This is two separate concrete questions.

1. The front step and walkway to the house has sunk several inches and I want to get it fixed. My research has shown there are two methods. One is slabjacking by pumping in a stone slurry and the second is similar but uses a poly foam. Does anyone have any experience with either method? I hear the poly is usually double the price.

2. We want to get a concrete patio poured. It will be roughly 20x30 in size. Im still in the early process and I want to find out what I need to ask when I get estimates. How much base material do I need? How thick of a pad? Can it be done in one solid pour without large joints? Do I need rebar? Is there anything else I should ask?

The wife does not want a grey square pad. So we will have rounded edges and either have exposed aggregate or some type of stamping or staining. As far as staining goes. Is a stain which is mixed in with the wet concrete better than a stain rolled on after the concrete is poured?

Thanks

I have had two stamped concrete patios poured and they have come in right around $10/square foot. You pick your base color, which is mixed in to the concrete. You also pick a release agent color which they sprinkle in as they do the stamping. You will still have saw cuts for expansion, no way around that. But if you pick a slate pattern it helps hide the cut lines.

The concrete is then sealed (I use super diamond clear) which is a clear coat, not a color.

Yes make sure they put rebar, and a layer of 21a crushed stone under the concrete. Doesn't have to be a super thick layer I don't think, just enough to give it a good base and hold things together.

In for answers. My front steps have sunk a few inches and I was going to attempt it myself but realized the first part of the walkway is attached so I couldn't bottle jack it myself.

here is what I don't understand.

gravity and hydraulics are responsible for settling of the concrete,
why doesn't the settling persist after the correction is completed?

unless you address the water and gravity problems?

Be careful with the stamped concrete pattern you choose.

I went with a stone look that is a subtle pattern and very smooth and once it was sealed it became very slick if there is any moisture on it.

Depending on how much walkway you have it might be cheaper to just have it torn out and re-poured, rather than all that jacking.

The biggest reason steps settle is because steps are built after the house is built. The perimeter is backfilled with loose soil. After the.house is built, the mason then knows the hieght of the landing which gages the rest of the steps and sidewalk.
So he digs out for the footing and pours concrete on loose soil.
Its typical and very common although wrong. Beside steps dont last forever.

No sidewalk should continue under the steps because steps are built first. Unless perhaps the mason figured the length of the steps wrong.

The.mason should tear the steps out and start fresh. He should not use dirt as fill in the center of the steps as it will settle. He.should use the old steps as fill.

Either material you mentioned for jacking will work just fine. While I have not done it, we did investigate in having it done on some airfield pavement and both materials work equally well.

As far as staining concrete, I vote NO. If it chips, fades, etc. you will never be able to match it. It is what it is. Stamping a pattern is doable, but again if you ever need a repair it will never match. Just know this going into it.

If you are going to pour a concrete pad. Please note that soil compaction, density, is everything. That why your walkway sunk. Piss poor compaction and possibly poor soil (clay). I like reinforcement in slabs regardless of size because it will hold it together if it cracks and it will. Welded wire fabric at a minimum. Proper joint spacing cut or troweled (most likely your case) into the concrete is a must. I prefer panels 12-ft and under, but you can go up to 15-20 feet (not recommended). If you do see a crack migrating in the first day or so, find the end of it and drill a 1/4"-1/2" hole as deep as you can. This will intercept the crack and stop it dead in its tracks. Just take a dab of caulk and fill the top 1/4" of the hole. You may want to consider using concrete with fiber reinforcement. This will control minor cracking, but is no substitute for reinforcement. The slab will be hairy for a few years, but it will wear off.