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Coated vs uncoated grass seed? Login/Join 
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Picture of cparktd
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Over seeding lawn. Various strains of Fescue.
Slowly increasing the grass to weed content of my 4 acre. Big Grin. Shade is the biggest hinderance to my grass but I am slowly selectively working on that. It's perfect weather now for sewing fescue here and I thought I might pick up a couple hundred pounds to scatter.

Anyway...
I have always bought the uncoated seed because I thought the thin coating was probably not worth the ~50% cut in actual seed along with a bit of added cost.

With 100# of uncoated seed you get 100# of seed. With the coated you get roughly only 50# of seed and 50# of organic coating.

Water pressure and lawn size doesn't allow for watering.

So, any thoughts?



The older I get, the more I identify with Red Foreman...
 
Posts: 3345 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Get my pies
outta the oven!

Picture of PASig
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I buy uncoated seed from a lawn seed supplier that the pros use.

You do know that this is actually NOT the ideal time to put down seed?

I’ve found out the hard way twice now that the fall is the best time, I planted a section last April/May and it looked great at first but by August was 80% dead.

Plant in late September and the grass gets established then gets through the winter then has good roots for the summer heat.


 
Posts: 27362 | Location: Pennsylvania | Registered: November 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of cparktd
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quote:
Originally posted by PASig:

You do know that this is actually NOT the ideal time to put down seed?



Yes... My bad I guess.
I did put out 100# last fall and it is noticeable now so I wish I had done a lot more then.
Fescue germinates best at about 70 degrees and we are there now so hopefully we have enough rainy weather still to go this spring to benefit.



The older I get, the more I identify with Red Foreman...
 
Posts: 3345 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I've only used a couple of lb of coated. It floats.... On my sand, the seed needs to get into the ground or it will A) die or B) run straight off. THere's 1 low spot that has a slightly different color of grass, I assume that's where all the coated seed ended up.

I've been using Tuff Turf & had good luck with sand/full sun. I have 12 pallets of bluegrass/fescue sod that is in my only barely-shade spot (covered the walkout hill we made, shop on east, house on west). Crossing my fingers I can keep enough water on it to not die in Jul/Aug.
 
Posts: 2832 | Location: IN | Registered: January 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Not a pro but I'd be leaning towards fall if you haven't put it down. Spring seeding requires a lot of water in my experience of seeding an entire lawn from scratch and several seasons of overseeding and repair. I buy my (uncoated) seed from a sod place and buy separate organic matter as needed. You really want the seed to get under the surface a little bit or you have bird food. Ideally you'd till or rake the top layer of soil. It doesn't sound like you're going to do that (or water) so you're going to rely on gravity and nature to do the work. I think it would be a lot easier on the seed in the fall when it will have more time to naturally germinate and no worry of excessive heat. Most of the bluegrass seed (haven't used Fescue) I've planted requires a 2-3 weeks of daily watering to take and then ongoing water the first year to keep it alive. If you miss the schedule your seed dies.
 
Posts: 5690 | Location: CO | Registered: October 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Uncle already!... Cool

I know it's best in fall and having plenty of other irons in the fire and not getting my seed bought yet I think now I will wait till fall again.

Thanks guys...

But if anyone has any input on my question please chime in...



The older I get, the more I identify with Red Foreman...
 
Posts: 3345 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Spinnin' Chain
Picture of Expat
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Minimal temp is 45 degrees, so don't plant/seed if you expect those temps through germination. Anything below that could hinder germination if it's begun.
From what I understand the coated seed is a plus selling point. You don't need to pay for it. My neighbor is a grass seed broker. I live in the grass seed capital valley.
 
Posts: 3158 | Location: Oregun | Registered: August 02, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Power is nothing
without control
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We use coated on a golf course I do some work for, but the purpose is to get fast germination. We want the grass to come in as quick as possible for repairs and such. The style of coated seed we use has a coating that basically absorbs water and keeps the seed moist for longer after watering. Even though we water regularly, it still makes a noticeable difference in how fast the seed sprouts. The coating doesn’t really figure into our fertilization plans much. We can add fert if we want it. Doesn’t really matter if it is pre-applied to the seed or spread separately.

- Bret
 
Posts: 2297 | Location: OH | Registered: March 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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