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Green grass and
high tides
Picture of old rugged cross
posted
Planning on laying a kitchen countertop with tile. I am planning on laying it directly on new plywood. Is that a good plan?



"Practice like you want to play in the game"
 
Posts: 19158 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Unmanned Writer
Picture of LS1 GTO
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Tile = grout = extra cleaning + nasties hiding in grout minus, flat surfaces to make dough, pasta, and other type foods.

Wife and I went with a black honed granite but; regardless of what we went with, tile was not an option. She and I had tile kitchens as kids and young adults. Never again for the reasons noted above (to name the obvious).

Oh, and to answer your question; fixing the tile directly to the 5/8 ply will work. Make sure the grout and caulk are such to prevent liquid from getting underneath to the wood. The wood will expand and eventually pop up your tile.






Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.



"If dogs don't go to Heaven, I want to go where they go" Will Rogers



 
Posts: 14034 | Location: It was Lat: 33.xxxx Lon: 44.xxxx now it's CA :( | Registered: March 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Green grass and
high tides
Picture of old rugged cross
posted Hide Post
It is going to be tile. So that is not going to change. I am planning to put the thinset directly on the new plywood. That is what I was wondering about. Thanks guys.



"Practice like you want to play in the game"
 
Posts: 19158 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
quarter MOA visionary
Picture of smschulz
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Planning on laying a kitchen countertop with tile.
I am planning on laying it directly on new plywood.

Is that a good plan?


Not IMO.
I would use a cement underlayment like Hardi-Backer or perhaps Schluter Ditra.
Like anything proper prep is key.
Wood has the huge potential to move and crack aka fail.
 
Posts: 22894 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 11, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Unmanned Writer
Picture of LS1 GTO
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by smschulz:
quote:
Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Planning on laying a kitchen countertop with tile.
I am planning on laying it directly on new plywood.

Is that a good plan?


Not IMO.
I would use a cement underlayment like Hardi-Backer or perhaps Schluter Ditra.
Like anything proper prep is key.
Wood has the huge potential to move and crack aka fail.


Hardi Backer is a good idea however, it's not strong enough to support the potential weight. Installing the backer atop 1/2" ply would work.

If installed on 5/8" and properly sealed with grout and caulk will also work (provided the ply is secured to the cabinets and, the cabinets are secured to the walls and shimmed correctly to ensure nothing moves, shifts, or rocks.






Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.



"If dogs don't go to Heaven, I want to go where they go" Will Rogers



 
Posts: 14034 | Location: It was Lat: 33.xxxx Lon: 44.xxxx now it's CA :( | Registered: March 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
quarter MOA visionary
Picture of smschulz
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by LS1 GTO:


Hardi Backer is a good idea however, it's not strong enough to support the potential weight. Installing the backer atop 1/2" ply would work.

If installed on 5/8" and properly sealed with grout and caulk will also work (provided the ply is secured to the cabinets and, the cabinets are secured to the walls and shimmed correctly to ensure nothing moves, shifts, or rocks.


Of course the Hardi needs to be attached to the subfloor (of adequate thickness) and it would be plenty strong enough.
Hardi alone to rafters would not be smart but if sub floor exists it would be fine.
 
Posts: 22894 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 11, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Unmanned Writer
Picture of LS1 GTO
posted Hide Post
He's doing a countertop, not a wall.






Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.



"If dogs don't go to Heaven, I want to go where they go" Will Rogers



 
Posts: 14034 | Location: It was Lat: 33.xxxx Lon: 44.xxxx now it's CA :( | Registered: March 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
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The plywood will be fine, I'd prefer 3/4" plywood or double the 1/2" with staggered seams, if you already have half inch, but put a very good coat of redguard on it first, which is an excellent waterproofing agent and also has great adhesion properties for the thin set and helps keep the tile/grout from cracking.

https://www.acehardware.com/de...DQodOjoJrg&gclsrc=ds

I had tile on a counter top and hated it. The grout got dirty, couldn't slide anything on it, and stuff wouldn't sit properly on it.
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Green grass and
high tides
Picture of old rugged cross
posted Hide Post
Thanks guys, I am pretty sure it is not half inch. I believe we used 5/8" or even 3/4". Might use the Redgard. But will confirm thickness first.

Thanks again guys.



"Practice like you want to play in the game"
 
Posts: 19158 | Registered: September 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Thanks guys, I am pretty sure it is not half inch. I believe we used 5/8" or even 3/4". Might use the Redgard. But will confirm thickness first.

Thanks again guys.


All of the pro tile guys are using Redguard, it's cheap, easy to work with, but you really want to waterproof the plywood as water will wick through the grout over time, especially around the kitchen sink (ask me how I know, thank you renters!!!)......
 
Posts: 21335 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you're going to go with tile on a countertop, be sure to use Redguard or the likes. Tile is not water proof.
 
Posts: 2679 | Location: The Low Country | Registered: October 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Alea iacta est
Picture of Beancooker
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As mentioned, no way would I go straight to plywood. Screw down a sheet of wonderboard (concrete sheeting) and mortar the tiles to that. Grout well, two days after the tile are laid. Two days after that, seal the grout. A day later, seal the grout again.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cu...ard-GCB60L/203689282



quote:
Originally posted by parabellum: You must have your pants custom tailored to fit your massive balls.
The “lol” thread
 
Posts: 4025 | Location: Staring down at you with disdain, from the spooky mountaintop castle.  | Registered: November 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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^^^ Beancooker hit it on the nose, I have laid alot f tile and this would be my choice.


_________________________________________________

"Once abolish the God, and the Government becomes the God." --- G.K. Chesterton
 
Posts: 3856 | Location: WNY | Registered: April 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
More persistent
than capable
posted Hide Post
Absolutely use waterproofing on top of the Hardi board


Lick the lollipop of mediocrity once and you suck forever.
 
Posts: 1087 | Location: North | Registered: August 27, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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