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I was curious to know whether the short reset trigger kits will work as well in older P226s from the late 80s and early 90s, without any extra modifications. Would it work, or would it require changing more parts?

Phillip



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Posts: 328 | Location: NE Georgia | Registered: December 20, 2006Report This Post
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SRT works great in my W. German P226.
 
Posts: 86 | Location: Ohio | Registered: April 13, 2012Report This Post
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The SRT works with my 86 West German P226 (and my 1990 P220) no more parts needed that what comes in the case. If you do any serious shooting schools (MAG or Rangemaster) you will be grateful for the SRT.


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Posts: 16 | Location: Sunny Florida | Registered: June 24, 2005Report This Post
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What they said. I run the SRT in all my Sigs. Functioned perfect in my 1982 P6 as a drop in kit.
 
Posts: 30 | Registered: May 30, 2013Report This Post
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It ended up working great in my '94 226 for sure! I liked it so much that I ordered another SRT kit and installed it in my early 2000s 228!

-Phillip



"Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." --George Washington
 
Posts: 328 | Location: NE Georgia | Registered: December 20, 2006Report This Post
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I installed an SRT kit in a late 80's P226. If you ran the trigger at speed, everything worked great. If you slowly applied building pressure, you could actually decock the pistol with the trigger. You could trip the hammer and then ease the trigger forward, easing the hammer down at the same time.


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Posts: 1677 | Location: Northern Mississippi | Registered: November 06, 2000Report This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by ajp3jeh:
I installed an SRT kit in a late 80's P226. If you ran the trigger at speed, everything worked great. If you slowly applied building pressure, you could actually decock the pistol with the trigger. You could trip the hammer and then ease the trigger forward, easing the hammer down at the same time.


Are you talking about DA or SA? Hammer release mechanism is completely different in each. In DA, the trigger bar "hook" is engaged in the DA notch on the bottom of the hammer. As you pull the trigger the hammer is being cocked by the trigger bar hook and the trigger bar itself is, or should be, camming downward (it bears against the right side extension of the hammer pin for this camming down, so make sure the hammer pivot pin is extended enough on the right side of the frame). Before the point the trigger bar is cammed down far enough to release, the "nub" on top of the trigger bar contacts the sear's right side extension and pushes the sear away from the hammer. Finally the trigger bar is cammed down far enough that its hook exits the hammer's DA notch and the hammer drops (note 1 following).

In SA, things are different. You'll notice as you cock the hammer by hand (the slide would normally be doing this) the trigger moves back - this is due to the trigger bar hook being engaged in the DA cocking notch. However, the hammer is moved aft further than the DA release point and then is only held back by the sear. Note that the trigger bar is already far enough forward that it is cammed clear of the DA notch, so that is not a factor (unless that darn hammer pivot is not extending out far enough!!). Now when the trigger is pulled, the trigger bar nub simply pushes the sear's right side extension forward and releases the hammer.

In both DA and SA, the trigger bar hook also pushes the firing pin block (safety lever) forward so its top nub pushed up on the FPB to clear the firing pin.

Note 1: Okay, back to that previous note. I have found that SIG's short reset kit will sometimes not push the firing pin block up far enough to completely clear the FP. This typically is worse on DA as noted due to the hammer falling just a little earlier than SA, and thus the trigger itself is not quite as far back at hammer release. So, when testing for this, do the test in both DA and SA to be sure.

The test: In SA first, cock the empty gun and push forward on the end of the firing pin with a wood or plastic stick. The firing pin block should clear, allow the FP to move further forward before the trigger stages (you feel the additional pressure of it coming onto the sear).

If the trigger has a lot of creep, then the FPB still should clear before sear release.

Check DA in a similar manner - but hold a bit of thumb tension back on the hammer so it doesn't smack your punch out of the way! The FPB needs to clear the pin to go forward at least at the point of hammer release *no later*.

If FPB clear occurs late, the the gun may still fire as the firing pin notch catches on the edge of the plunger pushing it further clear. This will absorb energy from the pin and can cause FTF which can get worse with wear. It can also damage the FP and FPB plunger internally where it remains unseen.

I have made new safety levers with slightly taller "nubs" for several of my guns. Also TIG welded a bit of additional metal to raise the nub - which works too.
 
Posts: 1139 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Report This Post
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