SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Carpenters and handy folks, lend me your ears UPDATE with Stain question
Page 1 2 

Moderators: Chris Orndorff, LDD
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Carpenters and handy folks, lend me your ears UPDATE with Stain question Login/Join 
Ice age heat wave,
cant complain.
Picture of MikeGLI
posted
The stairs in my townhouse are carpeted and I plan to remove the carpet. Obviously this is not the ideal material to just "refinish" so I plan to either remove the treads and risers or possibly to an overlay type situation. Before I go ripping shit out, what do I need to know about working with stairs? I'm fairly handy and have all the associated saws and tools to cut and install the materials but this is my first stair refurb. My simple brain tells me to remove each tread and riser, measure/cut/install new, rinse repeat. Are there any secrets like working top down or bottom up? Do I need to leave a small gap for expansion like with wood floor or do I cut it tight and caulk the joints?

The existing tread is a 2x12 (ripped down to 2x11) and I'm not sure about the risers. I'd like to stain the treads and likely paint everything else. See pic of existing circumstances.


This message has been edited. Last edited by: MikeGLI,




NRA Life Member
 
Posts: 8423 | Location: Orlando, Florida | Registered: July 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Unmanned Writer
Picture of LS1 GTO
posted Hide Post
We just sanded ours down and put a couple coats of staining urethane on them.

They look great, are not slick, and a lot easier to clean.







Sentiment without action is the ruin of the soul.


Help, I'm having premonitions of future flashbacks.

Only in an insane world are the sane considered insane.

Some people listen to the noise of the world,
And some people listen to the quiet.
 
Posts: 9786 | Location: It was Lat: 33.xxxx Lon: 44.xxxx now it's CA :( | Registered: March 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Chance favors only
the prepared mind.
Picture of Dad250
posted Hide Post
I had a similar idea - after I pulled the millions of staples and carpet off mine looked like yours do. I decided to scrape,sand and then fill/patch, sand, then applied many coats of Kilz then top coated with quality white paint. I finished the project with a runner top to bottom.

I like the outcome - however over time the pine knots have emerged thru the Kilz.

At the time I looked into replacing the treads and kicks with veneer solutions eg https://www.lowes.com/pl/Tread...-supplies/4294512345 - pretty costly proposition - Still in retrospec - pay once cry once.


SIG P229 9mm
Springfield Armory XD-9 9mm

AUT PAX, AUT BELLUM

SI VIS PACEM, PARA BELLUM
 
Posts: 534 | Registered: January 05, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ice age heat wave,
cant complain.
Picture of MikeGLI
posted Hide Post
Dad250,

I'd be open to reusing the existing, even if they looked weathered but when the stairs were initially installed, i'm pretty sure they knew the stairs would be covered by carpet because the cuts are sloppy and the fit and finish leave a lot to be desired.




NRA Life Member
 
Posts: 8423 | Location: Orlando, Florida | Registered: July 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Shit don't
mean shit
posted Hide Post
I did this a few years ago. 13 steps plus a landing. Lowe's and HD sell oak treads. You just trim to length. For risers, I used a piece of 1/4" 4' X 8' oak veneer plywood. I used regular red oak for the landing. Looks great. I stained everything, although I know most folks paint the risers. I also replaced the newel posts, balusters and handrails. I can post pics if you're interested in seeing them.
 
Posts: 4424 | Location: 7400 feet in Conifer CO | Registered: November 14, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ice age heat wave,
cant complain.
Picture of MikeGLI
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 1967Goat:
I did this a few years ago. 13 steps plus a landing. Lowe's and HD sell oak treads. You just trim to length. For risers, I used a piece of 1/4" 4' X 8' oak veneer plywood. I used regular red oak for the landing. Looks great. I stained everything, although I know most folks paint the risers. I also replaced the newel posts, balusters and handrails. I can post pics if you're interested in seeing them.


Please.




NRA Life Member
 
Posts: 8423 | Location: Orlando, Florida | Registered: July 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Avoiding
slam fires
Picture of 45 Cal
posted Hide Post
This was new construction and I have installed many.
Start at bottom.
New construction you put the riser boards on first.
This was usually clear fur or white wood.
I there was to be carpet it was yellow pine for steps and risers.
Better homes had #1 oak and were stained with risers panted most times.

Both types of treads come too wide and the back must be trimmed off about 3/4 inch to blend and not hang over the from to be a toe grabber.
 
Posts: 21644 | Location: Georgia | Registered: February 19, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Striker in waiting
Picture of BurtonRW
posted Hide Post
I'm thinking Line-X, but you might want to get the Mrs.' input on that first.

It does come in all sorts of pretty colors these days.

-Rob




I predict that there will be many suggestions and statements about the law made here, and some of them will be spectacularly wrong. - jhe888

A=A
 
Posts: 14889 | Location: Maryland, AA Co. | Registered: March 16, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
I'd consider the middle ground of adding stained oak treads and painting the risers.




“People have to really suffer before they can risk doing what they love.” –Chuck Palahnuik

The world's a dangerous place, we can help! http://portlandfirearmtraining.com/
 
Posts: 3782 | Location: Oregon | Registered: October 02, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Shit don't
mean shit
posted Hide Post
Mine was a little more complicated than just replacing the risers and treads. I removed a partition on the main level, and also a half wall at the landing. I also replaced all the railings and did a ton of trim work to tie it all together. For some reason I can't seem to find picture with the balusters and everything stained.

Removed a partition on main level, and the Sheetrock from the landing area. This will all be opened up.



Railings and carpet ripped up. Plain pine treads.



1 tread installed.



Treads installed on bottom set of steps.



Risers installed. Made from 1/4" oak veneer plywood.



Almost completed, but not fully stained. Balusters not installed on the stairs yet.
 
Posts: 4424 | Location: 7400 feet in Conifer CO | Registered: November 14, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Depending on how your stairs are constructed you’ll have two options. The first option is to simply replace the stair tread which is by far the best and most economical option. Remember, since all stairs should be evenly spaced, you usually can’t add 3/4” or more to an existing tread tread with a new board, otherwise your first and last steps are off. If that doesn’t work, and your staircases are prefab assemblies (so that you would have to demo out the whole staircase to replace the treads) check out the website www.eztread.com. All you do is cut your existing tread nose flush with the riser, install a thin finished riser, and install this tread over top. They can match stains to existing wood floors (like a landing or adjacent floor).
 
Posts: 297 | Location: Ohio | Registered: September 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
I just have to say that looks awesome 1967Goat.
 
Posts: 491 | Location: Pearland, Tx | Registered: June 22, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Don't Panic
Picture of joel9507
posted Hide Post
I don't know how to accomplish it, but please consider slickness/traction in your finishing choices.

We have stained hardwood staircases, and they are very slippery. Beautiful, yes - that is they were till I had to put adhesive grip strips on them after some slips. Now they are mostly-beautiful with some grey sandpaper like stripes.

I would have to bet starting from scratch, that there are better solutions than putting on grip strips as an afterthought.
 
Posts: 12190 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: October 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ice age heat wave,
cant complain.
Picture of MikeGLI
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by absolut18:
www.eztread.com. All you do is cut your existing tread nose flush with the riser, install a thin finished riser, and install this tread over top. They can match stains to existing wood floors (like a landing or adjacent floor).


This may be the ticket. I may replace a tread or two because I'm assuming some of them have cupped over the years, but I can easily rip the tread nose off to square it up with the riser. I like this idea more than pulling everything out and starting from scratch.




NRA Life Member
 
Posts: 8423 | Location: Orlando, Florida | Registered: July 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ice age heat wave,
cant complain.
Picture of MikeGLI
posted Hide Post
Well, several of the treads are cupped (front to back) and i'm sure if looked hard enough, I'd want to replace all of them...I pulled all the carpet, pad, and tack strip. Staples are a pain in the ass.





NRA Life Member
 
Posts: 8423 | Location: Orlando, Florida | Registered: July 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of BigWhup
posted Hide Post
Last year we refurbished a lot of the house including the back stairwell carpet removal. I removed all the staples, sanded everything down, painted the risers white, and had my floor refinisher guys stain the pine treads to match the red oak landings. Looks beautiful.

In order to overcome the slick issue and to add protection and longevity. we purchase the lay on carpet treads that adhere on their own, yet are easily removed and re-positioned.

Got the carpet tread here and I highly recommend.

http://www.deanstairtreads.com...rs&utm_content=Brand
 
Posts: 1242 | Location: South Carolina | Registered: August 06, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ice age heat wave,
cant complain.
Picture of MikeGLI
posted Hide Post
UPDATE: I'm going to replace the existing treads with 2x12 pine since most of them are cupped and I'm looking at making new treads out of 1x12 oak. I can't put my hands on any of the prefab treads/risers locally so it looks like I'll be making them.

I'll document the process.




NRA Life Member
 
Posts: 8423 | Location: Orlando, Florida | Registered: July 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
member
Picture of henryaz
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by MikeGLI:
UPDATE: I'm going to replace the existing treads with 2x12 pine since most of them are cupped and I'm looking at making new treads out of 1x12 oak. I can't put my hands on any of the prefab treads/risers locally so it looks like I'll be making them.

I'll document the process.

5/4" is the old millwork standard for treads, either oak or yellow pine, with a bullnose edge.
 
 
Posts: 8348 | Location: South Congress AZ | Registered: May 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Treads can be made of 2x lumber if you need or want to be economical. I used a router bit, 1/4 round that had a 3/4" radius. That rounds over the tread nose. You have to make two passes, one on the top side, one on the bottom. Sanded and stained they come out pretty nice. Looks professional, just in pine.
 
Posts: 1314 | Location: south central Pennsylvania | Registered: November 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
member
Picture of henryaz
posted Hide Post
 
Home Depot carries 5/4" x 12" x 36" southern yellow pine treads, already bullnosed. Southern YP is some hard stuff.
 
Link.
 
 
Posts: 8348 | Location: South Congress AZ | Registered: May 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata Page 1 2  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Carpenters and handy folks, lend me your ears UPDATE with Stain question

© SIGforum 2018