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Member |
For what it is worth, my son and I did inventory yesterday making sure we had all the important serials numbers, etc. written down. I went to open the Gun Vault NV300 that sits bedside and it would NOT open. Called tech support and was told to basically try different combinations. My combination works as I could clearly hear it "unlocking", but it just would not release. I have had this for 2+ years and infrequently open it. Long story short, it took me about 5 seconds to force it open with a screw driver. It destroyed the locking mechanism that didn't apparently work correctly anyway. My advice...don't waste your money on this crap. I put a review on their web site, we'll see if it actually gets posted. Here's the product link: http://www.gunvault.com/nano-vault-300-nv300.html. BTW...a lot of the components in the lock are plastic. I may be able to post photos later today. ---------- “Nobody can ever take your integrity away from you. Only you can give up your integrity.” H. Norman Schwarzkopf | ||
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Member |
Good to know. Thanks for the heads up I've been looking at those. "Clear Eyes. Full Hearts. Can't Lose." | |||
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thin skin can't win |
I have one of their little multi-vaults. Always viewed it as security against kids hands, not an adult with even the slightest motivation to open it. There's simply not enough structure there to be secure. You only have integrity once. - imprezaguy02 | |||
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Bad dog! |
What about the key? The unlocking sound with no door opening is because the batteries are too weak to fully disengage the lock. With new batteries, the door will open. I have used Gunvault for years and so long as you change the batteries once a year (I do it in January) they have been fine for me. ______________________________________________________ "You get much farther with a kind word and a gun than with a kind word alone." | |||
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Striker in waiting |
I have a couple of them, but only with the regular key lock, which have always worked quite well. Not sure I'd be interested in anything like that with plastic parts in the locking mechanism. -Rob I predict that there will be many suggestions and statements about the law made here, and some of them will be spectacularly wrong. - jhe888 A=A | |||
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eh-TEE-oh-clez |
Are you looking at the right safe? I have the NV300...and it's the one with the mechanical combo lock, right? You turn the dials...then turn the knob... | |||
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Member |
Confused as well. The NV 300 is a mechanical combo lock that I have not had any issue with. I use it pretty much exclusively for travel and for checking in pistols when flying. The NV200 and NV100 use a key lock. I have a few of those as well and have had good luck. GunVault DOES offer small biometric safes as well, but you mentioned the NV 300. Steve Small Business Website Design & Maintenance - https://spidercreations.net | OpSpec Training - https://opspectraining.com | Grayguns - https://grayguns.com Evil exists. You can not negotiate with, bribe or placate evil. You're not going to be able to have it sit down with Dr. Phil for an anger management session either. | |||
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Ammoholic |
I have several of the NV300s, one in every car and a few spares. I was disappointed when they changed the orientation of the lock 90 degrees, as it impacts how I can place the stuff I put in it. However, I've never had a problem with the mechanism on any of them. I did have one that was locked closed (empty) stolen out of a truck that spent an extended stay at a dealership with a visit to another dealership in the middle of it. From the trauma to the coating on the cable, whoever stole it fought with it a fair bit before breaking the box open. The reason I have these is to slow down the guy who smacks the window of my vehicle on that one time when I can't avoid going to the post office, the courthouse, or some medical appt for which I'm going to have to remove a cover garment. It is not real security. Heck, neither of my safes (a Liberty and a Sun Welding Co) is going to keep someone who is determined, knowledgeable, and has tools out for all that long. I know I could get through the side of either one with a cutting torch easily. I'm sure it wouldn't be that much harder with a drill (for the starter hole(s)), a punch and hammer (in case the holes needed connecting), and a sawzall. Or heck, a die grinder with a cutoff wheel - then I wouldn't need any starter holes. All those methods are noisy, take some time, require some tools and the knowledge of how to use them. I'm hopeful that a crook with the tools and the know-how to use them won't find themselves at my house with sufficient time to use them, but if they do, they're likely going to get away with whatever is in the safes. C'est la vie. | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
Can't be much of a "vault," then. | |||
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eh-TEE-oh-clez |
The purpose, for me, is to avoid liability. It serves as a locked transport container for places where I cannot carry a loaded forearm. It also serves as a good insulator against claims of negligence, should someone unintentionally come across my weapon outside of my control. There is no such thing as a secure container against someone who is intent on getting inside of it. Even the most expensive safes fail against someone suitably equipped or with enough time. | |||
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Member |
Anything made of 18-20GA steel will only keep a toddler out. The combo locks on these have had plastic components. I'm not sure that is still the case. $30 won't buy much security/time in most cases. As mentioned above, anything can be broken into given enough tools and time. My view is to buy something that will at least buy you as much time as possible. | |||
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