I have a Sig replacement barrel that fits perfectly in the slide, but when I go to install the slide on the frame it will go almost all the way on, but hits a brick wall. Maybe the feed ramp is too long? Any advice or any videos to watch? Thanks
PS: It's a P239 9mm if it matters.
It could be one of several issues.
There are different versions of barrels depending on which pistol you have, the P229 being an example. If you don't get the correct barrel to match your locking insert, it's never going to work.
Another issue, which is most likely to only occur if you have an aftermarket barrel, is the locking lug on the barrel is too long and hits the locking insert.
If the only issue is the locking lug being too long, that can be fixed by using a stone. Keep the bottom of the lug flat against the stone as draw the lug across the stone. Go slowly and try to reassemble the pistol often. When you can reassemble the pistol without feeling any interference with the locking insert, you are GTG.This message has been edited. Last edited by: 10-7 leo,
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I used a BarSto video and (I'm 90% sure) a video from Chris O./Moderator and between the two - I found each portion of the barrel that needed tweaking ever so slightly until all was well.
this was with an aftermarket barrel that wasn't supposed to be "drop-in", but needed fitting, so it would be tight and perfect.
I have found that when I see this issue, it is usually the barrel hood. It may see like it is fitting the slide perfectly, but may not be seating in fully. It doesn't take much for the feed ramp to not clear the locking insert.
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I had one aftermarket barrel that was a couple of thousandths too large in diameter. It would fit through the slide muzzle hole but did not have the clearance to allow the breech to go fully upward into lockup. Chucked it in the lathe and hit it with 320 abrasive.
DyKem is helpful. Usually the forward edge of the barrel hood is adjusted to allow the barrel to go fully up into the slide. Adjusting the back of the barrel hood is generally not advisable, though it has the same effect on barrel going into lockup as the forward edge of the hood, it also reduces cartridge head space and extractor engagement.
Once the barrel fits into the slide and locks up properly, the next part of the fitting is bottom of barrel lug to locking insert. Again, paint bottom if lug with DyKem. Keep slide upside down and install barrel without recoil spring and guide rod. Install slide on frame, still upside down - - the idea is it gives you a better feel without fighting the spring. Remove, see where DyKem has worn of the lug. Take a light stroke or two with file, re-apply DyKem and try again.
One way to check this is to put the slide together, barrel, guide rod and spring. Put a laser in the barrel and see if the laser and the sights are reasonably aligned while looking through the sights. If the laser is pointing above the sight alignment, the barrel is not being fully seated upward. Just ahead of the chamber you can remove a bit of metal off the round part of the barrel (larger round section) until the laser aligns with the sights. Check often as it may go on before the sights align perfectly with the sights. If it still doesn't go on and the laser and sights align, then work on the bottom of the feed ramp.
Go slowly in both cases, checking to see if it will assemble properly; easier to take a little more off than to have to put some back.
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Great suggestion! Thanks...
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