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Sig P6 Rehab... SRT/Hammer Question Login/Join 
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posted
All,

Good day.

I am in the process of rebuilding a P6 that I purchased several years ago and has been sitting in my safe.

What I have done so far is:

- Completely disassembled the frame and slide and have thoroughly cleaned all parts,
- Inspected all parts for wear, breakage, fatigue, etc.
- Replaced the following parts:
* Grips (Hogue G10 Checkered)
* Decocking Lever Spring
* Trigger Spring (original style)
* Hammer Struct Assembly (Wolf 19 lbs. spring, short new style mainspring seat, new E2 strut)
* SRT Kit (new decocker, new sear, and new safety lever)
* Sear Spring
* Slide Catch Lever Spring
* Solid Guide Rod
* Recoil Spring
* Firing Pin Spring
* Trijicon HD XR Sights

- Reassembled the pistol DRY to check function and dry fire it 30-40 times to induce some wear

I plan lightly buffing (dry felt buffing wheel on a Dremel) to address any rough spots on the trigger bar, slide catch, etc. revealed by the dry firing.

I do intend to very, very lightly stone the sear and the hammer to try to smooth out the trigger pull some.

After watching the OpSec Training Armorers DVD, I am wondering if I should not change the hammer to the new type for safety reasons due to the installation of the SRT Kit.

What say you?

If I should change it, what is the correct part?

I would be bummed if I have to do it as I like the look of the old P6 Hammer.

After all of this, I may send the gun to Sig for reblueing or to CCR.

So far there is a marked improvement in the function and look of the pistol. The amount of dried, sticky, tan, baby-poo looking stuff that was inside this thing was amazing.

Thanks in advance...


The "Boz"
 
Posts: 931 | Location: Central Ohio, USA | Registered: May 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
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Any idea how much your P6 was fired? Since the sear and hammer wear together as a set, some believe it is best to change both at the same time. Otherwise you may not get optimum contact of the sear/hammer surfaces. It is your call. The correct replacement would be any P220/P225/P226/P228/P229 hammer.
 
Posts: 11508 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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GaryBF...

I have no idea how much the gun was fired. The rails of the frame are damn near pristine.

There are quite a few smileys on the barrel. There is a large (width) smiley that is almost a .25 inch thick near the end of the barrel on the top of the barrel and one at the end of the barrel on the bottom.

The barrel hood almost appears to have been polished by someone.

The lugs on the barrel look sharp and unworn.

Again... No idea.

Bummer... I was hoping to keep the P6 hammer.


The "Boz"
 
Posts: 931 | Location: Central Ohio, USA | Registered: May 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
Picture of GaryBF
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Boz
You don't have to change the hammer. I gave you one school of thought. Use your judgement. If the original hammer looks good, give a try and see how it feels.
 
Posts: 11508 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Greymann
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It seemed to me that the sig srt sear felt smoother with a new hammer compared to using srt sear with old tool steel hammer. I believe that there is a slight difference in the sear angle between the two.
 
Posts: 519 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: March 21, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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GaryBF...

If the hammer is common among all those pistols, then I will just pick one up and try it. I have most of those pistols (except the 229), so having a spare, if it is actually not needed for increased safety or improve the action, is not a bad thing I guess.

Greymann...

From what I have been able to find, the smoother feel may have to do with the hammer's "super" coating from Sig.

Is the new hammer a MIM part? From what I can find, sounds like it may be.

I will place an order with MGW today as they appear to have the new hammer in stock.

I will try each hammer and see which has the more "meaty" engagement with the sear and which feels better after stoning.

Still bummed that I may have to stick with the new hammer though.

Besides Numrich, TGS, MGW, Midway, and Brownells, who is another good source for parts for older Sigs?

Thanks fellas...


The "Boz"
 
Posts: 931 | Location: Central Ohio, USA | Registered: May 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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When installing a Short Reset kit (SRT), the new MIM sear will seldom mate perfectly with the original hammer, or with a new hammer for that matter. I true up and remove a little for the positive sear engagement angle (to reduce SA pull weight) using a Power Custom 2 fixture.

When GGI has there tool steel SRT sear in stock, this procedure isn't needed as their sear is about as perfect as can be.

 
Posts: 1214 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bumper...

Thank you.

I was not aware of that stoning fixture. How do you like it?

I need to get one of those as I would like to clean up the sear/trigger engagement on this and several other Sigs.

Looks like they are currently on backorder at Brownells. Going to look around the web for this and others like it.


The "Boz"
 
Posts: 931 | Location: Central Ohio, USA | Registered: May 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Here's a link for a sear stoning fixture.

http://powercustom.com/store/i...info&products_id=116
 
Posts: 519 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: March 21, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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