hole is completely rounded out, and you have air and an air hammer, about the only thing you can do is try to catch an edge (if any sticks out) of the plug or the inside of the hole and try to "walk" it out with the chisel bit. Sharpen the chisel so it bites in and is less likely to slip out. I'm sure you've been soaking it in penetrant. Do you have an oxy-fuel torch? If the differential case is iron, heat it up until it just starts to glow red. Be very careful if it is aluminum. These plugs are typically a 3/8" pipe thread male plug.


No rust the plug is shiney Silver as could be.
I may see if I can hammer a 1/2” breaker in there and heat it up.


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Posts: 19515 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The plug might have been installed with thread locking compound. Try heating it with a torch.
 
Posts: 2827 | Location: MD | Registered: March 23, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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On one of my old vehicles, I knew would be unlikely to make it to another fluid change, I simply drilled a 1/2" hole through one that was rusted solid, tapped the new hole and put in a 1/2" bolt to plug it after. I put a strong magnet on the drill bit and tap to ensure the majority of metal shavings stuck the tool instead of falling inside. Worked like a charm.
 
Posts: 3957 | Location: Boise, ID USA | Registered: February 14, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Forty years ago, I bought a Makita right angle drill to use on my job. Within a week, I dropped it and broke off a hunk of metal from the head, just behind the chuck. I repaired it with JB Weld, molding it into the original shape. I used that drill for another 20 years on the job, and still have it to this day with the original JB Weld patch still firmly in place. I'm not sure how it would hold for your application, applying torque to the spot, but it is pretty good stuff.
 
 
Posts: 8178 | Location: South Congress AZ | Registered: May 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would think carefully before hammering a 1/2 " breaker in. Will that wedge the plug tighter?
 
Posts: 690 | Location: Moved to N.W. MT. | Registered: April 26, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would probably put an extension in and then tap it several times with a hammer. Kind of like an impact gun. the shock may loosen it. After a few taps I would also apply heat.
 
Posts: 4356 | Location: 7400 feet in Conifer CO | Registered: November 14, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Pretty sure it's synthetic, I would leave it alone


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Posts: 1383 | Location: GA | Registered: September 23, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You were smart to try and get the fill plug out first. Had you pulled the drain plug first you'd have had no way to refill the diff. Removing the fill plug first also lets it vent and drain more thoroughly.
quote:
Originally posted by BigSwede:
Pretty sure it's synthetic, I would leave it alone

Big Grin You must not know the OP very well.
 
Posts: 20908 | Location: Johnson City/Elizabethton, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Just because you can,
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JB weld is made to stick things together and has very little compressive strength.
Drive the vehicle for a while to get the diff as warm as possible then maybe some light heat to the area around the plug.
Do not weld on the plug. Also take a large steel hammer and hit it as flat and square as possible against the plug a few times. Then use the cold chisel method and have a new plug and washer.
 
Posts: 4302 | Location: North GA | Registered: August 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by egregore:
You were smart to try and get the fill plug out first. Had you pulled the drain plug first you'd have had no way to refill the diff. Removing the fill plug first also lets it vent and drain more thoroughly.
quote:
Originally posted by BigSwede:
Pretty sure it's synthetic, I would leave it alone

Big Grin You must not know the OP very well.


My Gramps always said don’t drain it until you are sure you can fill it.

BigSwede said “leave it alone” that is a good one Big Grin


Pretty sure Ford uses this thread sealant on their plugs.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlu...rs%20and%20Adhesives

I had zero issues removing the plugs on the transfer case. They had the white goop in the threads too.


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Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards.
Soren Kierkegaard
 
Posts: 19515 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Take it to a mechanic shop or a welder. A welder can weld a piece or bolt on it that you can then get a serious wrench on, or a steel socked extension to it. Or if it's aluminum an aluminum stock that a socket can go and remove that way. Ford uses a thread sealant on them and you have to basically have a very good fitting tool and an impact wrench to take them off the first time.
 
Posts: 16188 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by signewt:
Not the plug but I can vouch for unexpected success slathering ample sheet onto the front corner of an oil pan that had nicked a rock and leaked most of the contents out.

Afternoon pan removal, sort of a thick icing on both sides in & out & thru the remaining crack ub the metal, overnight dry, & that sucker held up for the next 100,000 miles.


Same with a Tacoma transmission pan. Took it off, cleaned it up and got all of the gunk off. The JB Weld held and never failed.

CW
 
Posts: 2957 | Location: Texas | Registered: June 29, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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RED THREAD LOCKER!!!!!!!
That is why the bugger would not come off. Grabbed a new factory plugs today and sure enough RED thread locker. So once I get the fill plug out I will certainly be heating up the drain plug before trying to remove it.

I guess they just use a white thread sealant on the transfer case as it appears to be aluminum vs. iron for the differential.


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Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards.
Soren Kierkegaard
 
Posts: 19515 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
semi-reformed sailor
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quote:
RED THREAD LOCKER!!!!!!!
That is why the bugger would not come off. Grabbed a new factory plugs today and sure enough RED thread locker. So once I get the fill plug out I will certainly be heating up the drain plug before trying to remove it.


They used red because they didn't want you monkeying around with it



"Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.”
― Robert A. Heinlein, Starship Troopers

 
Posts: 5298 | Location: Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by benny6:
I'd hit it with a heat gun or a portable torch. If you still have enough for the breaker bar to grab, try that with the heat. If not, use the chisel.

Tony.

That's what I'd recommend. A little heat goes a long way in a situation like this.
 
Posts: 1228 | Location: WI | Registered: December 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My first thought was "Is JB Weld a weight lifter?" As usual, I was off target.

flashguy




Texan by choice, not accident of birth

When they ask me, "Paper or plastic?" I just say, "Doesn't matter to me. I am bi-sacksual."
 
Posts: 20453 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: May 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The lubricant in the Ford axles is high quality. It is tested for far more abuse than you can ever imagine. I have personally tested the axle lubricant in NW Arizona in a Ford pickup employing their test method and we wore out three transmissions and about seven sets of tires before the full test duration was complete. Although changing the lubricant is going to give your vehicle extended life, it is quite well designed and validated for the expected vehicle life.


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Posts: 2884 | Location: Commonwealth of Virginia | Registered: January 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
The lubricant in the Ford axles is high quality. It is tested for far more abuse than you can ever imagine. I have personally tested the axle lubricant in NW Arizona in a Ford pickup employing their test method and we wore out three transmissions and about seven sets of tires before the full test duration was complete. Although changing the lubricant is going to give your vehicle extended life, it is quite well designed and validated for the expected vehicle life.


It is also inexpensive. Cheap insurance. I prefer to change at 50k instead of 100k.
Like to be sure no water has gotten in as well.


--------------------------------------
Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards.
Soren Kierkegaard
 
Posts: 19515 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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