Check the spark arrester screen over the muffler, throw it away.

Good info to have. I hope we get an update on what worked.

To get a flooded saw started, turn the choke off, hold the throttle wide open, and pull until it starts. You can also use a little ether sans air filter on a wide open throttle. We never had the luxury of waiting until tomorrow. We had to have the saw running immediately.

This is the procedure I follow on my STIHL MS250 (not the MS250c model) when it sits overnight or over several months. As long as I follow this procedure, mine starts with two pulls.

https://www.stihl.com/step-by-step-starting.aspx

I use the STIHL fuel rather than mixing. The STIHL distributor said STIHL fuel tanks should be left with fuel in them so seals don't dry out.

There is a black metal baffle under the cover that can be reversed to aid in cold weather starts.

Exactly this.

had same issue with new MS 261

Dried spark plug, still wouldn't fire up.

Waited about a week and it started right up using the sequence above. It now starts on the fourth pull (3 at full choke, 1 at half choke).

Plus the owners manual suggests starting with chain brake engaged so thats not the problem.

And always leave the switch in the top and off position when not using.

quote:

Originally posted by ShneaSIG:
250s can be touchy about flooding. No more than 3 pulls on full choke, then go to half, no matter if the engine burped or not. If it floods, go off choke and give about 20 pulls.

Let us know what happens. My money is on flooded carb and if not bad spark plug.

Make sure you have a clean air filter, that is usually the problem on mine.

quote:

Originally posted by recoatlift:
I hope we get an update on what worked.

Hey, y'all, I'm back!
Sorry for the delay... I've been out cutting wood.

I headed down to the garage early this morning and tinkered a bit. I pulled the spark plug and it didn't look bad at all. Reinstalled that, yanked the cord a couple of times with the switch still set to "off", then followed ShneaSIG's suggestion.

Two pulls on full choke, then one at half, a burp and a run. I let it idle for a minute (smoking up the garage a little), then shut it down. I ran the early errands, cut the grass, and headed back to the woodpile. I cut all afternoon, running about three tanks through it. I'm back in business.

Thanks, SF!

quote:

Check the spark arrester screen over the muffler, throw it away

I meant to comment on this. Don't and double don't. What on earth are you talking about? That ranks as the dumbest advise I've seen written in a long time. Clean it or replace it as needed, but chuck it no.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:

quote:

Check the spark arrester screen over the muffler, throw it away

I meant to comment on this. Don't and double don't. What on earth are you talking about? That ranks as the dumbest advise I've seen written in a long time. Clean it or replace it as needed, but chuck it no.

Why? I’ve never heard of a fire getting started by a unit that had it removed. If it’s clean, then it doesn’t really matter either way.

I have 2 Stihls (MS 361 and a 192TC), and as long as I immediately click to half choke
at the first hint of a burp, they start like clockwork. I bet its flooded also as sometimes the burp
isn’t super obvious if your not watching for it.

Edit....,Just noticed you got it sorted out. Congrats.

Thanks for the results, I’ve memorized everyone’s advice!

Fantastic! Glad you're back in business! I had a 290 (mighty fine saw) that taught me the hard way to not overuse that full choke position, and the 250s seem to be the same way. Seems like limiting to 2-3 pulls at full choke and then going to half (even if you didn't catch the engine burp) works for most Stihl engines that aren't the "m-tronic" style.

quote:

Originally posted by ShneaSIG:
"m-tronic"

M-tronic... is that this crazy "pull the cord then wait a second for something to happen" setup? This is the first pull-cord engine I've dealt with that has a pause between the pulling of the cord and the rotating of internals.

quote:

Originally posted by vthoky:

quote:

Originally posted by ShneaSIG:
"m-tronic"

M-tronic... is that this crazy "pull the cord then wait a second for something to happen" setup? This is the first pull-cord engine I've dealt with that has a pause between the pulling of the cord and the rotating of internals.

No! Not that wacky business. M-tronic is the computer controlled carburetor. No manual choke or adjustment screws; the on-board computer takes care of everything on the fly.

I was skeptical, but it's actually pretty fantastic. I have a 201 and a 362 with the m-tronic system, and I've used 261s and a 462 with it as well, and they all run excellent. Here in St. Louis, we have a big temperature and humidity differential throughout the year. It's very nice to not have to fiddle with the high and low jets for an optimal configuration every time the season changes.

I don't think m-tronic has made it to the 250, yet. The 250 is a mighty fine saw, by the way. Kind of like an f-150 of the chainsaw world - been around forever and does exactly what you expect of it. They're usually on sale around this time of year if you want to get one to call your own.

The delayed start thingy must be Stihl's latest attempt at an easy start system. That's been a concept they've been attempting for some time now. What they can't seem to understand is that the normal, harder pull start isn't as much of a bother as the extra weight and fragility the additional parts of an easy start system add.

Good to hear it all worked out.

quote:

Originally posted by ShneaSIG:
No! Not that wacky business. M-tronic is the computer controlled carburetor.

Interesting. Not being a routine user, I had no idea chainsaws were that sophisticated now.

That delayed-start setup is a little unnerving.

- - - - - - - -
ETA: pictures, so y'all don't think I'm slacking.



There's still plenty to do. I guess my next learning session has to do with chain sharpening.

quote:

Originally posted by vthoky:


There's still plenty to do. I guess my next learning session has to do with chain sharpening.

Nice haul!

Stihl's 2-in-1 file takes all the mystery out of chain sharpening. You'll be sharpening like a pro in about 5 minutes with one of those.

That does look easy!

Even if this guy talks funny.




Link to original video: https://youtu.be/LlHJYnMBBzA

quote:

Originally posted by vthoky:
That does look easy!

Even if this guy talks funny.




Link to original video: https://youtu.be/LlHJYnMBBzA

It's very effective! I keep a pack of the file refills around (they're pretty cheap), and a stump vice whenever I go playing lumberjack. Depending on what you're cutting, it's a good idea to touch up the chain every tank or two of gas. After a couple tanks, I you'll start to see the cutting performance drop off. Unless you've got a really buggered up chain, once you get a good edge put back on it, you'll only need 2-3 passes to keep the chain fresh and nearly fresh-out-of-the-box sharp.

It sounds like you've been up to enough cutting that unless you've swapped to fresh chains, yours will be due for some TLC, but we're talking a 10-15 minute chore with one of those 2-in-1s. You'll be surprised when you sink it back into the wood - you'll have nice big chips, the saw will ride smoother in the cut, and cut faster. I find it's much the same as a sharp edge on a knife: the sharp edge is more controllable and predicable. If you are finding that you have to help the saw along in the cut, i.e., digging in with the dawgs and levering down, it's probably time to sharpen. You'll notice the saw chips getting smaller and more and more particulate type dust, too, whenever the chain needs a filing.