Hobby level, complete amateur so the highest dollar commercial grade stuff is out of the question. I’ve seen models referred to as plunge and fixed base. What’s the difference? Last time I used one was 7th grade in a shop class. Speak as if you’re addressing a total moron cause it’s true.

Plunge routers can plunge into the middle of a board. They normally have springs on two opposing sides and allow you to push the bit into the wood. Fixed router is just that, fixed. I have a Bosch router that has a plunge base and a fixed base.

What type of router projects do you have in mind?

Based on that we can better evaluate what size of router you need.

Are you planning on primarily using it freehand? Any plans for using it in a router table later?

A lot depends on the type of work you are doing.
I have three routers for woodworking.
A lightweight Milwaukee M18 cordless.
A standard/HD unit DeWalt unit in my router table.
A Bosch plunge Router that I use for dovetails and other heavy duty projects.
I do use the Milwaukee a LOT for edges etc but it will not work with the proper dovetail bits in the dovetail jig.
I don't use the plunge feature really much at all in the Bosch.
Using the lighter Milwaukee is preferred if the project allows.

Routers come in so many different styles that it’s impossible to answer your question without some more detail.

You want the right tool for the right job. So the question would be, why do you want a router? What are you trying to accomplish? And then we can help narrow it down.

At the heart of it, a router is just a motor that turns a collet. You place various shapes cutting heads (bits) in the collet.

The motor might be mounted to a stationary table or a hand held base. Some hand bases have a mechanism to adjust the depth of the cut in real-time as you are using it, which allows you to lower the bit into the wood (plunge cut).

Router motors come in a myriad of shapes, sizes, and horsepower.

A router they is too small won’t have the power to cut large profiles in oak (cabinet trim, or baseboard). A router that is too large is heavy and very hard to handle when doing edge work.

For the homeowner hobbyist, a porter cable plunge/fixed combo and a small palm router will do pretty much everything.

I got a small Dewalt as a Black Friday special. Does everything I need. Sales will be coming up. It has plenty of power for the handheld.

I know I have a fixed base but the plunge adaptor is available too.

The bits are where you start racking up some $$$. I have a few Skil branded sets that got a lot of what I need for a lower packaged price.

To start it’ll just be for craft type hobby lightweight use. No need for something that’ll grind out rock solid hardwood. A router table would be overkill at this point as well. Handheld, lightweight, see if I even enjoy or have the skill to do anything besides ruin wood.

So if you don’t have the plunge type you have to start on an edge? Fixed base doesn’t allow for depth adjustments?

quote:

Originally posted by Leemur:
So if you don’t have the plunge type you have to start on an edge? Fixed base doesn’t allow for depth adjustments?

Correct.

I’m guessing if you have a fixed and you try to start in the middle of the material you risk injury or launching the tool across the room...?

quote:

Originally posted by Leemur:
I’m guessing if you have a fixed and you try to start in the middle of the material you risk injury or launching the tool across the room...?

Well, yes, there is that, but there's also the question of how you'd cleanly start in the middle with no way to drop the router in any kind of controlled manner?

I understand you want to start out as economically as possible, but if you want or need plunge capability I'm afraid there's no way around paying for plunge capability.

I won't even get started on the inadvisability of purchasing "economical" router bits.

I’m just trying to get the info straight in my head before I commit to anything. An extra $40-50 isn’t a deal breaker, I just don’t want to buy a Ferrari when a base Mustang will get me there.

If you want to be able to start work in the middle of a work piece you need a plunge router. Period.

If you're going to want to be able to do precise plunges you're going to need a "micro" or "precision" plunge router.

In general terms...

If you're only going to work with softwoods you probably don't need a particularly large or powerful router.

In fact large, powerful routers have a downside: Being larger and more powerful, they're harder to handle.

Conversely: If you go too under-powered for the work you want to do you can drag the bit speed down--producing ragged cuts and even burning the work piece and router bit.

Generally: The larger the diameter of the bits you want to use, and the denser/harder the wood, the more power needed.

Cheap bits will produce more tear-out, will dull more quickly, and will be more likely to burn the work piece.

Ok so based on everything I’ve seen I’m going plunge. Thanks. A few places I’m reading say overall best is about a 2hp motor. Sound about right?

A fixed base can be set for depth. It is a set then use type adjustment.

There are kits with both fixed and plunge options like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DE...t-DW618PKB/301664695

quote:

Originally posted by Leemur:
I’m just trying to get the info straight in my head before I commit to anything. An extra $40-50 isn’t a deal breaker, I just don’t want to buy a Ferrari when a base Mustang will get me there.

And what would a "Ferrari" router look like?

If you gather the info from multiple sources above you have three types:

1. Small(er) lighter routers sometimes called a laminate, or palm router. Most cordless are of similar power.
2. Standard size router with more horsepower.
3. One similar to no. 2 above with plunging capabilities.


It really depends on the type of work you are doing but all are pretty similar and the prices don't vary all that much from low to high.
Not all that complicated to figure out.

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:

And what would a "Ferrari" router look like?

Let me introduce you to Festool.

quote:

Originally posted by fwbulldog:

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:

And what would a "Ferrari" router look like?

Let me introduce you to Festool.

Ahh yessss .... very nice stuff

I have 21 routers plus a cnc router, for me the porter cable 691 have been outstanding.

so many variables to this question.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:

quote:

Originally posted by Leemur:
I’m guessing if you have a fixed and you try to start in the middle of the material you risk injury or launching the tool across the room...?

Well, yes, there is that, but there's also the question of how you'd cleanly start in the middle with no way to drop the router in any kind of controlled manner?

Not really. I have a M18 fixed base Milwaukee router I use for inlay work a lot of times (bowties primarily), and I rock the bit down into the material. It's a learned skill, but it certainly can be done without issue.

Hey Leemur, do you have any cordless tools? If yes, you might consider looking for a small cordless router made by that manufacturer.

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:
I have 21 routers plus a cnc router, for me the porter cable 691 have been outstanding.

so many variables to this question.

Show off! Interesting you mentioned the PC 691. I have its predecessor, the 690, and it came as a kit with both a fixed and plunge base. I primarily use it today with just the fixed base given I have other plunge router options, but when starting out, it was a very nice option to have both bases.