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I have a 229, M11, and two 227s a carry and reg with TB. Both 227s seem to have some roughness....the 229 and M11 are glass smooth
This is for the heavy first 10lb pull. In examining, I think the issue is the main spring strut rod angle and the way the spring may be rubbing on strut rod, not the trigger bar to hammer area. I tried wedging a piece of teflon plastic I had handy between frame and spring to straighten it out so spring was not bowed on the strut, and the pull was smoother...but not sure with grips off. Am I right, and is there a fix? Thanks in advance
Posts: 4 | Registered: October 04, 2013Report This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
Picture of GaryBF
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The hammer strut is stamped from sheet metal and may have some rough edges. Don't be afraid to take a file to it. If the bright edges bother you, just apply some cold blue.
Posts: 11101 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Report This Post
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I did take a quick look, it looked smooth. I have a suspicion now that it is the hammer trigger bar contact point interface. Top Sig guys?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: charlie6,
Posts: 4 | Registered: October 04, 2013Report This Post
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On the few classic P-series pistols which I did an "action job" on, I dry fired them about 50- 100 times then disassembled them. I checked for any wear on the trigger, trigger pivot pin, trigger bar, firing pin safety lock, safety lever, ejector, sides of the sear, sear pin, hammer, hammer pivot pin, and hammer strut.

I stoned most of those pieces, a slight amount, where I observed wear and on any sharp edges which they have. I used as fine of a gunsmithing stone as I could find. I cold blued each piece I had stoned. The only exception to stoning was on the various pivot pins. I put on a light coating of tooth paste. I reassembled the pistol and dry fired it again about 50- 100 times.

I disassemble the pistol, clean the pivot pins and cold blue them. The other parts I check for "new" wear, stone slightly as necessary, cold blue, reassemble and dry fire again.

Once a particular part/ area doesn't show any "new" wear, I stop stoning it. Whatever parts still show wear I keep going through the above process until there is no new wear.

I also very carefully stone the interface between the sear and the trigger to smooth out any fine machining marks that are left.

The pistols come out significantly smoother.

This method does not remove trigger take up, staging, or lighten the trigger pull. Someone who is more knowledgeable than I will be able to provide info on those procedures.

As I said this is a long, slow process. DO NOT RUSH IT. Do not take any metal off the frame or slide. Only work on the internal parts.

As I recall, I put in about 30- 40 hours over the course of a few weeks to do the above work.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 10-7 leo,

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Posts: 1571 | Location: Central Va. | Registered: September 03, 2008Report This Post
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Pop the sear spring leg off the frame pin so it doesn't apply pressure on the sear. Put slide back on and dry fire (it will be DA only since the sear hook won't easily catch on the hammer ledge without the spring pressure. This won't hurt gun in slightest). Does it feel a lot smoother now when you pull the trigger? The sear won't be dragging on the hammer without the sear spring under tension.

If so, it's likely the sear face rubbing roughly against the hammer face as the hammer is pulled back. Slather both faces with grease/oil, mount the sear spring leg back under frame pin and try again. If still rough with lots of lube, then check the hammer area under sear hook" and/or less likely the sear face for roughness. Do NOT touch actual sear hook/hammer ledge, just areas hammer and sear make contact and ride against each other as the hammer gets pulled back before the sear hook engages hammer hook. There's a lot of contact pressure between these two hardened faces so it can transfers a rough "feeling" when you pull really slow.

If not, it's more likely the contact points of the trigger bar and trigger or less likely, the mainspring/hammer pivot and contact points.
Posts: 3901 | Location: Boise, ID USA | Registered: February 14, 2003Report This Post
Picture of bumper
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What 10-7 leo said will do.

You can also do a quick test to feel different parts of the action without disassembly:

Dry fire, while holding trigger back full, push hammer forward and hold it there. Now cycle the trigger . . . you will be feeling the trigger, trigger bar, and at the end of the trigger stroke, the sear spring and that is all. Roughness, if any will be in those parts.

Now hold the trigger back fully and thumb the hammer back and forth, any roughness you feel is from the hammer sides against the frame, hammer pivot, or hammer strut and mainspring.
Posts: 1188 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Report This Post
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