SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Plumbing conundrum - Sink continues to leak after replacing stem, seat, and spring?
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Plumbing conundrum - Sink continues to leak after replacing stem, seat, and spring? Login/Join 
Fighting the good fight
Picture of RogueJSK
posted
I have a two handle Delta faucet in my master bathroom that has developed a slow drip. By alternating the shutoff valves, I was able to determine that it was the Hot side causing the leak.

Figuring this would be an easy fix, I replaced the internal seat and spring (the obvious culprit), but the faucet continued to drip. I then replaced the stem, but it still continues to drip. And yes, I have the lock nut tightened down, so that's not it.

Now I'm stumped. I've replaced all the serviceable parts on that side, to no avail. What else should I try, before resorting to replacing the whole fixture?

The inside had some slight mineral deposits, but it didn't appear severe enough to affect function. I hit it with some white vinegar and a Q-tip, and got most of it off. Should I try again with something more serious like CLR?

Is it worth swapping the seat and spring again, on the off chance I just had a defective one the first round?
 
Posts: 32506 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Can you swap out the other side & reinstall those parts on the problem side?
 
Posts: 5768 | Location: west 'by god' virginia | Registered: May 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Fighting the good fight
Picture of RogueJSK
posted Hide Post
I could. The parts are the same, just installed in a mirrored fashion.
 
Posts: 32506 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Run into this all the time. Mineral deposits need to be gone before new parts are installed.

Take it apart, clear all water, and use CLR over night to clean it. As a plumber I use much stronger stuff to make the job quick, replace your new parts with newer parts afterward.

If it is a Delta with a tension ring in the cap, you may have to tighten that down to put more pressure on the seal cups.


_________________________________________________

"Once abolish the God, and the Government becomes the God." --- G.K. Chesterton
 
Posts: 3856 | Location: WNY | Registered: April 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Fighting the good fight
Picture of RogueJSK
posted Hide Post
Thanks. I had a sneaking suspicion that the minerals might have something to do with it, but it didn't look (to my untrained eye) like it was bad enough to be the cause.

I'll hit it with CLR overnight. Luckily, I still have enough parts to do it all again.

The lock ring is plenty tight.
 
Posts: 32506 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
“There ya go”. Marshall Sam McCloud
 
Posts: 5768 | Location: west 'by god' virginia | Registered: May 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Step by step walk the thousand mile road
Picture of Sig2340
posted Hide Post
There is an easier answer.

Sell and move.





Nice is overrated

"It's every freedom-loving individual's duty to lie to the government."
Airsoftguy, June 29, 2018
 
Posts: 31440 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: May 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Just replace the entire fixture. They're $60 and not designed to last a lifetime.
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Just for the
hell of it
Picture of comet24
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Just replace the entire fixture. They're $60 and not designed to last a lifetime.


Many of the older ones are made much better than newer ones. Thicker metal and more brass.

FWIW $60 doesn't get you much in a Faucet today.


_____________________________________

Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac
 
Posts: 16397 | Registered: March 27, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by comet24:
quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
Just replace the entire fixture. They're $60 and not designed to last a lifetime.


Many of the older ones are made much better than newer ones. Thicker metal and more brass.

FWIW $60 doesn't get you much in a Faucet today.


$44-78 at lowes depending which one of the single handle ones he has. The body and seats get worn out with use, just like anything else.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Delta...ith-Drain/1000162735
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Fighting the good fight
Picture of RogueJSK
posted Hide Post
As stated at the beginning of the OP, it's a dual handle model.

Besides, I don't see the point in dropping $100+ and spending all the extra time on removal and install of a whole new fixture, if I can fix it in a few minutes with a few bucks worth of parts.

I also don't buy a new car every time the windshield wipers need replacement. Wink
 
Posts: 32506 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
I also don't buy a new car every time the windshield wipers need replacement.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Our government does.
 
Posts: 17235 | Location: Stuck at home | Registered: January 02, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by RogueJSK:
As stated at the beginning of the OP, it's a dual handle model.

Besides, I don't see the point in dropping $100+ and spending all the extra time on removal and install of a whole new fixture, if I can fix it in a few minutes with a few bucks worth of parts.

I also don't buy a new car every time the windshield wipers need replacement. Wink


Well, when a few bucks worth of parts and a few minutes didn't fix it, such as this case, it needs replacement.

Was the valve stem backed all of the way out when you tightened it/installed it.
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Fighting the good fight
Picture of RogueJSK
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by wreckdiver:
Take it apart, clear all water, and use CLR over night to clean it. As a plumber I use much stronger stuff to make the job quick, replace your new parts with newer parts afterward.


Worked like a charm. Thanks wreckdiver!
 
Posts: 32506 | Location: Northwest Arkansas | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Dances With
Tornados
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by RogueJSK:
quote:
Originally posted by wreckdiver:
Take it apart, clear all water, and use CLR over night to clean it. As a plumber I use much stronger stuff to make the job quick, replace your new parts with newer parts afterward.


Worked like a charm. Thanks wreckdiver!


To quote our esteemed dear member, now departed, JAllen, “Nothing beats knowing what you’re doing”.

That’s one of the great things about this forum, somebody is an expert in some field and willingly shares what and how to do.
 
Posts: 11840 | Registered: October 26, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Keep in mind, MOST manufacturers have 10 year to lifetime warranties. I've called Delta for 30 year old parts before and they're happy to send them, shipping paid and everything, even if I'm not the original purchaser, and I have no receipt. They will require you to make sure you have the model identified properly (google). But I agree with the above that mineral deposits are likely the issue if it's new guts.
 
Posts: 345 | Location: Ohio | Registered: September 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Plumbing conundrum - Sink continues to leak after replacing stem, seat, and spring?

© SIGforum 2024