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I screwed up an epoxy pour-how do I clean it up? UPDATE, New Post Login/Join 
Three Generations
of Service
Picture of PHPaul
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Using clear epoxy for a water feature on my diorama. Think I must have mis-read the graduations on the mixing cups seeing as I have different amounts remaining in the resin and hardener containers. Big hint is that after 3 or 4 hours, it hasn't cured.

Any suggestions on how to clean up the resulting glop so I can re-pour without contaminating the new batch?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: PHPaul,




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 12759 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Just a guess, do you have more catalyst (hardener) than resin? Typically, hardner kicks over the resin. As for clean up, what is the surface the spill is on? Lacquer thinner might be too strong, maybe acetone or mineral spirits.
 
Posts: 3875 | Location: west 'by god' virginia | Registered: May 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Three Generations
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quote:
Originally posted by recoatlift:
Just a guess, do you have more catalyst (hardener) than resin? Typically, hardner kicks over the resin. As for clean up, what is the surface the spill is on? Lacquer thinner might be too strong, maybe acetone or mineral spirits.


Over cured Plaster of Paris. Yes, too much hardener.




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 12759 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
chickenshit
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My only suggestion would be acetone. Good luck PHPaul


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Posts: 7237 | Location: East Central FL | Registered: January 05, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Just because you can,
doesn't mean you should
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Make sure the temperature is within range too.
 
Posts: 6218 | Location: NE GA | Registered: August 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The epoxy I use is a 5:1 mix. Check your instructions, you might just need more time. Also epoxy is temperature sensitive. Recalculate how much of each product you used.

For a clean up, it would be paint scrapers and the "Orange" hand cleaner. Also alcohol and acetone work, but are nastier to work with. Note that epoxy always turns yellow over time, so a cleanup can spread a light yellow hue over a larger area.


-c1steve
 
Posts: 3104 | Location: West coast | Registered: March 31, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Methyl Ethyl Keytone was what was used at work years ago.
If the ratio is close, sometimes a heat gun or hair dryer can kick start the process.
 
Posts: 1024 | Location: Moved to N.W. MT. | Registered: April 26, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by sig operator:
Methyl Ethyl Keytone was what was used at work years ago.


Can use MEK. Honestly I'd try a heat gun first and see if you can get it to kick that way, or turn into a goo you can simply scrape off with a putty knife.
 
Posts: 20158 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
It's not you,
it's me.
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https://www.westsystem.com/ins...s/clean-up-removing/


Remove uncured or non-curing epoxy as you would spilled resin. Scrape as much material as you can from the surface using a stiff metal or plastic scraper. Warm the epoxy to lower its viscosity. Clean the residue with lacquer thinner, acetone, or alcohol. Follow safety warnings on solvents, and provide adequate ventilation. After recoating wood surfaces with epoxy, it’s a good idea to brush the wet epoxy in the direction of the grain with a wire brush to improve adhesion. Allow solvents to dry before recoating with epoxy.
 
Posts: 6851 | Location: Derby City | Registered: September 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Frangas non Flectes
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quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
quote:
Originally posted by sig operator:
Methyl Ethyl Keytone was what was used at work years ago.


Can use MEK. Honestly I'd try a heat gun first and see if you can get it to kick that way, or turn into a goo you can simply scrape off with a putty knife.


This is what I would do before playing with Methyl Ethyl Bad Shit. Especially if this is for a diorama. No call to play with anything that hot for a hobby.
 
Posts: 11923 | Registered: February 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Happily Retired
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Acetone should work.



.....never marry a woman who is mean to your waitress.
 
Posts: 3959 | Location: Lake of the Ozarks, MO. | Registered: September 05, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Three Generations
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Well, panicked for nothing. Building the diorama in the basement, temp runs about 60°

Ambient temp affected cure time. Checked it this morning, cured perfectly.

Whew...




Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent.
 
Posts: 12759 | Location: Downeast Maine | Registered: March 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Excellent! Thanks for your update, many folks don’t bother to get back and share the final outcome.
 
Posts: 3875 | Location: west 'by god' virginia | Registered: May 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PHPaul:
Well, panicked for nothing. Building the diorama in the basement, temp runs about 60°

Ambient temp affected cure time. Checked it this morning, cured perfectly.

Whew...


That's great to hear the update. Yeah things like Epoxy and Paint take much longer when the temperature is 60F compared to even 75F.
 
Posts: 20158 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Frangas non Flectes
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I’m glad it worked out and that you updated us.

I almost posted “maybe wait and see what happens?” Then I thought “nah, Paul knows way more about this sorta stuff than I do, if he thinks it’s not working, it’s not working.” Big Grin
 
Posts: 11923 | Registered: February 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Hillbilly Wannabe
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Glad it worked out. Fishing rod builders use an epoxy finish on the wraps. If a finish remains tacky and doesn't cure properly one remedy is to mix another batch and put that over the uncured finish. That will kick it off and it will set up properly.
 
Posts: 2329 | Location: Georgia | Registered: July 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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