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Optimistic Cynic
Picture of architect
posted
My recently-installed (about a week) Nest is throwing an E102 error (over-current on the W1 wire), and not calling for heat. It is correctly-wired with four signals, Y1, W1, G, and Rh.

I contacted Nest support that went through diagnostic procedures apparently intended to exclude the Nest itself as a causative agent. Their final response was "contact a HVAC guy, there's something wrong with the furnace itself."

My "HVAC guy" is a fine fellow, but he appears to have gone out of business, retired, whatever. So before seeking out a new HVAC repair person, I am turning to the boundless resources of SigForum.

My plan was to pull the Nest and return to the ritetemp 6022 that did a serviceable job for ten years without incident, but I'd like to get the Nest working the way it should (except see below).

Other misc. details that may have relevance: Rh is supplying 27.6VAC consistently, measured from Rh across W1, Y1, and G. Swapping W1 and Y1 changes the error thrown by the Nest to E103 (over-current on Y1), so it appears to actually be happening. The furnace's controller board is not flashing an error, nor are any control board fuses blowing. Furnace is a Carrier natural gas, forced air, unit.

For no other reason than it was easy to do, I connected the C terminal (blue wire coming off the furnace control board). This seems to have made the Nest happy, for now at least, but I am not confident in long-term operation. It did initially go a full week+ without throwing an error, after all.

Any wisdom that could be imparted would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
 
Posts: 6469 | Location: NoVA | Registered: July 22, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
posted Hide Post
Not an HVAC, but 27.6 is within the range for 24v nominal. All a thermostat is a switch that puts 24v on fan and heat/cool. If calling for heat, you should get the same voltage on W as on R.

If you have the wiring to connect C, I would do that and you won't need batteries for your t-stat.

Worse case scenario, if you need heat wirenut RWG together for 20 minutes at a time, this is what the t-stat is actually doing. No temp control, but it will make heat.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 20821 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Carrier's model number?

Have any add-on equipment, humidifier, electronic air filter?
What's the amp draw on W when calling for heat?

Some power stealing stats will act flakey, until a common wire is connected.
The Nest may require a neutral to function properly... I don't know and I'm done searching their buggy website for information.

By connecting the common wire the problems may be resolved, if not,
buy a Honeywell and your problems will disappear.




 
Posts: 10055 | Registered: October 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Optimistic Cynic
Picture of architect
posted Hide Post
As a follow-up, adding the C signal to the Nest has suppressed the error message it was throwing for about 24 hours now.

I'm still uncertain as to why, but I do know a lot more about how a thermostat works than I did a few days ago.

Thanks everyone for your responses.
 
Posts: 6469 | Location: NoVA | Registered: July 22, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by architect:
As a follow-up, adding the C signal to the Nest has suppressed the error message it was throwing for about 24 hours now.

I'm still uncertain as to why,


The C wire is a direct link to the common side of the transformer (24-). So the thermostat has a direct power source (R 24+ and C 24-).

Without C connected, the stat is getting a common from running through components in the furnace which are connected to the common, but adding resistance.

Honeywell WiFi stats require the C connection for operation.




 
Posts: 10055 | Registered: October 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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