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The previous owner of my deck I'm replacing attached the load bearing ledger board the brick facing of the house, which is a big no-no. Now I'm left with a bunch of lead-anchored 9/16 lag screw holes I need to fill. So, what should I fill these holes with, and should I remove the lead anchors before filling them ? I called Quickrete and they said to use Quickrete mortar patch, you mix it with water and apply. Problem is, I need to fill the hole the entire width of the brick mortar joint, which is around 3 to 4 inches. I asked the dude how to fill these deep narrow holes with the stiff mortar, he had no answer. I asked him if Quickrete had any product that could be squeezed out of a tube or something along those lines, he said no. So, how can I fill these holes, and should I leave the lead anchors in, or dig them out before patching ? Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | ||
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Sika. __________________________________ An operator is someone who picks up the phone when I dial 0. | |||
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Me personally I'd ignore the anchor and use one of the newer two part epoxy patch systems (I use Sampson). Mortar is fine but is a PIA but you can easily make a consistency to fill anything. If access is not a future issue any good sealant would be fine but lifecycle will not be as good as the brick. something like a one-part urethane sealant will be fine. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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I used their self-leveling sealer for expansion joints on my concrete my pool deck. I didn't know they had something for vertical applications. I'll give them a call. Thanks. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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As a builder I would also reccomend Sikaflex... https://www.amazon.com/Sikafle...ds=sikaflex+221+gray And I would remove the bolts if you can. One misconception about brick is that it is impervious to moisture and in fact nothing is further from the truth. Brick actually absorbs moisture quite readily and there should be a gap between the back of the brick and the sheathing of the house to allow moisture to drain. At the base of the wall there should be weep holes to allow for this. One question I have for you is how you are attaching the new deck now?? ------------------ Eddie Our Founding Fathers were men who understood that the right thing is not necessarily the written thing. -kkina | |||
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Nosce te ipsum |
The short answer, mix up a few handfuls of mortar mix in a small bucket. You should be able to make a "snowball" with it at the right stiffness. Wait 10 minutes. Mix it again, then stuff it into the holes. Use a piece of wood, like a pencil, to jam it in tight. Smear it flush with your (nitrile-gloved) hand. Filled the entire depth of the hole, can't see it making much of a difference. When mortar is applied to brick, there is usually a gap in the middle; the holes should not affect the structural integrity of the wall. The long answer? Same, but remove the anchors. In historic preservation there is concern cold temperature will follow the metal into the wall, water vapor will condense inside the wall, and damage will occur. Maybe yes, maybe no in your application. The anchors are probably two-part and the lead would have been forced and expanded into the cavity by the anchor bolt. So they may be recalcitrant and can always be drilled out. I tried to determine your location, but climate in and around the Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing is indeterminate. | |||
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https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKR...for-Concrete/3510420 Don't fool with any of the stuff you have to mix. Just shoot the hole full of this^^^ or similar. Lowes has multiple options in the cement isle. Any good silicone calk in the appropriate color would be fine as well. If it ain't woke... don't fix it. | |||
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Yes! ---------- “Nobody can ever take your integrity away from you. Only you can give up your integrity.” H. Norman Schwarzkopf | |||
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Sikaflex 1-a. I just shot about 8 miles of the stuff at work. Be sure to have a slicker to seal the edges. | |||
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Insert clear or concrete colored silicone caulk then immediately apply dry mortar mix to the caulk. I saw this done by foundation lifters after fixing my brick faced concrete steps. After weathering it looks as if no holes were ever there. __________________________________________________ If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit! Sigs Owned - A Bunch | |||
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| Master of one hand pistol shooting  |
Pull the shield. If the holes are big enough dry pack with slightly moistened patch. A good mason should know the local product line. Drypack means tamp a little grout at a time with a ram just smaller than the hole. SIGnature NRA Benefactor CMP Pistol Distinguished | |||
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Once the anchors are removed mix cement to a plaster consistency which is wetter then normal. Fill your wifes old pastry bag with the mix and squeeze it in the hole. Level it with your finger. Let all Men know thee, but no man know thee thoroughly: Men freely ford that see the shallows. Benjamin Franklin | |||
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How am I attaching the new deck to the house ? I'm not. I'm probably going to pour piers and build from those. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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The Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing is in Southestern VA. Winters are mild, summers are humid, spring and fall are very short. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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So are yo even going to see the holes when you're done? If not I'd just shoot them full of silicone or butyl and get on with my life. But the dry mortar trick sounds like it couldn't hurt. _____________________________________________________ Sliced bread, the greatest thing since the 1911. | |||
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