quote:

Originally posted by barndg00:
I've dealt with mine and my father's Stihl chainsaws. Finally figured out that they seem to flood very easily on full choke. When you first start to pull it on full choke, listen very carefully for any sound of it catching, even just a brief cough. Then put to half choke or even run. Usually starts on the next pull. If you keep pulling past that cough on full choke, it floods more often than not.

Yep, good advice in my experience.

quote:

Originally posted by mod29:
Make sure you really primed the bulb well.

Does not have one.

I can now consistently get it to start.
So I pull the trigger set it all the way down to cold start (one pull to get the burb), move it to the half throttle choke setting and it fires right up.
Now when I pull the trigger slightly to get it in the run position it dies almost immediately.

If I start it again and leave it running in the half throttle position it runs of course but after a little bit I begin to get a ton of white smoke.

The second I hit the trigger to get it in the run position it just dies.
Then the white smoke pours out of it for a couple of minutes while it is off.

Think I am going to have to take it to the pro with my tail between my legs.

Gas is good and next check spark. I would take the air filter off so it can breath better if it is flooding out.

Or maybe you added some of the bar oil to the mix tank?

Rereading the new carb, maybe the gasket is not on straight and is partly blocking the input. Also the new carb may not be set up right. I would read the manual for the setting of the fuel adjustment and reset.

It's too lean. You need to back out the high speed carberator adjustment screw. It's overheating from a lack of lubrication (fuel and oil to cool off the combustion) and the white smoke is the burning of the oil from the super high temps that it's seeing after it shuts off.....synthetic oil burns white or almost invisible. Back off the high speed jet screw counter clockwise about 1/2 a turn from where you're at and you should be close......usually it's about 1 and 1/4 turns from fully seated on the screw as a good baseline to start from. 1/2 choke cuts off some of the air flow and allows it to run with a richer mixture.

Was it the correct carburetor?
Typical problem with Sthil- sits around, gums up carb.
Check adjust screws on carb
Sthil stopped making parts for the older chain saws. E bay only for parts that may not work.

The manual on page 41 only shows the idle adjustment to be 2 turns out from the seat CW.

Also check the exhaust screen and make sure it is not plugged.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
It's too lean. You need to back out the high speed carberator adjustment screw. It's overheating from a lack of lubrication (fuel and oil to cool off the combustion) and the white smoke is the burning of the oil from the super high temps that it's seeing after it shuts off.....synthetic oil burns white or almost invisible. Back off the high speed jet screw counter clockwise about 1/2 a turn from where you're at and you should be close......usually it's about 1 and 1/4 turns from fully seated on the screw as a good baseline to start from. 1/2 choke cuts off some of the air flow and allows it to run with a richer mixture.

Thanks
I'll give this a go tomorrow.

May be the spark arrester which is in the exhaust. Look it up in the manual and replace or remove it.
When it gets carboned up it makes it seem like fuel starvation when you give it any throttle.

Looks like the carb has fixed jets and only has an idle adjustment.

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
Looks like the carb has fixed jets and only has an idle adjustment.

Some stihls have the jet adjustment screws covered with epoxy like material. I know a lot of the newer ones do from various manufacturers because of the EPA. Stihls OTOH need a special tool from Stihl to adjust them. If the jets are non-adjustable, I'd look for a vaccuum leak.

Finally gave up.
Took it to get repaired looks like the clutch is burned up likely what all that hits smoke was.
I guess it is not supposed to look like this


Turns out this is a backlog time for repairs, imagine that. I'll see it in about a month.
Hopefully it is not too much to fix.

Repairs are normally more that saws like that are worth.

quote:

Originally posted by ulsterman:
Repairs are normally more that saws like that are worth.

Which is why I tried to fix it in the first place.

I would get it back, take it apart and give it a good cleaning. The binding is what would not let it run and reach full speed.

Cutters Choice has good prices on parts and chains. Their Lazer chain is some of the best with good steel that stays sharp and is easy to sharpen.

https://www.cutterschoice.com/ShopFrontPage

Looks like the clutch is about $20. Watched a couple videos and it does not look too bad to replace.
Maybe I'll give it a go.

Reward yourself in advance and buy some chains as well. It probably needs a good cleaning from setting and the chain oil gummed up with the saw dust.

I would take it apart first and clean with WD40 and carb cleaner as needed. Clean the gunk out of the bar and oil feed hole with a small blade screw driver. You may not need a new clutch.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 41,