New F32T8 bulbs don't work either. Guess I should have seen that the little indicator light on the special high dollar switch was also out. But, here's the deal. 125 v AC is present to the switch, and 125 v AC goes through the switch in the ON position. In the OFF position, I can measure 125 v AC at the top terminal (ON side), but also measure 35 v AC at the bottom terminal. I'm thinking 35 v AC is the wrong answer. What am I missing here?

Don't tell her I broke the cheap plastic diffuser on the light, please.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 4MUL8R,

Sorry, no help, but lol @ the diffuser.

I am reading about phantom power on cheap digital multimeters and switched neutrals. There is a continuing saga of lights dimming when inductive loads come on in this house, which is also likely to be a neutral line issue. At present, all I can do is raise a glass of Jim Beam Double Oaked bourbon and wait for the SF information to come in. No hurry.

What's a SWMBO?

SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed...aka

The Old Ball And Chain

Or,

My wife...the perfect match for me, the person who makes life bearable, and a life partner of nearly 25 years.

She Who Must Be Obeyed...

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed...aka

The Old Ball And Chain

Or,

My wife...the perfect match for me, the person who makes life bearable, and a life partner of nearly 25 years.

aka, The Boss ...

If a fluorescent light doesn't work after changing bulbs, it's the ballast.

F32T8 if I am remembering those numbers it is a 4ft fluorescent tube, that uses a ballast to light the lamp.

I have had hundreds of the ballasts go bad over time.

The useful life is about 5-7 years.

Open the light and remove the ballast cover.

Check if the connection into the ballast is getting 110 volts with the switch on. If it is the ballast has gone bad.

Today you have three options.

1. replace the ballast
1 or 2 bulb is around $12, 4 bulb $17

2. replace the bulbs with LEDs, they come three ways. Ballested, direct wire, and hybrid. Be sure to get either direct wire or hybrid and you can just remove the ballast and wire them directly.

3. Just replace the whole fixture.

If you don't have 110 in the fixture, work backwards to the breaker panel. Find the bad connection.

I went route 2, easy to do if you do not kneel down on the glass cook top. Dammit.

quote:

125 v AC is present to the switch, and 125 v AC goes through the switch in the ON position. In the OFF position, I can measure 125 v AC at the top terminal (ON side), but also measure 35 v AC at the bottom terminal.

Measured to what? How? Just curious.

Also, is the switch frame grounded?

quote:

Originally posted by FRANKT:

quote:

125 v AC is present to the switch, and 125 v AC goes through the switch in the ON position. In the OFF position, I can measure 125 v AC at the top terminal (ON side), but also measure 35 v AC at the bottom terminal.

Measured to what? How? Just curious.

Also, is the switch frame grounded?

That's what I was wondering. Testing to ground or neutral? If there's an open neutral you can get some readings that make no sense.

Remove the bulbs, remove the ballast, and install new LED bulbs. You shouldn't have to replace anything else for years, and you'll get a better quality of light. I've been using "Toggled" brand from Home Depot. They include replacement "tombstones," as the ones in the fixtures are likely "shunted" and won't work for LED bulbs.

quote:

Originally posted by WaterburyBob:

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed...aka

The Old Ball And Chain

Or,

My wife...the perfect match for me, the person who makes life bearable, and a life partner of nearly 25 years.

aka, The Boss ...

It was a terrible night, blowing cold and rain in a most frightful manner.
The streets were deserted and the local baker was just about to close up shop when a little Jewish man slipped through the door.
He carried an umbrella, blown inside out, and was bundled in two sweaters and a thick coat.
But even so he still looked wet and bedraggled. As he unwound his scarf he said to the baker, "May I have two bagels to go, please?"
The baker said in astonishment, "Two bagels? Nothing more?"
"That's right," answered the little man. "One for me and one for Bernice."
"Bernice is your wife?" Asked the baker.
"What do you think," snapped the little man, "my mother would send me out on a night like this?"

I measured voltage from brass terminals to the switch frame, which I hope is grounded.

Good thing my wife is not named Bernice.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
I measured voltage from brass terminals to the switch frame, which I hope is grounded.

Yeah, me too. If you connected a green or bare wire under the green screw then it should be.
I think all of your measured voltages are normal, including the 35V. That switch has an internal dropping resistor to get the 110 down to whatever their [internal] LED requires. That type of switch also uses its load, traditionally an incandescent lamp, to complete the circuit needed by the switch' internal LED. Not enough current leaks to light the load but it is enough to light the LED.
In your case, I'd bet your switch is OK and you have a problem with the load, your fluorescent lamps/fixture, assuming you are getting that switched 110V to them. Mr. Fluke is your friend.
And no, I'm not an electrician and my observations are worth exactly what you paid for them.
Good luck.

^^ Is possible. Those lighted switches can do weird things with LED lamps sometimes.

The only way to be sure is to nuke it from... I mean remove cover from florescent light and measure hot to neutral. If you have 120v (nominal) and no lamps are lit you need a new ballast. Make sure the ballast is also actually a T8 and not a T12 that someone just stuck the wrong bulbs in.

OK, from hot to neutral we have identical voltages as what we measure from ground to hot on the switch itself. Ballast it is. Or, a new fixture.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
OK, from hot to neutral we have identical voltages as what we measure from ground to hot on the switch itself. Ballast it is. Or, a new fixture.

Measured at the light itself not the switch right? If so it's a ballast. Very easy to replace. Shoot me an email if you have any trouble and I will walk you through it.

The ballast was nearly as expensive as the utility flush mount light. Since I had broken the decorative light bezel already, and it is Easter Sunday, I reasoned that a new light was cheaper than ballast and repair time. $22 for the entire light. Had it been a fancy light, a ballast replacement would be warranted, of course. Sandy the little white dog went with me and picked out the light at Home Despot. I also discovered that one 15 amp circuit controls the master bath, the bonus bedroom, and the laundry room light. So, 1500 watts of hair dryer shares the electrons with a big screen 42 inch plasma TV, a set top box, a Mac mini, two 27 inch monitors, a 5 w fluorescent light, and a FIOS modem/router/wireless. Makes you wonder who wired this house.