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I have a 226 in 9mm. I shot it about a month ago without issue,cleaned it and put it in the safe. Today I take it out, and it would not fire. light primer stricks,it almost looks like the hammer isnt going forward enough to make contact with the fireing pin.
Anyone have any suggestions?
When I cleaned it, aside from removing the slide and barrel I pulled the grips off and wiped under them. the springs all look intact.
thanks Kenny
 
Posts: 112 | Location: northern indiana | Registered: December 01, 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Do you have stock grips on the gun?
(Remembered it this time.)

Does the gun have a stainless steel slide, or is it the older formed and welded carbon steel version?




“Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.”
— Leo Tolstoy
 
Posts: 17855 | Location: 10,170 Feet Above Sea Level In Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Grips are original factory plastic, slide is blued, I cant remember the yr of manufacture (kf).
I had the grips off it today. It appears to me the roll pin in the bottom of the main spring isnt making contack with the block (like something is keeping a little tension on the spring)
 
Posts: 112 | Location: northern indiana | Registered: December 01, 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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It seems as if you have an older pistol with removable breechblock and the long mainspring.

As I recall, the mainspring seat roll pin (that fits through the hammer strut) does not normally make contact with the mainspring seat, so I don't believe that has anything to do with the problem.

If you're using stock factory grip plates, that probably eliminates any interference possibilities there.

If the primers are showing at least some firing pin imprint, then there isn't a problem with the safety lock (firing pin block) mechanism.

It's still possible, however, that something is interfering with the hammer or firing pin movement. If the problem hadn't appeared from range session to the next, I would look into the possibility that the mainspring is weak, either because it was replaced with a lower power aftermarket spring or because it was shortened by a previous owner (assuming either is possible).

At this point my guess is that you started using a different type of ammunition with a harder or less sensitive primer.

Depending upon how you clean the gun, you may have allowed oil or solvent to enter the breechblock and firing pin channel. Enough of either can clog things up and prevent free movement of the firing pin.




“Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.”
— Leo Tolstoy
 
Posts: 17855 | Location: 10,170 Feet Above Sea Level In Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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They are different primers(I reload).
I can push the fireing pin block and push the fireing pin out it seems to move freely.
Looks like i'll be ordering a spring kit and an armorers video.
Compairing it to my brothers sig (different model) when the hammer is at rest his sits more vertical than mine. Mine sits like his after he uses the decock.
If you can think of anything else Im open for suggestions
Thanks Kenny
 
Posts: 112 | Location: northern indiana | Registered: December 01, 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I just went and pulled a bullet, using the old primers it goes off every time.
Thanks for the help
Kenny
 
Posts: 112 | Location: northern indiana | Registered: December 01, 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I shouldn't have said that if there was at least a partial firing pin imprint on the primer that you couldn't have a safety lock problem. If the safety lever doesn't push the safety lock up fully, the firing pin might contact the safety lock just a little, causing insufficient striking force. Normally, however, it would be an either/or situation.




“Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.”
— Leo Tolstoy
 
Posts: 17855 | Location: 10,170 Feet Above Sea Level In Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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The primers in question are military surplus that I bought down at knob creek, Im suspecting that they are small rifle primers and not pistol primers.
I took it out and fired a box of 50 thru it with known pistol primers and every shot went off. Which pretty much comfirmed the rifle primer theory.
Now for the million dollar question. Since I have about 200 of these loaded, should I pull all of them or should I buy a factory 21 lb. spring and see if they shoot?
thanks for the help
Kenny
 
Posts: 112 | Location: northern indiana | Registered: December 01, 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If it was me, Id leave the pistol as it is and use different ammo.
 
Posts: 99 | Registered: April 11, 2007Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Kenny, I joined the Sigforum so I could reply to your firing problem. "Surplus" small rifle (removed from 1952 Lake City 30 carbine rounds) were being sold at Knob Creek. The ones I have were all repacked in Winchester small pistol primer boxes). Since they were rifle primers, they are a bit harder than pistol primers (I have a Glock that won't set them reliably off). Also, since they were deprimed, the anvil may be a touch deeper in the primer cup leading them to seat a little deeper in the primer pocket. Both the harder primer and seating a little deeper can lead to the primer not going off. Finally, you have to make sure the anvil is still in place or they won't fire.

For me, they work fine in rifle cases except for Guatemala surplus .223 brass, in which case they sit too deep in the primer pocket.

Recommend try firing all you have reloaded (some will fire for you) and when they don't fire, use that as practice for ftf drills, manually chambering a new round. Pull apart the ones that don't fire to salvage the brass, powder and bullet.

Like I said, I use them for rifles and bought 25,000 of them, they were such a good deal. I would not rely on them for any "serious" purposes.

Bruce
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Florida | Registered: August 22, 2008Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Dae Zee, thanks for the reply. Mine were packed in small pistol primer boxes too, and yes they work great in my 223. After I figured out what I did and sorted out the +- 200 I'd loaded I've not had any more problems.
Thanks again
Kenny
 
Posts: 112 | Location: northern indiana | Registered: December 01, 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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