I got one of those graco paint sprayers awhile back. I tried it out once and it went disastrously. I'm about ready to try it out again, I need to paint some doors. Any tips for how to be successful with a paint sprayer?

Thanks!

Also, any suggestions for what tip to use for spraying a door?

One tip...use a brush or a roller.

Spraying can be easily learned or even mastered with a little experience.
PRACTICE on cardboard, paper, empty box, scrap wood/metal ... whatever.
Learn to adjust the pressures, then the technique aka how fast and far from the subject.
Every pro painter will adjust and test their paint settings before applying the money coat.
Good Luck.

Is it a HVLP or an airless?

I grew up with a father in autobody so any time a door needing repainting it was popped off the hinges, set on saw horses, sanded, masked, and spray painted. Properly spraying a door will turn out a better product than a roller or brush are capable of.

I'm only familiar with using air compressor powered sprayers, but a quick search on YouTube turned up several "how to" video with over a million views including this one using Graco system:

Link to original video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9IF-FFjSkM

Is it a problem with your sprayer or you painting technique?

What tip are you using?
How many psi of pressure does your sprayer produce?
What type of paint are you spraying?

Spraying can not be mastered quickly.
I have been around auto spraying all my life.
Started as a gopher in 1957 at a hole in the wall auto repair shop that hired school kids to do sanding ,taping and priming.
Worked seven years at ford motor assembly plant in the early sixties.
Been around some good painter and picked up that skill.
The old suction cup spraying is an art.
You watch the curling of paint droplets in front of pattern and adjust your speed.
Till you master this with next pass of half lap you will dry or sag your work.
I have painted many auto years back when I in better shape.
Equipment is much better now and robots edged out all of the old craftsmen in auto plants.

My problems were cured when I switched to the appropriate fluid nozzle for the paint type and viscosity I was using.

Most of these pumps come with a 0.0017 orifice tip, big enough to push latex paint through. Anything thinner will be wasted through a tip that big. You should watch a few youtube videos and get the idea of the technique involved, then practice spraying water onto cardboard.

Consider ‘Floetrol’ as an additive in your paint. It makes it spray better. I sprayed 30 gallons between Mt 3 car garage and basement.

Just a little spray tip knowledge...

When you see them they will be labeled 515, 417, 311 etc etc this is pretty much standardized between the big sprayer companies. Graco, Titan (tips, rather spray guard threads, between the brands are interchangeable)

The first number is 1/2 of the spray fan in inches at a spray distance of 12-18”(read packaging)... 5=10”, 3=6, 4=8 you see where I’m going

The second 2 numbers will be the orifice size...11, 13, 15, 17

Only the thinnest products laquer, vanish, poly etc would need an 11 or 13

Basically all latex paints will say to use a 15-17

They go to “garden hose” sized for elastomeric and hydrostatic products which often require a 25-75 and a much stronger HP pump to apply them

Always refer to the paint manufacturers recomendation of what size tip to use. Easily located in the “how to apply” portion of the label or on the Archetectual spec sheets/TDS on the company website

good tips above.

my first thought was Flotrol, but someone beat me to that.

from watching profesionals:

masking tape what you do not want to paint

use a large shield for floor, ceilings or paint changes. a big piece of cardboard will work in a pinch. how big, the bigger the better, refrigerator box size. use multiple pieces, allow it to dry before moving.

ymmv

Floetrol is a surfactant that extends dry time for flow and leveling

I recommend against it for areas like cabinets and shelves or high traffic areas

It softens the dry and cured film preventing the product from hardening as it should and attracts dirt with normal use, often leaving a “sticky” feeling finish. In high moisture areas it will cause streaks known as a surfactant leach. This is common in modern paints anyway as ethylene glycol has been removed because of EPA regulations and VOC restrictions

IF a product needs to be thinned for it to lay down (due to temp and/or humidity) and give a smooth surface... adding a couple ounces of water per gallon will achieve the same result without degrading the product. Label instructions will give thinning ratios

Penetrol (for oil products) is a different aspect and not to be used in water based finishes