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Team Apathy
posted
Hi guys... we are doing a bathroom “refresh” to include new vinyl floor, new vanity, and paint. When I pulled the old vinyl out we found evidence of past leaks and some moldy underlay. So, I started ripping out the damaged underlay and discovered a severely corroded toilet flange that I assume needs replacement. There was no leak at the toilet when I removed it but it seems prudent to fix this before reinstalling the toilet.

But I don’t know how. There appears to be 4 screws holding it down, but they are heavily damaged and no slots are evident on the heads. In fact, on 2 of them I can simply grab the head with a polar and lift it out. Is all I need to do is remove the other fasteners and this old one will lift out? I assume it can’t be that simple.






This is in an upstairs bathroom. The drain pipe appears to be some sort of black plastic, I think. Home was built in the mid 1980’s
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
It's not you,
it's me.
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Steel flange?
 
Posts: 7016 | Location: Right outside Philly | Registered: September 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
It's not you,
it's me.
Picture of RAMIUS
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Start by getting rid of the wax to get a better view of the situation
 
Posts: 7016 | Location: Right outside Philly | Registered: September 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
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I ran into a similar situation when I replaced two toilets. The steel flange had rusted away leaving the plastic soil pipe. Not wanting to redo the entire soil stack, I found a two-piece stainless steel flange at the hardware store that sort of worked. It helps locate the toilet over the soil pipe, but that's about all. I am depending on the weight of the toilet to keep it in place.
 
Posts: 11875 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
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quote:
Originally posted by RAMIUS:
Start by getting rid of the wax to get a better view of the situation


Only the middle picture has the wax. The other two don’t. It appears to be steel, or at least used to be.
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Cat Whisperer
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Ive put two of these in over the past few months redoing our bathrooms.. I'm as happy as you could expect to be with a toilet flange. It was strongly recommended over wax.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fl...al-7530P24/205762183


------------------------------------

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246R
 
Posts: 3901 | Location: SE PA | Registered: November 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
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quote:
Originally posted by cmr076:
Ive put two of these in over the past few months redoing our bathrooms.. I'm as happy as you could expect to be with a toilet flange. It was strongly recommended over wax.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fl...al-7530P24/205762183


I need to deal with the damage/rottedflabge before the seal, I think?
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
It's not you,
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Recently, I remodeled the bathroom in our new to us 1960s home.

Noticed the smell of pee by the base. I took the floor up and saw a flange in the same shape as in the pics.

Leaky, all rusted out. The bolts were loose. I cleared the wax and realized the flange was needing replacement.

After researching how to do this, I found the best method to pound on it relentlessly with a 4lb hammer. After hitting the top of the flange, careful not to shatter the pipe below, but you want to wail on it hard enough to break the lead that's holding the flange to the pipe.

It should eventually come loose and you can put a fancy pvc flange on
 
Posts: 7016 | Location: Right outside Philly | Registered: September 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
safe & sound
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How solid is the plywood around the flange? It looks like it has been wet before too, and if it's soft you might as well cut it out and replace it while you're in there.


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Posts: 15695 | Location: St. Charles, MO, USA | Registered: September 22, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
It's not you,
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I replaced the closet flange with this. And put that rubber gasket over it. Anchored in concrete.

https://www.oatey.com/2372519/...cement-Closet-Flange
 
Posts: 7016 | Location: Right outside Philly | Registered: September 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
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quote:
Originally posted by RAMIUS:
Recently, I remodeled the bathroom in our new to us 1960s home.

Noticed the smell of pee by the base. I took the floor up and saw a flange in the same shape as in the pics.

Leaky, all rusted out. The bolts were loose. I cleared the wax and realized the flange was needing replacement.

After researching how to do this, I found the best method to pound on it relentlessly with a 4lb hammer. After hitting the top of the flange, careful not to shatter the pipe below, but you want to wail on it hard enough to break the lead that's holding the flange to the pipe.

It should eventually come loose and you can put a fancy pvc flange on


So there is something more than a lip that holds the flange to the pipe? That’s what I wasn’t sure about. Given the condition of the current flange I don’t think it would be too hard to break it apart to get it out (famous last words??)

quote:
Originally posted by a1abdj:
How solid is the plywood around the flange? It looks like it has been wet before too, and if it's soft you might as well cut it out and replace it while you're in there.


It’s not soft. The particle board underlay that was on top of it took the brunt of the damage, I think.
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
It's not you,
it's me.
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The closet flange that the toilet sets on there is cast iron, it's often welded? with lead and oakum to make a strong seal.

Just don't break the pipe it's connected too...if you do your fucked.

Here's a how to https://www.thisoldhouse.com/h...t-iron-toilet-flange
 
Posts: 7016 | Location: Right outside Philly | Registered: September 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Disclaimer: I AIN'T DONE IT MYSELF. But I saw it done on "Ask This Old House".

It's an alternative to replacing the broken flange. You clean up the old flange and put in a wax ring, as if the flange were intact and usable. Then, you screw down this aftermarket additional flange onto the floor, sealing it to the original flange. Then, you attach the toilet to the aftermarket flange, which is all brand-new material.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DA...air-10672X/204403879

I'm sure other versions are out there.


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Posts: 2064 | Location: The Sticks in Wisconsin. | Registered: September 30, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Team Apathy
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quote:
Originally posted by whanson_wi:
Disclaimer: I AIN'T DONE IT MYSELF. But I saw it done on "Ask This Old House".

It's an alternative to replacing the broken flange. You clean up the old flange and put in a wax ring, as if the flange were intact and usable. Then, you screw down this aftermarket additional flange onto the floor, sealing it to the original flange. Then, you attach the toilet to the aftermarket flange, which is all brand-new material.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DA...air-10672X/204403879

I'm sure other versions are out there.


That looks promising.... but doesn’t it raise the height too much?
 
Posts: 6354 | Location: Modesto, CA | Registered: January 27, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Howdy,

If it were me,

I'd call a Professional Plumber and Pay him to do a proper job.

If something breaks and something goes wrong,

you may have to call anyway and the job will be more costly.

I know my limitations.

A lot easier, faster and the Wife is Happier.

When we moved into our present home, I had 3 toilets replaced with ADA taller ones.

Also had a refrigerator water line connected and a few other things.

All done in less than a day.

The money spent was worth the peace of mind with the Wife.
 
Posts: 1200 | Location: Fredericksburg, Texas | Registered: October 16, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of rexles
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Your pipe coming up looks to be black ABS plastic schedule 40 pipe. The closet (Toilet) flange is glued onto the pipe. The rusted metal you see holds the closet bolts that bolts the closet down. If the 4 screws are not screwed securely to the floor when you tighten down the closet bolts it will pull up the flange to the base of the toilet and squeeze out all of the wax seal and wobble.
Is the inside diameter of the pipe 3" or 4"?
Is this bathroom piping accessable from below? Over a basement or crawl space?
Busting off the rusted metal will not help you much. It is all part of the flange/pipe that glues on.
First. Make sure the wood where you are going to screw the new flange into is solid. If it is not it needs replaced. If you are going to cut up the floor to replace the wood, you can cut off the flange and replace it.


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Posts: 1110 | Location: Holland, OH | Registered: May 07, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have fixed many off these with a S.S flange that can be screwed right over the top of yours. I use 6-8 S.S 2" wood screws to secure it. They are available at Home Depot. Good luck!


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Posts: 3856 | Location: WNY | Registered: April 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Complete and proper replacement of the flange would invlove knowing:

1. What the soil pipe is made of
2. Cutting soil pipe below the floor
3. Adding new short section of soil pipe plus coupling to attach to old soil pipe and return to original height
4. Adding new flange that will properly attach to soil pipe (a lot are glued if pvc or abs soil pipe)
5. Properly reseating stool
 
Posts: 3572 | Location: in the southwest Atlanta metro area | Registered: September 10, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
It's not you,
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Step 1) Google
Step 2) Enter Search terms: How to Replace toilet flange (add terms as needed pvc, cast iron, etc)
Step 3) Watch a few different videos on the youtube
Step 4) Do what the guy in the video does

You can do this yourself with even the smallest amount of ability. No need for a plumber $$$$, this is pretty simple and straight forward.
 
Posts: 7016 | Location: Right outside Philly | Registered: September 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Nosce te ipsum
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quote:
Originally posted by rexles:
Your pipe coming up looks to be black ABS plastic schedule 40 pipe. The closet (Toilet) flange is glued onto the pipe.


Lots of info already in the thread is helpful.

Looks like renovation or new construction with a steel flange screwed right onto a sub-floor with drywall screws.

If there is zero movement on the flange, you can probably leave it. Maybe use the spanner flange system to reenforce and raise it. Or even a PVC flange spacer, the latter two assuming there is something worthwhile to screw into.

The flange usually sits on the finished floor. If you cut the floor open, you'll have loads of options.

If that was my job and the customer definitively said they want the flange removed and replaced, and the plywood was not to be touched, I'd 1] cut the pipe from below or with a rotary zip bit in a drill, 2] reenforce the deck from below with wood glued and screwed, 3] use a coupling to extend it with nice thick Sch 40 PVC,and 4] pack/pour a cast iron flange onto the PVC. Shoot a couple screws thru the flange into the newly braced deck.

Lot$$ of work when it may be fine, relatively speaking.
 
Posts: 8759 | Registered: March 24, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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