Does anybody have experience with this stuff? I'd heard of it before, but seriously considering it now. We have a glass black door and some windows on either side of our front door that have always concerned me. It's not *that* expensive. $350 is the minimum job, that would cover what I mentioned plus a couple of other windows.

https://solarx.com/client-info...urity-window-videos/

Jimmy123 should chime in soon. He lives in hurricane area.

When tinting residential home windows you have to make sure the windows are ok to tint. Some of the low E double pain energy windows don't take well to being tinted. Sometimes the tint makes the window actually to hot. Resulting in a seal failure or broken glass. You also need to know if the window should be tinted on the inside or outside. Pending window if you tint wrong side it won't help you. And some of the most recent windows actually block more heat than any tint can do.

This is only on the low E double pain windows. So do your research if this applies to your application.

I should have made myself clearer, if I didn't in the OP. My hope is to "harden" the windows mentioned more than keep out heat.

Thanks!

Your glass door and the flanking windows should all be tempered glass (per code) so any thermal stress from excess heating due to the film is not likely to occur (thermal stress cracking generally only happens to annealed or heat strengthened glass that has edge defects. The tempering process itself will break the glass in the tempering oven if it has edge defects). I would check on exactly what the safety test that was done on the film. There are very specific ASTM test protocols for forced entry, missile impact, and human (soft) impact. I would ask what tests and what level of performance was achieved.

Most of these films require a structural bond (structural silicone) around the perimeter to be affective and achieve the tested performance level. Some films actually require a mechanical connection around the perimeter for severe hurricane and high level forced entry protection. I would be very sure about what was the actual tested configuration. Ask for a copy of the test report if you can.

I did check the Miami-Dade website and the 3M films have an expired (aug 2016) certification for small missile impact window security film. NOA 11-0302.02. Missile impact is ASTM E1886 & E1996. I couldn't find anything on Floridabuilding.org for product approvals. Texas also has product approvals but I don't think they cover window films (not sure since I only do windows & doors)

Ken

PS - I have been doing window and door design, testing and certification for the last 20 years so if you have specific questions you can always PM me. But I forewarn you the tech side of this stuff can get pretty dull and full of acronyms.

Wow, good thing I asked here. Thank y'all for all the input! I'm scheduled for a free consult next Wednesday, I'll be armed with some good questions now.

The double pane replacement windows I put in my last house had a printed warning message that came with them. Said to not put window tint film on them. It would void the warranty, due to increased risk of seal failure. (The seal between the panes)

I have this very thing on my first floor windows and french doors. Had the stuff professionally installed, and they did have to secure it around the perimeter in order for it to be effective.

I don't really expect much from it, but my thought is that between the film on the door slowing down a potential intruder, and the dogs I have in the house who bark, I would hopefully buy myself enough time to awaken and get to the bedside welcome kit.

This is my intent also, Slabsides. The place has a monitored alarm, cameras and a German Shepherd. Anything to add a layer or slow down an intruder is what I'm after.

Harden them as in for security? Well, if just the glass is tinted, when broken via an impact or attempted break in, the window shatters and the entire window and film falls right in. Unless the window film extends beyond the glass and can stick to the frame, and it sticks to the frame, the only thing the tinting does is help the shattered glass from going all over.

I have an Andersen security storm with 3 point locking mechanism and I paid extra for the laminated safety glass. It's a PITA to break through. I wanted it tinted so I could lock it, but leave the main door open when I'm expecting company. Being tinted, you cannot see through it in the daytime hours. So when solicitors ring the bell, ignore the no soliciting sign, I open the door to see who it is then shut it immediately. They can hear the door being opened and shut but never see anything.

I used this shop in Dallas. Excellent work and they came highly recommended.
http://www.amersol.co/?scid=10...ages=1&rl_retarget=1

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Harden them as in for security? Well, if just the glass is tinted, when broken via an impact or attempted break in, the window shatters and the entire window and film falls right in. Unless the window film extends beyond the glass and can stick to the frame, and it sticks to the frame, the only thing the tinting does is help the shattered glass from going all over.

That doesn't seem logical. The window is not broken by the blow where it meets the frame... how / why would it fall right in?

Can you link a video showing this happening? That's kinda like saying if you broke your femur your leg would fall off...

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Dryfly let us know how it goes. I have been interested in this for my house.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Harden them as in for security? Well, if just the glass is tinted, when broken via an impact or attempted break in, the window shatters and the entire window and film falls right in. Unless the window film extends beyond the glass and can stick to the frame, and it sticks to the frame, the only thing the tinting does is help the shattered glass from going all over.

That is exactly why it's important to do a proper install. When they installed mine, they had a specific "caulk" that ran around the edge of the window after they applied the 3M product. This effectively bonded it to the borders of each individual pane of glass.

Videos of the product being hit with a hammer show that the product does fail, but depending on the manner in which it's struck, it can hold up to a minute or so (been a bit since I focused on this, so I forget). If they're breaking in with nobody home, 60 seconds means very little, but I think we'd agree that, given almost a minute to prepare for an intruder, one could effectively lock and load.

I have read numerous times that being awakened from a dead sleep takes most people several seconds to realize what is happening, so the only reason I installed it was to gain some of that precious time back.

I suck at embedding videos, but here are 3 that show some of the benefits.
Some are more melodramatic than others, but you get the idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96x2tO9Xuxw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tg8AvttC46M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Maph1a2qFf4

We just had some windows done. It's worth getting a quote from an installer. As it turned out, we got a perfect job, with forever warranty, for about the same cost that the film would have been to us, retail.

quote:

Originally posted by Sig209:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Harden them as in for security? Well, if just the glass is tinted, when broken via an impact or attempted break in, the window shatters and the entire window and film falls right in. Unless the window film extends beyond the glass and can stick to the frame, and it sticks to the frame, the only thing the tinting does is help the shattered glass from going all over.

That doesn't seem logical. The window is not broken by the blow where it meets the frame... how / why would it fall right in?

Can you link a video showing this happening? That's kinda like saying if you broke your femur your leg would fall off...

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If the film is not adhered to the frame with a good strong bond, when the window is broken the only thing the film will do is keep the glass from going everywhere and actually quiet the breakage a good bit, then the film and broken window pieces will fall right out of the frame because the film itself has to be attached to the frame strongly to do it's job. The film is only as good as it's adhesion to the window frame.

They also have hurricane proof screen now, my neighbor did it, it's about a 1" aluminum frame that bolts to the house itself just outside of the window opening and the screen is rated to stop a 2x4" at 150 mph....but it darkens the house inside and also could be cut with a knife.

I went the better route with an impact door which has locking hinges so even if you pull the pins, the door cannot be taken off unless it is first opened. I also went with PGT impact windows which latch a lot more securely than most windows and will stop a 2x4" at 150mph (I think that's the Dade County standard), but instead upgraded the 5/16" glass to 7/16" glass which is 50% thicker and even stronger. The windows also seal a heck of a lot better making the house more energy efficient and a lot quieter.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
.... I also went with PGT impact windows which latch a lot more securely than most windows and will stop a 2x4" at 150mph (I think that's the Dade County standard), but instead upgraded the 5/16" glass to 7/16" glass which is 50% thicker and even stronger. The windows also seal a heck of a lot better making the house more energy efficient and a lot quieter.

The Florida Building Code specifies TAS 201, TAS 202, & TAS 203 missile impact testing for HVHZ or wind-borne debris regions, ASTM E1886 & E1996 are missile impact specs for Wind-Borne debris regions only (and the standard in all other building codes based on the IBC). This is a 9# 2X4 traveling at 50 ft/sec. (34 mph) They also have an enhanced missile for the HVHZ zone (Dade & Broward county) which is 9# 2X4 going 80 ft/sec (55 mph). PGT makes a very nice product (almost went to work for them many years ago).

Ken S.

PS - for Tornado testing, the ICC500 / FEMA 361 criteria is typically used and that has a max of a 15# 2X4 going 147 ft/sec (100 mph)

I think just want to have and be able to say that my windows are "Missile Resistant".

The link I provided in the OP has several videos of what I'm trying to achieve. Sure the glass breaks, but it takes several HARD blows to finish knocking it in. Watch the "Break In Entry Test" video. They will be here in the AM to give me the scoop.