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Bought a car - finally. Update: inspection done, need to fix 2 things Login/Join 
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Picture of konata88
posted
Again, Thanks to all who have helped to educate and guide me over the past couple of threads.

I'm not sure if I should be happy or sad with my purchase yet. But in any case, I bought something to close this saga.

I bought an early model year, current generation LX570. Price was in the middle between my preferred target ($15-20k) and buying a new TRD-OR ($40k). Mileage is in the low 100's. Generally seemed like it was in very good shape; single owner but bought at a used dealership. So, yea, I paid a little extra perhaps over a private party transaction but if something goes wrong, I have an address. And the people generally seemed good - mom/pop store with a mechanic.

I tried to check it out as best as I could - checking for frame damage, repainting, original glass, etc. All seemed good.

Wheels are big 20" so may need to change to go off pavement. And not sure about the tires, new-ish but Cooper (never heard of the brand before, not sold at tire rack so not sure if they are keepers). Anyway, probably good enough to check out the car and then use on roads until we actually take an off road trip.

It's got lots of bells and whistles -- I'm going to need to read the manual. It only comes w/ one key though. Apparently I can get extra's from the dealer at $300 a pop. Ouch. But I need at least 2-3 keys.

Acceleration seemed strong but breaking seemed a little soft. May want look into that a little. But at least hard breaking from 30mph didn't make it pull to a side - it stayed neutral and straight.


Question as usual: I tried testing the H4, L4 and the locking center diff. Neither I nor the person who rode with me really know how to operate it. When testing L4, we tried pushing the knob while in N and P. I can't remember how we got it to work eventually but it didn't go into L4 from the start. We had to try a few things.

Same thing with locking the center diff. Couldn't get it to lock - the light kept blinking. Eventually we got it to lock though.

4H - very sensitive to gas peddle. Good acceleration. 4L was not sensitive to gas peddle; no acceleration. And seemed to rev a bit higher. I assume this is all expected behavior.

When we got the center to lock in 4L, I think I could feel turning behavior to be a bit different than when in 4H -- harder to turn. I think this is expected as well, right?

In any case, switching from 4H to 4L or 4L center locked was not as easy as flipping the switch -- took some jiggling. And when exiting from center lock or 4L (center lock in particular), it was a little hard too. In fact, to get out of center lock, we turned the car off then on again.

Normal? Just need to know the trick? Bad sign and need to fix something? First SUV, First AWD/4WD. First time I've ever shifted a transfer case. Not sure what to expect here.


It's "bought" but I'll actually go in and give money / get keys later this week.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: konata88,




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 12683 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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When using 4L or the locking diff, you often have to drive slow and straight a short distance after activating it to get the gears to mesh and lock in place. I'd look in the manual (or find online) to verify for your model.




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Posts: 3352 | Location: Southern Maine | Registered: February 10, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Not sure if it is still the same but Sewell Lexus sent me a key that was programmed for my LS400. I had to send proof of ownership and a copy of my dl and they made the key from the serial #. Cost was about $100 but this was several years ago.


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Posts: 4682 | Location: Sunnyside of Louisville | Registered: July 04, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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4 low is normally a bit tougher (not always) than 4 high. You will feel it especially while turning, feels like it is fighting you. This will go away in snow or soft ground. 4 low is a creeper type gearing (not sure the right terminology) and you will not be able to go more than a few MPH. Sometimes it is harder to get out of gear than into. Neutral, on flat ground makes it easier sometimes.
Cooper is a good tire, drove many 10 wheelers with them. I also just purchased a set for my sons car.


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Posts: 4011 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: December 06, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Not sure about your other issues, but Coopers are a good brand for tires.
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Space City | Registered: October 05, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes they are. Congrats konata. Hope it serves you well.



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Posts: 19111 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cooper tires are highly thought of for the most part. Based in Ohio, and many (if not all) of their tires are made in the USA.


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Posts: 2769 | Location: Middle TN | Registered: March 22, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks. Good to know.

I was wondering because as I did a u turn, I think the back end swung out a little. I thought VSC would have prevented that with decent tires.




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 12683 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That's a nice SUV. Congratulations and enjoy!



"It did not really matter what we expected from life, but rather what life expected from us. We needed to stop asking about the meaning of life, and instead to think of ourselves as those who were being questioned by life – daily and hourly. Our answer must consist not in talk and meditation, but in right action and in right conduct. Life ultimately means taking the responsibility to find the right answer to its problems and to fulfill the tasks which it constantly sets for each individual." Viktor Frankl, Man's Search for Meaning, 1946.
 
Posts: 19582 | Location: The Free State of Arizona - Ditat Deus | Registered: March 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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From the owners manual:
http://www.lexudrive.com/lexsu-158.html

I believe it is best not to drive on dry pavement in 4wd low range, particularly with the differential locked. Never had a Lexus but have owned numerous 4wd trucks and SUVs and that's been the case with all of them.
 
Posts: 26852 | Location: Jerkwater, Texas | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cooper is a good tire and I have run them for years on my GMC Sonomas
 
Posts: 1895 | Location: SOMEWHERE IN,, PA USA | Registered: May 08, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Congrats on the new rig, I am quite sure you will enjoy it. Nice step up from the 4Runner Smile
I have used Cooper tires in the past without issue.
Do not lock transfer case or differentials on pavement. If it breaks and it could, repairs are very expensive. Do take it off pavement once a month or so and lock it in for a bit to exercise the internals. Doing this will make it easier to get in and out of 4WD. Many folks don't and when they really need 4WD can't get it to engage due to non usage.



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Posts: 2872 | Location: See der Rabbits, Iowa | Registered: June 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by arfmel:
From the owners manual:
http://www.lexudrive.com/lexsu-158.html

I believe it is best not to drive on dry pavement in 4wd low range, particularly with the differential locked. Never had a Lexus but have owned numerous 4wd trucks and SUVs and that's been the case with all of them.


This, you'll really only want to lock a diff when you're in lose gravel, sand, dirt or mud. Doing so on pavement can result in damage, expensive damage at that.

As you noticed, the lights to indicate 4WD/diff engagement can take a little time to show they are engaged. You have a series of gears that have to mesh just right for them to "lock in". If those gears aren't lined up perfectly when you turn a dial or push a button, the magic won't happen. It often takes a few rotations of the tires and maybe backing up a bit.

As mentioned, 4WD low is a slow/crawl gear ratio. You won't be hitting the interstate in 4WD low. You won't even be driving around your neighborhood in 4WD low, it's designed that way.

Exercise your locker(s) on proper terrain occasionally. Keep in mind that just because you hit a light trail or gravel doesn't mean you have to drop to low and engage your locker(s). Realistically 4WD high will get you anywhere it sounds like you plan on going.

I would drop the 20's too, the cost of A/T tires for a 20" rim will show you quickly why. You'll probably have to stick with at least an 18" rim, maybe 17", to clear your brake hardware. You'll gain more sidewall as well which will help in your off road/pavement adventures.

You've bought a hell of a vehicle. Learn it, use it, and enjoy it.
 
Posts: 2679 | Location: The Low Country | Registered: October 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Also, do your self a big favor. figure out where to lubricate the drive train. I really mean it. Unless the previous owner did it it probably has not been done since new. No for hire oil change places lube anything anymore. Especially drive line components.
If they are supposedly perm lube type components have a qualified mech. drill and tap and install zirts and them lubricate them every oil change.



"Practice like you want to play in the game"
 
Posts: 19111 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks guys.

Yea, kinda understand the 4L / CDL off pavement. But the car didn't have gas (the empty light was on) and I wanted to do at least a quick check that they would engage and seemed to work.

We didn't really drive around -- just got it to engage, quick accel and turn test (5 seconds each?) and then disengaged.

I will need to find a place to exercise the 4L and CDL once in awhile (once a month is the recommendation?). I'll actually do that once I get the car in hand. I'm pretty sure this car was never taken off pavement or used to tow anything.

But I will need to try some of the tricks above to get it to engage / disengage. It did seem a little sticky, probably from under use.

Okay -- I'll keep the 20" Coopers for now. But I'll look for 18" to go off pavement. Need to build up funds -- I exhausted my entire budget to buy this car. It's really got more luxury and features than we need but it was the closet thing to having price be close to value from a reputable seller.

I hope this car is in good condition and no surprises. But if it is, I'm sure we'll be pretty happy with it. Despite the age and mileage, I'm viewing it as a car purchase that will only require regular maintenance for the next 100K+ miles / 10-15 years.

That being said, I see the following expenses coming up:
1) new pads and maybe rotors; I'll upgrade to Akebono Performance (works well on my GS300). The current brakes don't stop as well as I'd like - maybe that's just truck vs car....

2) replace all the key fluids (transmission, differentials, AHC suspension)

The only thing that still has me concerned is how easy it was to wag the tail while making the u turn. I've wagged the tail (on purpose) on my GS but only in the rain and VSC kicks in to minimize it.

Is it typical and expected to be able to kick out the rear a little in these kinds of cars? Or should I test out the VSC a little more before finalizing the deal?

I'll look into drive train lubrication. Thanks.

I wonder if I can make little covers for the 4L, Crawl Control and CDL button so that my wife doesn't touch them (especially when tossing the purse into the center console area).

I have some buyer's regret now -- should I have just bought a new T4ROR? But I'm trying to convince myself that, if this is really in good condition, it will be more comfortable for 90% of the on-pavement driving and be just fine off pavement for us (no need for the rear locker; and I think if we do need it, I assume I could always get an ARB kit installed). So, this is better featured, more comfortable and should have similar life span with similar TCO. More for less....?




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 12683 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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"should I have just bought a new T4ROR? But I'm trying to convince myself that, if this is really in good condition, it will be more comfortable for 90% of the on-pavement driving and be just fine off pavement for us "

Well, I would have bought something new (for that kind of money) with a lot fewer doodads and geegaws for offroad use, myself. It's got 100k miles on it, and people doing shit like engaging 4wd on dry pavement "to see if it works". Wink
 
Posts: 26852 | Location: Jerkwater, Texas | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hehe.... That's what worries me about used cars, especially ones like this. Stupid newbs like me as well as those who commonly say "Hey, hold my beer and watch this...."

I do feel somewhat that new may have been better overall. But if I'm honest with myself, even this car is more than I should be spending. $40k is just putting me deeper in the hole. What actually would have been nice is a great condition T4R w/ all the features for < $20k. But after searching and searching I just didn't see that happening -- I'm not that lucky. Smile

How's that for rationalization? Smile




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 12683 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You may want to poke around on the IH8MUD forum's "200 series" section. A great resource for Land Cruisers (and LXs).
 
Posts: 132 | Registered: August 30, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You are obligated to post pix since there were so many who discussed and helped you, right?



"Practice like you want to play in the game"
 
Posts: 19111 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of konata88
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Pics are coming. Smile

Keys - $300 at the local dealership (cut and programmed). OUCH!!


I'm noticing a little vibration noise coming through the steering wheel while driving -- it feels like it's related to transmission / drive train vibration. Normal for full time 4WD?

Starting a shopping list:
1) window tint - it's like a greenhouse. Probably target next spring before next summer.
2) floor mats - not sure what to get (brand, type, etc). at least for front seats.
3) console vault - need to search for what's available that will fit. V-line doesn't seem to have one.
4) want some sort of cover for the cargo area. not sure what to do - doesn't seem built for one, especially with the 3rd row seats folded up to the side.
5) need to buy another first aid kit for the 'trunk'
6) need to buy an air compressor (12V? 120V?)
7) need to buy a 2" to 1.25" hitch adapter. my bike rack (thule) is 1.25"

Sigh -- bunch of stuff to buy but no more money.

I took the car to a dirt parking lot. 4L and CDL seemed to engage / disengage just fine today.




"Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it." L.Tolstoy
"A government is just a body of people, usually, notably, ungoverned." Shepherd Book
 
Posts: 12683 | Location: In the gilded cage | Registered: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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