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Hello Everyone,

I have detail stripped quite a few firearms- but am doing so to a 2012 Sig P220 now- stainless, with milled slide.

I was taught to always drive pins OUT by pressing/tapping the pin from the left side so that it 'popped' out on the right side.

However, I see a few Sig videos that show the opposite directions used: tapping/pushing from the right side to 'pop out' the left.

Before I do any damage, which direction is appropriate?

Do I use the same orientation as my BHP, 1911, S&W, Glock, etc?

or, is it really an issue of press out from right to left, and press in from left to right?

please help me so that I can get everything disassembled for a refinish job.

thank you


Sig P225, P220 Carry Stainless Elite, and a bunch of non-sigs. Smile
 
Posts: 480 | Location: South San Joaquin Valley, CA | Registered: September 21, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I was taught right to left when removing and left to right when installing.
 
Posts: 4741 | Registered: August 18, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Bulldog7972:
I was taught right to left when removing and left to right when installing.


Thank you!


Sig P225, P220 Carry Stainless Elite, and a bunch of non-sigs. Smile
 
Posts: 480 | Location: South San Joaquin Valley, CA | Registered: September 21, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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If the slide has the solid firing pin positioning pin, the pin has crush ridges on the left end as it’s installed. Therefore as stated it should be removed right to left and installed left to right. If the pin is a roll pin, the directions of removal and installation don’t matter.




“Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions … which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.”
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Posts: 38505 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hello,

The pin is the roll pin. Thanks for that tip also.

I am more familiar with older designs, and just wasn't sure if the right to left removal was correct or not.

One last question: does the same right to left to remove rule apply to the sights?

thank you all in advance.


Sig P225, P220 Carry Stainless Elite, and a bunch of non-sigs. Smile
 
Posts: 480 | Location: South San Joaquin Valley, CA | Registered: September 21, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
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One last question: does the same right to left to remove rule apply to the sights?

On removal, it really doesn't matter although the sight was installed from the left so removal to the left may be easier. Sights must be installed left to right because SIG sights have a slight chamfer on the leading corner to help get the sight aligned and started. I hope I made that clear.

SightChamfer by GaryBF, on Flickr
 
Posts: 11202 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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When removing a roll pin from the slide, direction doesn't matter. I find it easier to install right to left (easier for me to push the fp forward while driving the pin in) but again, it doesn't matter.


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Master-at-Arms
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If it matters remember to use the punch as a pin as you drive it through to hold everything in place until you are prepared for it all to come apart.



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Posts: 6948 | Location: Stuck in NY, FUAC  | Registered: November 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The older style, solid pin, is extremely difficult to remove and put a new one back in. The Germans were not thinking of having to remove that pin, much.
 
Posts: 600 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Solid pins are tight, no question. I use a method that works well. I put the slide in a padded vice with the pin close to the vise jaws. The allows me to hold the cup tip punch horizontally, resting the hand holding the punch on the vise. This keeps the hand steady and more easily keeps the punch perpendicular to the slide and in column with the pin.

Hit the pin with the hammer moderately hard only once, then check punch is on pin end prior to hitting again harder if need be, repeat striking only once each time - this avoids the goof where the punch slips off the pin and then gets whacked!

I have a Sunnen BP-10 pin press in my shop (much sought after but no longer made! :c) but have never needed to resort to it (mainly cause the shop is 10 miles from my gun room).

The above works well for the notoriously tough P938 trigger pivot pin as well.
 
Posts: 1194 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by bumper:
Solid pins are tight, no question. I use a method that works well. I put the slide in a padded vice with the pin close to the vise jaws. The allows me to hold the cup tip punch horizontally, resting the hand holding the punch on the vise. This keeps the hand steady and more easily keeps the punch perpendicular to the slide and in column with the pin.

Hit the pin with the hammer moderately hard only once, then check punch is on pin end prior to hitting again harder if need be, repeat striking only once each time - this avoids the goof where the punch slips off the pin and then gets whacked!

I have a Sunnen BP-10 pin press in my shop (much sought after but no longer made! :c) but have never needed to resort to it (mainly cause the shop is 10 miles from my gun room).

The above works well for the notoriously tough P938 trigger pivot pin as well.


Thanks for sharing. I've mushroomed several punches and pins, trying to pound them out and/or back in.
Just got back from an armorer class. Instructor said that the solid pins can be replaced with the spiral pins, which are way more easy, but they will not last as long as the solid pins.
 
Posts: 600 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Unflappable Enginerd
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Originally posted by dpadams6:
Thanks for sharing. I've mushroomed several punches and pins, trying to pound them out and/or back in.
Just got back from an armorer class. Instructor said that the solid pins can be replaced with the spiral pins, which are way more easy, but they will not last as long as the solid pins.
Don't know where that comes from, the spiral roll pins(single) are far less likely to break because they can flex, solid pins, not so much. I've replaced a LOT of broken solid pins(milled slide), and a fair number of double roll pins(folded carbon steel slide). Never seen a broken spiral roll pin(single), I'm sure they can break, just never seen one.


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Posts: 3809 | Location: Headland, AL | Registered: April 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I broke the solid pin on my P220ST, I still believe it was the harmonics from dry firing that cracked it. This was a fairly frequent break down on the early P220ST pistols.

I seem to remember that Sig would press in the replacement pins. I drove mine in and still have a ugly scar on the slide from a missed/slipped punch, they are in there TIGHT!
 
Posts: 3048 | Location: Chicago, IL, USA: | Registered: November 17, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by stoic-one:
quote:
Originally posted by dpadams6:
Thanks for sharing. I've mushroomed several punches and pins, trying to pound them out and/or back in.
Just got back from an armorer class. Instructor said that the solid pins can be replaced with the spiral pins, which are way more easy, but they will not last as long as the solid pins.
Don't know where that comes from, the spiral roll pins(single) are far less likely to break because they can flex, solid pins, not so much. I've replaced a LOT of broken solid pins(milled slide), and a fair number of double roll pins(folded carbon steel slide). Never seen a broken spiral roll pin(single), I'm sure they can break, just never seen one.

Amorer Instructor working for Sig Sauer
 
Posts: 600 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Like a party
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As I remember, Out= right to left
IN= right to left
 
Posts: 3048 | Location: Chicago, IL, USA: | Registered: November 17, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Unflappable Enginerd
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quote:
Originally posted by dpadams6:
quote:
Originally posted by stoic-one:
quote:
Originally posted by dpadams6:
Thanks for sharing. I've mushroomed several punches and pins, trying to pound them out and/or back in.
Just got back from an armorer class. Instructor said that the solid pins can be replaced with the spiral pins, which are way more easy, but they will not last as long as the solid pins.
Don't know where that comes from, the spiral roll pins(single) are far less likely to break because they can flex, solid pins, not so much. I've replaced a LOT of broken solid pins(milled slide), and a fair number of double roll pins(folded carbon steel slide). Never seen a broken spiral roll pin(single), I'm sure they can break, just never seen one.

Amorer Instructor working for Sig Sauer
Don't get me wrong, I believe he told you that, my experience just doesn't bear that out. I would personally rate their service life from shortest to longest as; solid FPPP, double roll pins, spiral roll pin. Sample size of, ummm, a LOT.

Maybe they see something the rest of us don't...


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Posts: 3809 | Location: Headland, AL | Registered: April 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank you all.

I think mine was a roll pin, but don't remember it being spiral.

I appreciate the feedback!


Sig P225, P220 Carry Stainless Elite, and a bunch of non-sigs. Smile
 
Posts: 480 | Location: South San Joaquin Valley, CA | Registered: September 21, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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