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Smoothing the DA trigger on my P220? Login/Join 
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posted
How do I smooth the DA trigger pull, what surfaces do I need to polish? Lighter springs will lighten the trigger pull, but will not smooth it. Are there any videos on this?
 
Posts: 141 | Location: United States | Registered: January 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
Picture of sigfreund
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Sorry I cannot answer your question but a lighter mainspring can actually make a trigger stroke seem smoother because it reduces the pressure between parts: Less pressure = less friction = seemingly smoother.

I have long been convinced that when someone talks about how his trigger pull got smoother after a couple of hundred rounds it’s because the mainspring lost some power during that initial use and not that that much wear of the surfaces occurred. If enough metal got removed by operating the trigger a couple of hundred times to make a noticeable difference in roughness, how much metal would be left after a couple of thousand times?




“Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions … which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.”
— Leo Tolstoy
 
Posts: 36192 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
Picture of GaryBF
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Several parts in the firing cycle are stamped sheet metal which may have rough edges. You will do no harm by cleaning up the edges of the trigger bar, hammer strut, safety lever, etc. Just do not remove enough material to change any contours or dimensions. I would leave the hammer and sear surfaces to the professionals, although you can always buy replacement parts if you don't. Also make sure the parts are lubricated.

While I agree with sigfreund to a degree, I believe there may be micro burrs on some parts that will break off or wear with use.
 
Posts: 10490 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks
 
Posts: 141 | Location: United States | Registered: January 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Casuistic Thinker and Daoist
Picture of 9mmepiphany
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quote:
what surfaces do I need to polish?

There was a local shop that used to do SIG actions, they told me there were 23 surfaces that they polished.

I didn't feel the need to inquire further




No, Daoism isn't a religion



 
Posts: 12870 | Location: northern california | Registered: February 07, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Just finished my first trigger job, I just Flitz-polished all surfaces that were touching (worn bluing), kudos to GrayGuns spring kit and P-sait trigger, I now have an incredibly smooth DA, it's hard to believe all that polishing could make that much difference. I couldn't be happier, Thanks to all for the comments that helped me do this.
quote:
Originally posted by GaryBF:
Several parts in the firing cycle are stamped sheet metal which may have rough edges. You will do no harm by cleaning up the edges of the trigger bar, hammer strut, safety lever, etc. Just do not remove enough material to change any contours or dimensions. I would leave the hammer and sear surfaces to the professionals, although you can always buy replacement parts if you don't. Also make sure the parts are lubricated.

While I agree with sigfreund to a degree, I believe there may be micro burrs on some parts that will break off or wear with use.
 
Posts: 141 | Location: United States | Registered: January 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
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Enjoy your P220.
 
Posts: 10490 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
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Congratulations on taking the leap. Flitz on cleaning patch/Q-tip is what I've used on all my Sigs. On some surfaces, I'll use a Hard Arkansas stone (very very fine), which is more polishing than stoning.

After I'm through I'll play with RP mainsprings. Generally, it's safe to use a 19# rather than factory 21# for my P226 and P229's. Always test with carry ammo though.


______________________
An expert is one who knows more and more about less and less until he knows absolutely everything about nothing. --Nicholas Murray Butler
 
Posts: 3535 | Location: Northeast | Registered: June 29, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You could send it to Sig for an action job
 
Posts: 390 | Registered: July 13, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
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quote:
Originally posted by 9mmepiphany:
quote:
what surfaces do I need to polish?

There was a local shop that used to do SIG actions, they told me there were 23 surfaces that they polished.

I didn't feel the need to inquire further


Yep. I will gladly pay SIG to do AEP. My cursing and throwing things is worth far more than the cost of them to do magic and I am way too impatient to try Bruce Gray.



Jesse

A couple SIGs and a few others
 
Posts: 7990 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You can do an easy test to "separate" parts of the fire control group to see where the "un-smooth" is.

Dry fire, hold trigger back, push and hold hammer forward all the way. Now cycle trigger back and forth - this tests smoothness of trigger, trigger bar, trigger bar spring, sear, safety lever and firing pin block plunger.

While holding trigger back, manually cycle hammer - this tests smoothness of hammer, hammer strut, and mainspring.

This simple test is not 100%, though almost so and can help isolate where the gritty or interference friction points are that need attention.
 
Posts: 1118 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by sigfreund:

I have long been convinced that when someone talks about how his trigger pull got smoother after a couple of hundred rounds it’s because the mainspring lost some power during that initial use and not that that much wear of the surfaces occurred. If enough metal got removed by operating the trigger a couple of hundred times to make a noticeable difference in roughness, how much metal would be left after a couple of thousand times?



I typically don't see huge changes in smoothness over just a couple hundred presses unless something is really rough. But over the course of regular use, I do find significant action smoothing. And it's smoothing that remains even after putting new stock mainsprings back into the guns. FWIW.


quote:
Originally posted by bumper:
You can do an easy test to "separate" parts of the fire control group to see where the "un-smooth" is.

Dry fire, hold trigger back, push and hold hammer forward all the way. Now cycle trigger back and forth - this tests smoothness of trigger, trigger bar, trigger bar spring, sear, safety lever and firing pin block plunger.

While holding trigger back, manually cycle hammer - this tests smoothness of hammer, hammer strut, and mainspring.

This simple test is not 100%, though almost so and can help isolate where the gritty or interference friction points are that need attention.



Really good stuff!
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Colorado | Registered: March 14, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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