quote:

Originally posted by Balzé Halzé:

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
The Inspection Stations are the biggest destroyer of rotors in VA. They over tighten the lug nuts which warps the rotors. So always make sure the lug nuts are not over tightened.

Don't get me started on that. I actually had to buy a breaker bar and a length of 18" black pipe to use as a cheater in order to loosen up my lug nuts. I was afraid I'd end up snapping one. Darn shop gorillas...

At least Utah did away with the Safety Inspections- now you won't have to check all that shit to renew your registration.

quote:

Originally posted by ulsterman:
I always that that labor was about twice the cost of parts +/-.

Our son has a F150 that the shop wanted about $1200 to do shocks and struts.

For about $500, we did shocks, struts, front and rear brakes and rotors.

After you did the front struts, did you have to realign the truck?

About a year ago my 2002 F150 needed front pads and rotors. I bought the parts on Rock Auto for maybe $75 and took it to my brother who showed me how. 2 monthes who thevrears we’re starting to make noise so I bought the parts again on Rock auto and gave it a whirl on my own. 45 minutes and I was done, as smooth as pudding. I couldn’t believe how easy it was.

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
About a year ago my 2002 F150 needed front pads and rotors. I bought the parts on Rock Auto for maybe $75 and took it to my brother who showed me how. 2 monthes who thevrears we’re starting to make noise so I bought the parts again on Rock auto and gave it a whirl on my own. 45 minutes and I was done, as smooth as pudding. I couldn’t believe how easy it was.

Clarifying. You bought pads AND new rotors for "maybe $75?"

Dealership did my rear brakes on my '15 Subaru Legacy for $350. New rotors and pads. I didn't feel like learning how to mess with the ebrake. It was over 55k so the brakes lasted a while. The fronts are currently at 64k on the original brakes. Those I will do myself for around $150.

Want some "Sticker SHOCK"?

Hang out at a Mercedes, Audi, Porsche or BMW Dealership shop.

The home of several hundred dollar oil changes.

quote:

Originally posted by TMats:

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
About a year ago my 2002 F150 needed front pads and rotors. I bought the parts on Rock Auto for maybe $75 and took it to my brother who showed me how. 2 monthes who thevrears we’re starting to make noise so I bought the parts again on Rock auto and gave it a whirl on my own. 45 minutes and I was done, as smooth as pudding. I couldn’t believe how easy it was.

Clarifying. You bought pads AND new rotors for "maybe $75?"

Yep. Rock Auto has close-outs from time to time at very good savings. I stay out of their “economy” section but am comfortable using parts from their “daily driver” section (I think that’s what it is called). Pads were about 25 and each rotor was about 25. Doesn’t always happen but I got lucky with rotor close-outs that day. Amazon often has comparable prices. If I need parts I shop Amazon, rock auto, and price against local. Local is often double for the exact same part so If I don’t need it now then I’ll order. I’ve been burned once by a DOA alternator, but luckily that was from amazon so they overnighted a replacement and thankfully it’s not hard to swap on the F150.

I don’t do my own oil changes, though. I am 100% incapable of doing it without making a gosh-awful mess. Since the parts would costs me about $12-$15 and any number of places will do it for $25-$30 it’s just not worth making the mess or dealing with the oil recycling to save $15.

I typically pay about $450 for new factory rotors, aftermarket pads (of my choice - Akebono Perf), fluids and labor. Per axle.

I just replaced a wheel bearing assembly on my 2009 Dodge truck. A shop quoted me $400. I bought the part for $140 and was done in an hour. I hate working on cars and nothing causes me to cuss more but I've saved several thousand dollars over the years by doing my own repairs.

Even in the Detroit area it is not uncommon to pay $400ish per half [$400 Front / $400 Rear] for brakes pads & rotors at a shop. Dealer likely even higher yet.

They will mark-up the parts on top of the flat rate pay for labor.

Customer pay work [non-warranty] is very lucrative for repair facilities.

I was quoted $600 for rear pads & rotors on a 04 Buick - I did the work myself for $120 even using the more expensive USA-made new rotors.

Your mileage will vary....

JoeSig

Might as well ask Balzé, how are the brakes holding up?

quote:

Originally posted by Balzé Halzé:

I had brought my '96 Isuzu Rodeo in for its yearly inspection so I could renew the registration and was told the rear brakes failed. They then quoted me the above figure and said if that's good with me, I'd be out the door in no time.

Wait, what? We don't have any inspections here so help me out... The same place that does required inspections also does repair work???

Isn't that a huge classic conflict of interest?

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:

quote:

Originally posted by Balzé Halzé:

I had brought my '96 Isuzu Rodeo in for its yearly inspection so I could renew the registration and was told the rear brakes failed. They then quoted me the above figure and said if that's good with me, I'd be out the door in no time.

Wait, what? We don't have any inspections here so help me out... The same place that does required inspections also does repair work???

Isn't that a huge classic conflict of interest?

Georgia used to require annual inspections too. All the usual crap about how they saved lifes, the world would end if we didn't require them, etc. The fee they could charge didn't cover their time/labor to do it correctly so that shows the motivation.
Then they got rid of them. Nothing changed except the shysters that did inspections to squeeze money out of people had to find a different method.

I just ordered slotted rotors & ceramic pads for all x4 wheels for $200. Take me probably 2 hours of taking my time to put them on.

quote:

Georgia used to require annual inspections too. All the usual crap about how they saved lifes, the world would end if we didn't require them, etc.

Try moving from DFW to Jackson, MS, from required inspections to none. The number of shitty limping along parts falling off broken windshield busted ass cars here, on a per-capita basis, has to be 10X what it was in TX. Probably 100X. It's just incredible, and many of these wouldn't be able to pass inspection and stay on road.

Try tires and pads for a Harley, new touring bikes, rear tire is $350, Front $270, plus mounting, balancing out the door close to $800 with labor, add pads and it's another $300, since the wheels are are off you should get a discount on the brake pad labor but you have to watch the ticket as some dealer systems just automatically add the labor on the job.

I do them myself, 3 sets of pads are $95 and simple to replace, removing the wheels requires a motorcycle jack and it's not difficult.

Finding a shop to mount tires they didn't sell is a bit harder to do with motorcycles.

I did the front brakes on my Eff Juan Fiddy, got better pads and rotors and new bearings for less than half of the cost of the shop. Need to do the rears soon.

I don't like my truck being in somebody's else's shop, waiting behind others to be fixed when I can do it myself. I generally just buy new rotors and pads and do it myself. A few times, I've had the old rotors turned (+-30bucks apiece).

quote:

Originally posted by Balzé Halzé:

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
I am sure someone will be along to ask if they were OEM parts and quote the operating cost of a brick and mortar location. If you have the time and are handy you can save serious money. No question.

I have the quote in hand. I don't know what particular parts they wanted to install were, but the pads they listed were three times as much ($60) as the ones I bought, and the rotors were twice as much ($65) as the ones I bought. ETA: that's for each rotor.

Those prices are in line IF they're using premium brake parts like Wagner Gold. Most good shops will only use premium brake parts because the last thing they want to do is a free brake job because it's squeeling etc.

I had Ford do the rear brakes on my 2008 expedition recently. They charged $199 for pads, turning the rotors and labor. I was fine with that.

quote:

Originally posted by ulsterman:
I always that that labor was about twice the cost of parts +/-.

Our son has a F150 that the shop wanted about $1200 to do shocks and struts.

For about $500, we did shocks, struts, front and rear brakes and rotors.

How did you compress the springs ? I want to change mine.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by Balzé Halzé:

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
I am sure someone will be along to ask if they were OEM parts and quote the operating cost of a brick and mortar location. If you have the time and are handy you can save serious money. No question.

I have the quote in hand. I don't know what particular parts they wanted to install were, but the pads they listed were three times as much ($60) as the ones I bought, and the rotors were twice as much ($65) as the ones I bought. ETA: that's for each rotor.

Those prices are in line IF they're using premium brake parts like Wagner Gold. Most good shops will only use premium brake parts because the last thing they want to do is a free brake job because it's squeeling etc.

I had Ford do the rear brakes on my 2008 expedition recently. They charged $199 for pads, turning the rotors and labor. I was fine with that.

Hmmm, why do I have the feeling of déjà vu?

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