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#DrainTheSwamp
Picture of P229 357SIG Man
posted
I'm replacing a 6x6 deck post...the old one is out, the post hole is 24" deep, cleaned out and tamped...time to install the new post. I'm thinking of putting in a couple of inches of leveling sand and placing a concrete paver in the hole as a footer. Maybe even some gravel packed with sand as a footer for the concrete paver...or should I just mixup a bag of Sakrete and pour a footer?


P226 9 mm
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Posts: 817 | Location: Glen Allen, Virginia | Registered: January 05, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Here's what I did in a similar situation. The idea is to keep water away from the post.

1. Add about six inches of gravel to the base of the post hole and pack it down
2. Place the post in the hole and get it level and straight
3. Pour concrete around the post to fill the hole. Add a bit more to the top against the post. Mound some concrete by the post so water on the post will run away.
 
Posts: 1644 | Registered: October 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of FiveFiveSixFan
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You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.
 
Posts: 6565 | Registered: January 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of YellowJacket
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quote:
Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.


This is what I would do for a deck post.
https://express.google.com/u/0...utm_campaign=8613692



"The frost on the ground probably envies the frost on the trees."
 
Posts: 8487 | Location: Marietta, GA | Registered: February 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is the correct answer.


----------The weather is here I wish you were beautiful----------
 
Posts: 4395 | Location: southern Mn | Registered: February 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
#DrainTheSwamp
Picture of P229 357SIG Man
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by reflex/deflex 64:
quote:
Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is the correct answer.

Agreed, this does sound like the correct answer, however, I'm not sure that I have the skillset to place the standoff in it's proper place so the post is plumb, square, level and in alignment with the second story support girder. The gravel/driveway paver footer will give me the flexibility to shift things around.


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Posts: 817 | Location: Glen Allen, Virginia | Registered: January 05, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by P229 357SIG Man:
quote:
Originally posted by reflex/deflex 64:
quote:
Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is the correct answer.

Agreed, this does sound like the correct answer, however, I'm not sure that I have the skillset to place the standoff in it's proper place so the post is plumb, square, level and in alignment with the second story support girder. The gravel/driveway paver footer will give me the flexibility to shift things around.


There's an app for that, we'll really a Simpson strong tie for that https://www.homedepot.com/p/Si...ase-ABA66Z/100375370




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Posts: 1115 | Location: Ypsilanti, MI | Registered: August 03, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by P229 357SIG Man:
quote:
Originally posted by reflex/deflex 64:
quote:
Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
You might consider pouring the concrete and setting a post standoff into the concrete. Should the post ever rot, you could replace it without digging out the concrete.

This is the correct answer.

Agreed, this does sound like the correct answer, however, I'm not sure that I have the skillset to place the standoff in it's proper place so the post is plumb, square, level and in alignment with the second story support girder. The gravel/driveway paver footer will give me the flexibility to shift things around.


An old fashioned plumb bob is your friend.
 
Posts: 1586 | Location: DFW Texas | Registered: March 13, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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And a level, held in 3 directions.
 
Posts: 4339 | Location: 7400 feet in Conifer CO | Registered: November 14, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Haveme1or2
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My 6x6 are just set and poured. They will last past my life time.
There are fence corners that are still strong 20 years now around my farm.
 
Posts: 347 | Location: Mint Hill NC | Registered: November 26, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by ubelongoutside:
There's an app for that, we'll really a Simpson strong tie for that https://www.homedepot.com/p/Si...ase-ABA66Z/100375370


Exactly what I used.
Pour concrete into a 14" dia sonotube resting on gravel base; 36"+ deep.

Perhaps overkill, but no one ever complained that their deck was "too sturdy".

As far as accuracy of placement goes, gravity (and a plumb bob) is REALLY, REALLY, REALLY stable consistent. Smile


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Posts: 6407 | Registered: September 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of cparktd
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IMO, no sand under a load bearing post. I don't trust it not to shift out with time.



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Posts: 1871 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of arcwelder76
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No sand. No gravel. Nothing but concrete of your choice.

You can do it a number of ways, including letting the concrete set, and drilling a Redhed.

No less than 12" tube, to past your frost line. Local code tables will tell you what that is.

Overbuild, it's actually cheaper.


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Posts: 24743 | Location: Love that dirty water, oh | Registered: June 09, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
#DrainTheSwamp
Picture of P229 357SIG Man
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Haveme1or2:
My 6x6 are just set and poured. They will last past my life time.
There are fence corners that are still strong 20 years now around my farm.

My original posts are over 25 years old...they are rotting out at ground level. When I built the deck, I was able to purchase 12" diameter, 4" thick concrete pads that I placed in the holes, set the posts and filled with Sakrete.


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Posts: 817 | Location: Glen Allen, Virginia | Registered: January 05, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
#DrainTheSwamp
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Maybe I should delay the project by a couple of weeks and order some of these...

https://footingpad.com


P226 9 mm
P229 .357 SIG
Glock 17
AR15 Spikes - Noveske - Daniel Defense Frankenbuild
 
Posts: 817 | Location: Glen Allen, Virginia | Registered: January 05, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of cparktd
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quote:
Originally posted by P229 357SIG Man:
Maybe I should delay the project by a couple of weeks and order some of these...

https://footingpad.com


Last pole barn I helped with we just threw a flat rock in the bottom of the hole. Seems like a free and natural version of that... we had plenty of flat rocks.



Deplorable before deplorable was cool!
 
Posts: 1871 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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https://www.youtube.com/result...+deck+porch++footing





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Posts: 46806 | Location: Henry County , Il | Registered: February 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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