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You have been told this before but I will try again.....
The most likely cause of your problem is either the blend door or blend door motor(the door that moves from cold to hot is called the blend door)

The motors can stop working completely or hang up part way
the doors are known to break at the shaft, usually where the motor drive shaft slides into the door socket....the door will move partially but not fully

Your best course of action at this point is to either
A. start taking some things apart and see whats what
or
B.(my recommendation)take it to a qualified shop that has experience with ford temp control issues



Still waters run deep, so careful I don't drown you.
 
Posts: 146 | Location: Grantville, Ga | Registered: June 13, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
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quote:
Originally posted by 66tas:
You have been told this before but I will try again.....
The most likely cause of your problem is either the blend door or blend door motor(the door that moves from cold to hot is called the blend door)

The motors can stop working completely or hang up part way
the doors are known to break at the shaft, usually where the motor drive shaft slides into the door socket....the door will move partially but not fully

Your best course of action at this point is to either
A. start taking some things apart and see whats what
or
B.(my recommendation)take it to a qualified shop that has experience with ford temp control issues


I understand that blend doors go bad frequently on these vehicles but it seems to me that it is a significant factor that when I put the the setting on Panel the temperature blending appears to work as it should. At full cool it is right about ambiebt. At full hot the air comes out very hot. To me that appears to indicate a fully functioning blend door, no?

I think the switch is cheap and easy enough to change out so I’ll do that next. If that doesn’t do it for me than I’ll have to start digging in more, maybe buy a vacuum pressure gauge and start eliminating potential problems.
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Until you visually inspect doors moving and verify they are in the correct position at the correct time.

You have already been off on a tangent of the compressor coming on with defrost or mix.....that tells me you dont understand the system hence my suggestion to not throw $$ at unneeded parts.

Good luck, I'm sure you'll get it figured out



Still waters run deep, so careful I don't drown you.
 
Posts: 146 | Location: Grantville, Ga | Registered: June 13, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I agree with 66tas. If this was my truck, I’d start by removing the blend air door motor and operate the door by hand to make sure that it fully opens and closes easily and smoothly. This will also determine if the blend door is an issue.
 
Posts: 5197 | Location: Manteca, CA | Registered: May 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
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quote:
Originally posted by 66tas:
Until you visually inspect doors moving and verify they are in the correct position at the correct time.

You have already been off on a tangent of the compressor coming on with defrost or mix.....that tells me you dont understand the system hence my suggestion to not throw $$ at unneeded parts.

Good luck, I'm sure you'll get it figured out


Of course I don’t understand the system, that’s why I’m here asking for help. I’m also unwilling to pay the costs associated with having a mechanic remove the dashboard for this non-essential issue. If I can’t fix it then it won’t be fixed. I am will to put in the time to try it on my own, hence my questions and attempts to understand. I just prefer not to jump right to taking the dash out if there are other areas to explore first.

If I’m being told that perhaps the blend door isn’t opening fully even though the Panel function is apparently working then I will remove the actuator and attempt to operate the door manually. That seems fairly easy to get to... certainly easier than getting to the door itself.

Would getting temperature readings of the hot and cold outputs at the front vents help confirm anything? Is there a certain temperature I should be seeing from the heater?
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
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quote:
Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
I agree with 66tas. If this was my truck, I’d start by removing the blend air door motor and operate the door by hand to make sure that it fully opens and closes easily and smoothly. This will also determine if the blend door is an issue.


Do you know,roughly, how many degrees of movement there should be when I manually operate the door (assuming it’s not obviously broken)? The diagram ivevsee. Looks about 80 degrees but I have no idea if the diagram is accurate.
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by thumperfbc:
quote:
Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
I agree with 66tas. If this was my truck, I’d start by removing the blend air door motor and operate the door by hand to make sure that it fully opens and closes easily and smoothly. This will also determine if the blend door is an issue.


Do you know,roughly, how many degrees of movement there should be when I manually operate the door (assuming it’s not obviously broken)? The diagram ivevsee. Looks about 80 degrees but I have no idea if the diagram is accurate.


That’s about right with the other Ford’s I’ve dealt with. Looking on Alldata, this motor appears to be on the passenger side above the floor ducting. It has three screws holding it and a single connector. Book time for replacement is 1.1 hours.
 
Posts: 5197 | Location: Manteca, CA | Registered: May 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
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It is fixed.

I had to take it in to the mechanic to diagnose a fault in EGR anyway today and I mentioned the heater. He said he’d look into it. He ended up doing a “relearn” for the actuators via the pcm and all is good now. Not sure how it got “unlearned” but all is well that ends well. $50 for the new EGR solenoid and labor for switching it out and fixing the heater seems more than reasonable.
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
quote:
Originally posted by thumperfbc:
quote:
Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
I agree with 66tas. If this was my truck, I’d start by removing the blend air door motor and operate the door by hand to make sure that it fully opens and closes easily and smoothly. This will also determine if the blend door is an issue.


Yes, I had a mechanic change the blower motor on my 2008 expedition and he charged me 1/2 an hour of labor. Ford did this right and the dash does not need to be removed. Take it to a mechanic. It will be cheaper than throwing parts at it.

Do you know,roughly, how many degrees of movement there should be when I manually operate the door (assuming it’s not obviously broken)? The diagram ivevsee. Looks about 80 degrees but I have no idea if the diagram is accurate.


That’s about right with the other Ford’s I’ve dealt with. Looking on Alldata, this motor appears to be on the passenger side above the floor ducting. It has three screws holding it and a single connector. Book time for replacement is 1.1 hours.
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by thumperfbc:
It is fixed.

I had to take it in to the mechanic to diagnose a fault in EGR anyway today and I mentioned the heater. He said he’d look into it. He ended up doing a “relearn” for the actuators via the pcm and all is good now. Not sure how it got “unlearned” but all is well that ends well. $50 for the new EGR solenoid and labor for switching it out and fixing the heater seems more than reasonable.


Good deal. I wasn't aware that 2002 models had the relearn option. Yours probably lost the it's "learn" from the battery being disconnected for a decent period of time during the engine swap. I'd bet that the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) was reset during that time.
 
Posts: 5197 | Location: Manteca, CA | Registered: May 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
quote:
Originally posted by thumperfbc:
It is fixed.

I had to take it in to the mechanic to diagnose a fault in EGR anyway today and I mentioned the heater. He said he’d look into it. He ended up doing a “relearn” for the actuators via the pcm and all is good now. Not sure how it got “unlearned” but all is well that ends well. $50 for the new EGR solenoid and labor for switching it out and fixing the heater seems more than reasonable.


Good deal. I wasn't aware that 2002 models had the relearn option. Yours probably lost the it's "learn" from the battery being disconnected for a decent period of time during the engine swap. I'd bet that the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) was reset during that time.


Yea, that’s what the mechanic figured, though he only had the truck about 48 hours (charges 13 hours labor for the completevswap). I do wonder how the egr solenoid went bad during the swap as it was fine before and didn’t start tossing codes until after the swap. However, it was the only “unexpected” to come up and I’ll take that without complaint on such a big project.
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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