quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
You drill a hole.

...bigger than the size of the bill you're using.

Also bigger than the bit you’re using. Otherwise the bill could be quite large.

Ah, a router thread ***pauses to look at the back of my left thumb***

Just remember, a router removes material, it doesn't cut. I can attest to the fact that you won't feel the bit make contact when it's spinning at ~30k RPM's, but you will know that something isn't right. Stupid mistake on my part, could have been much worse. Respect the router

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:

quote:

Originally posted by Leemur:
I’m guessing if you have a fixed and you try to start in the middle of the material you risk injury or launching the tool across the room...?

You drill a hole.

Saw a guy do that in a video and felt like an idiot for missing the obvious. Derp.

when you finally get the feel oF it you can climb cut on your first pass and regular cut on your finish pass this works great on wood that splinters easily, on my shapers and cnc I climb cut almost everything but these are stationary machines. I don't recommend it until you are very familiar with the hand held.

You tube Dave wood working for making signs and art

quote:

Originally posted by sjtill:
Also bigger than the bit you’re using. Otherwise the bill could be quite large.

Have I mentioned lately how much I loathe auto-correct on my cellphone.

While a little more money, I'd get a multi-base router kit; these kits come come with the motor and a plunge base AND fixed base. A little more money up front but you have the option to set the router up to do what you want safely

leemur, let us know if you ever find a project that requires the plunge base. Looking back, I never did. You will soon get tired of changing and adjusting router bits. Makes ya wanna buy another one. And then a specialty one, and then... Enjoy the wonderful world of routers.

Be safe and stay away from radial arm saws, joiners, and band saws. Can't lose the trigger finger!

quote:

Originally posted by cne32507:
leemur, let us know if you ever find a project that requires the plunge base. Looking back, I never did. You will soon get tired of changing and adjusting router bits. Makes ya wanna buy another one. And then a specialty one, and then... Enjoy the wonderful world of routers.

Be safe and stay away from radial arm saws, joiners, and band saws. Can't lose the trigger finger!

I’m hoping I don’t let Sigforum cost me as much in woodworking tools as it has in guns, ammo, knives, etc.

Any brand of bits I should absolutely avoid? I’d like to get some cheap (price) ones to play with before getting any really good ones if that’s possible without being dangerous.

Here’s a set of 80 1/4 inch shank router bits at HD for $140. That’s < $2 a bit.
Undoubtedly poorer quality than Whiteside, Amanda, or Freud, but should be good for a starter kit.

Freud, CMT and Whiteside bits are awesome. Never had a problem. Rockler and Woodhaven are good sources.

Keep your bits free of resin build up and sharp if you are not using carbide tipped.

Some bits have ball bearing on them which really comes in handy. Depending on your need the bearings ca be at the top or the bottm of the bit.

1/4 inch bits will "wobble" a bit. 1/2 bits are stronger. My routers have collets for each size.

Also, there are bit that are spiraled; some cut up some cut down depending on your need.

The grain of the wood is important to know where to start an edge cut to avoid splintering.

You can also plunge cut if you have a router table. Its easier than drilling a hole and using a mounted guide or using a straight edge, especially if you have multiple pieces to do.

A friend told me that he cleans his bits with a soft bristle toothbrush, puts a thin film of 3 in 1 oil on them and wraps them in a paper shop towel. Any opinions on that?

Also, knocked out this quick n dirty dog barrier for our cat gate so one mutt would stop eating all the cat food and cleaning the litter box.

Ok so the bug has a firm grip on me already. What router tables are good bang for your buck?

Looks good, Leemur!!
I feel much more comfortable using a smaller router. I have a larger Festool 1400, but when I bought and used the smaller 1010 it seemed just perfect. It’s about the size of your DeWalt. I agree about the good brands for bits: Whiteside, Amana, Freud, CMT are tops.
For cleaning, I use Boeshield Blade and Bit.

Router tables are a big topic. You can buy an inexpensive Porter-Cable or Bosch table at Lowe’s that will get you started.
I can’t access Lowes.com right now for some reason.

Here’s a nice relatively inexpensive Kreg router table for $250 from Amazon:
Kreg router table

quote:

Originally posted by sjtill:
I feel much more comfortable using a smaller router.

Now that I am no longer in the woodworking/millwork trade, I use a Bosch palm router. It is more than sufficient for my home DIY needs, and has some nice adjustment features, and an included fence. Its size makes it very comfortable to use. Though it has a fixed base, I do plunge routing with it with no problem, but that is due to years of experience doing the same thing with a full sized router. I would not recommend plunge routing with a fixed base router to someone without that experience. I can also freehand with it fairly well, much easier than I could do with a full-sized router.

Bosch makes a nice bench top router table.
The Kreg is also nice. I think they make a floor model as well.

If you notice the Kreg table top version has a plate that holds the router. You will need to drill it out to fit your router. If for some reason you ever need a new plate make sure its aluminum not plastic.

Now lets talk about side mount router tables!

Make your own damn router table!

1) All shops should have a steel 55-gallon drum for trash.
2) Use the drum for a router table stand
3) Get a sink cutout from a top-shop for a router table top
4) Screw 3 blocks to the bottom to keep it in place. No sliding!
5) Buy an extra fixed base and remove the plastic bottom plate
6) Think about where on the table the router should be and drill/cut a 1-1/2" hole.
7) Use screws to attach router base. countersink the heads.
8) Mount a 1x2 with a 1/2-moon cutout for a fence: one end pivot, other end adjusts and locks down
9) Move $200 from left pocket to right.
Leave the base attached to the table top: just slide out the router

You're welcome