Seems like Ford likes to use the softest metal fill and drain plugs possible in their differentials.
The plug utilizes a 3/8” square opening. So in theory you pop your 3/8” breaker bar in there and voila out comes the plug.
Nope, nope, and nope. The opening starts to get buggered up before the plug breaks loose.

So say I were to fill the opening with JB Weld hammer on a 1/2” to 3/8” impact adapter let the JB Weld set and then pop that sucker with an impact gun??

Don’t have a welder or I’d likely just weld a nut on the plug.

I think it would extrude out as you applied torque. I would go the ol' walk it out with a chisel method.

Get on the edge with your cold chesel and tap it out counter clockwise... Hopefully.

Wouldn't it be easier to just replace the plug and properly torque it next time around? A drain plug should not be smoked on there. Under 20 ft/lb would probably suffice and if it's torqued properly, removing it shouldn't be a problem.

It will shatter from the impact gun/drive.

Use a chisel and replace the plug when done

quote:

Originally posted by drabfour:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn...igshid=18i0o16jyaizc

Idiots

quote:

Originally posted by AirmanJeff:
Wouldn't it be easier to just replace the plug and properly torque it next time around? A drain plug should not be smoked on there. Under 20 ft/lb would probably suffice and if it's torqued properly, removing it shouldn't be a problem.

That is the plan but I have to actually get it out first.
I soaked the bastard in PB blaster for quite awhile too and it won’t budge.

Could Someone please explain a little more or point me to a good example of this chisel method.

EZ Out

Try using a chisel to get it moving or leave it alone and get a cover with fill plug.

quote:

Originally posted by Black9
I soaked the bastard in PB blaster for quite awhile too and it won’t budge.

I’ve had better luck with Kano Kroil. Get a can of compressed air and blow it around the plug before and after you apply, hoping to work some of that into the threads. Soak it with the Kroil. It’s not failed me yet.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by AirmanJeff:
Wouldn't it be easier to just replace the plug and properly torque it next time around? A drain plug should not be smoked on there. Under 20 ft/lb would probably suffice and if it's torqued properly, removing it shouldn't be a problem.

That is the plan but I have to actually get it out first.
I soaked the bastard in PB blaster for quite awhile too and it won’t budge.

Could Someone please explain a little more or point me to a good example of this chisel method.

Gotcha. I vote nipple extractor method.

Pb blaster kinda sucks.. a YouTuber did a pretty good test and found that liquid wrench and even wd40 worked better. Can’t remember the channel name but the guy does a lot of lawn mower engine vids. And I’d go invest in an air chisel and walk that thing out. Try the kroil too. And the last thing you’d want to do is weld right there.. you’d likely start a fire.

“I vote nipple extractor method.“

Kinky

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

Could Someone please explain a little more or point me to a good example of this chisel method.

I've not had to do this, but I did find this on YouTube - Chisel method starts at 4:27:



Link to original video: https://youtu.be/hFnOejt3VIU?t=4m27s

Not the plug but I can vouch for unexpected success slathering ample sheet onto the front corner of an oil pan that had nicked a rock and leaked most of the contents out.

Afternoon pan removal, sort of a thick icing on both sides in & out & thru the remaining crack ub the metal, overnight dry, & that sucker held up for the next 100,000 miles.

Get a cold chisel, or even a wood chisel you don't mind buggering up. Find a spot on the outer diameter that affords you some room to work. With a hammer get the chisel dug in (a good firm bite into the plug). Tap the chisel at an angle shallow enough to begin backing out the plug. Once it rotates few degrees, you can stick you 3/8 drive back in there and back it out fully.

Get a replacement plug and crush washer beforehand.

I’d put the chisel in the opening crossways get on it with a vice grip. Add heat and hammer taps as needed

I'd hit it with a heat gun or a portable torch. If you still have enough for the breaker bar to grab, try that with the heat. If not, use the chisel.

Tony.

It isn't just your Ford that has that problem, tried removing the plug in my Colorado's rear axle last week. No joy. Those plugs are so tight I don't think you could chisel, beat or any other applied force would break it loose. I think it's a real possibility you could crack a housing trying to get it out.
Greymann's second idea actually sounds like a winner. Your differential cover is probably sheet eteel so drilling it out for a bung you could tig-weld on would be very doable.
Thanks for the idea!

Ford? This is on your new Expedition?? Makes you wonder what else is rusted.

I don't see filling the hole with glue working. I think it would just shatter and fall out. If the drive hole is completely rounded out, and you have air and an air hammer, about the only thing you can do is try to catch an edge (if any sticks out) of the plug or the inside of the hole and try to "walk" it out with the chisel bit. Sharpen the chisel so it bites in and is less likely to slip out. I'm sure you've been soaking it in penetrant. Do you have an oxy-fuel torch? If the differential case is iron, heat it up until it just starts to glow red. Be very careful if it is aluminum. These plugs are typically a 3/8" pipe thread male plug.