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Why won't my slide lock back after last shot fired? Login/Join 
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Thank you for the sticky.
This really is good information.


"It is easier to fight against a loss than to ever get it back after you lose it. " Joe Nava
 
Posts: 409 | Location: Southern Kansas | Registered: September 20, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Awesome. Glad to see this is a sticky.


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Posts: 5326 | Location: The Virginia side of DC | Registered: February 20, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I carry a P220ST on duty for the past three years. After the first year I noticed that the slide would not lock to the rear on the last shot. BTW I am a left handed shooter. It happened on each magazined (5 mags) that I carry on duty. I contacted Sig and they sent me new magaizine springs. That fixed the problem.

Well here we go again, while shooting during a tactical exercise my slide would not lock to the rear.

I am glad I found this post. I examined the slide lever catch spring and I adjusted it by bending the end up. As of right now the slide is locking to the rear.

My confidence in the P220ST for patrol duty was in question. Hopefully this fixes the problem.

On another issue I found that if I use the range ammo (reloads) the P220ST is prone to double feeds. I buy factory reloads from the gun show and I have not experienced any failures.

After spending 20 years in the USMC I have seen issues with the Berreta M9 / 92F (cracked locking blocks and barrels).

I purchased my P220ST in January of 2005 with a serial number of G354***

I am not a big fan of having to replace the magazine springs every year. I have a P245 that I carry off duty and it is loaded all the time and I have no issues with the slide not locking to the rear.
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Oceanside, Ca. | Registered: February 15, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Legalize the Constitution
Picture of TMats
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Glad this is here. I've got a 229 and 8 mags that I bought lightly used. No slide lock no how. It's definitely my thumb position; too many years shooting 1911s with my right thumb resting on the thumb safety. I realized my right thumb just naturally gravitated to the slide release. Here's hoping that as I break this habit with my Sig that I'm able to go back to 1911s without a problem.


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Posts: 13166 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: January 10, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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...and I just thought I wasn't cleaning my 239 well enough between range visits.

After reading this thread (thanks for the sticky), it was definitely my thumb. Now, if I could just find somewhere else to put it!

Thank you, Chris, for the OP.
 
Posts: 1962 | Location: Front Range CO | Registered: April 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Cisco Kid
Picture of DesperAuto
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Great thread, thanks Chris! I've been having this problem sporadically with all my mags on an older 239/.40 (SN: SA 4-79 4xx) that I bought used several years ago.

quote:
Originally posted by drmac:
the block comes out an the spring is just sitting there. it goes back in the same way you pulled it out.


You forgot to mention that the trigger pin has to be aligned correctly to get the block back in. I fiddled with mine for a while before I figured that out. But thanks for letting me know it was so easy.

I got a parts kit from TopGunSupply.com for my 239 and was stuck on this spring, as well as the firing pin positioning pin. I've yet to do the pin. Any advice?

**EDITED**

Never mind. I'm not going to touch the pin unless it breaks, on very good advice.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: DesperAuto,



 
Posts: 4314 | Location: Snohomish, WA | Registered: June 02, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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We just got back from the range after firing my new P226R. I had no lockback failure, but my son had consistent problems with the slide not locking back. All the guys on the range gathered round to see if they could diagnose the problem. He wasn't touching the slide lock lever. My grip is a little different from his, in that I have my L.H. thumb on top of the right thumb and my left index finger is curled around the front of the trigger guard, where he holds it with the left thumb further to the front and his left index finger is curled around the right hand and the grip. Even with a one-handed hold, the slide would lock back for me.

The range master ran into the shop and came back with a bottle of oil and we put more lubricant on it, and his problem went away, but it was quite a mystery.
 
Posts: 9 | Location: California, U.S.A. | Registered: May 27, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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quote:
Originally posted by AlyoshaK:
quite a mystery.


If something doesn't interfere with the slide catch lever, the most likely cause of a slide lock failure is because the slide doesn't move back far enough to be engaged by the slide catch lever when the magazine is empty. That's usually due to low-powered ammo, but dirt or insufficient lube can contribute to the conditions that make it possible. Another thing that can contribute is allowing the gun to move too much during recoil. This is usually referred to "limp-wristing," and is more likely to occur when a small or weak person is shooting the gun.

I would guess that when you fired the gun you were holding it firmly enough to permit it to function properly. When your son was shooting, his grip was weaker, but the extra lube compensated for that and eliminated the problem.




6.4/93.6

“Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.”
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Posts: 47365 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Well I have this same issue on both of my new P226ST's - bought from a dealer in NY and he sent them to me here in CA with 10rd mags - when I first took the guns out to "play" with them, I noticed that the slide did not lock back on an empty mag, the slide lock lever was not moving upwards due to the little arm that contacts the follower being .060" shorter than the arm on my specifically CA/10rd P226DAK. Swapping the slide lock lever from my older DAK fixed the problem. I called Sig and they confirmed that there are two different slide lock levers, one for CA and one for the Free States...designated with an "M" at the end of the part number. A week later I received the replacement lock lever in the mail, but upon opening I found that it's exactly the same as the one that shipped with the guns. Called Sig again to try and figure out if I was shipped the wrong part, or if it was a mis-package and was told that the only difference between the two lock levers is that the "M" lever has a small cutout on the bottom of the contacting arm...not that there is an actual length difference - odd thing is my DAK lever does not have this cutout. I think I explained well enough to the tech that there is a visual and measurable difference in length of the arm - and was basically told that I need to send the guns back to Sig for them to figure this out.

Sorry for the long post, just hoping that someone has run into this before and knows what is going on and can maybe save me having to ship the guns back.

Part I got from sig: 34260120M

Pictures:
Old DAK lever


New "M" lever
 
Posts: 35 | Registered: June 23, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bueller? Bueller?
 
Posts: 35 | Registered: June 23, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Some good info here.............. Smile
Thanks for the post.
 
Posts: 1183 | Location: Tennessee | Registered: June 24, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Yokel
Picture of ontmark
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quote:
Originally posted by MT1:
Well I have this same issue on both of my new P226ST's - bought from a dealer in NY and he sent them to me here in CA with 10rd mags - when I first took the guns out to "play" with them, I noticed that the slide did not lock back on an empty mag, the slide lock lever was not moving upwards due to the little arm that contacts the follower being .060" shorter than the arm on my specifically CA/10rd P226DAK. Swapping the slide lock lever from my older DAK fixed the problem. I called Sig and they confirmed that there are two different slide lock levers, one for CA and one for the Free States...designated with an "M" at the end of the part number. A week later I received the replacement lock lever in the mail, but upon opening I found that it's exactly the same as the one that shipped with the guns. Called Sig again to try and figure out if I was shipped the wrong part, or if it was a mis-package and was told that the only difference between the two lock levers is that the "M" lever has a small cutout on the bottom of the contacting arm...not that there is an actual length difference - odd thing is my DAK lever does not have this cutout. I think I explained well enough to the tech that there is a visual and measurable difference in length of the arm - and was basically told that I need to send the guns back to Sig for them to figure this out.

Sorry for the long post, just hoping that someone has run into this before and knows what is going on and can maybe save me having to ship the guns back.

Part I got from sig: 34260120M

Pictures:
Old DAK lever


New "M" lever



I also bought a new 226 in Calif, 10 round mag law. Gun shop ordered it. It came with 12 round magazines. At time of DROS they swapped out the twelve round magazines with ten round magazines. Slide did not lock open. Looking at Magazines on the SIG Site, when enlarged the picture shows the 12 round mag having a protrusion for the Slide Stop Lever, where the 10 round mag has this area rounded off. Called SIG customer service and they shipped me four followers part number off the 12 round mag for free. Installed them and it works fine, No it didn't change the capacity actually has made it easer to load the last round with speed loader. How have room in Mag for 10 and a half rounds.

As far as functionally goes. I have 600 rounds through it with no hiccups.

Is this way OK to go??



Beware the man who only has one gun. He probably knows how to use it! - John Steinbeck
 
Posts: 3878 | Location: Vallejo, CA | Registered: August 18, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If that solution works, ok - but I have a problem with Sig choosing to switch parts between the guns themselves that would cause a failure to function correctly should you grab a magazine that's not a perfect match. If a part is designed for a P226, it should work in every one of those guns.
 
Posts: 35 | Registered: June 23, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I know this string is turning out to be very popular so I'll keep it short.

4 months ago I purchased a W. German P6 (12/79); I had SIG change all the springs and check it out 2 months ago. I have 4 mags (2 came with purchase, 2 factory spec SIGSAUR mags). The slide periodically will not lock back. I cannot definitly say this did not happen before SIG changed the springs.
One of the mag's had the problem more than the others so I systematically exchanged mag springs and follower from the others; Some improvement in function but the problem remained. I replaced the old recoil spring in the gun; still a problem. I used target load ammo and P+ Gold Dot; still a problem.
The mags pass the manual bench tests recommended on page one. The SCL catches the slide most of the time (80% of the time) as a general rule.
What would you try next.


"I like my guns, my money, and God In Whom We Trust; Keep the 'Change', thank you"
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Central Pennsylvania | Registered: July 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by sippo:
I know this string is turning out to be very popular so I'll keep it short.

4 months ago I purchased a W. German P6 (12/79); I had SIG change all the springs and check it out 2 months ago. I have 4 mags (2 came with purchase, 2 factory spec SIGSAUR mags). The slide periodically will not lock back. I cannot definitly say this did not happen before SIG changed the springs.
One of the mag's had the problem more than the others so I systematically exchanged mag springs and follower from the others; Some improvement in function but the problem remained. I replaced the old recoil spring in the gun; still a problem. I used target load ammo and P+ Gold Dot; still a problem.
The mags pass the manual bench tests recommended on page one. The SCL catches the slide most of the time (80% of the time) as a general rule.
What would you try next.


Replace you mag followers with new ones.
 
Posts: 323 | Location: TX | Registered: July 18, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I took my new 226 9mm to the range tonight and shot 250 rounds through it. It never locked back after firing the last round and several ejector/feed problems. I quickly cleaned my 226 last night but did not put any lube on the rails. Tonight I did and I will be back at the range tomorrow to see if my issues are resolved.

This is a great post, and I think it needs to go back to the first page.

Also, my spring is painted orange on one end and is visible when the slide is removed. Is this on correct?


------------------------------
U.S. Navy
SACLANT 1997-1999
VF-213 1999-2001
 
Posts: 124 | Location: Delaware | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of ehgeeehewe
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Hi All,
Thanks for sharing the knowledge and experience! Good Info. My new 226 Elite Stainless 9mm gobbled it's first 150 rounds tonight. I had already field stripped, cleaned and greased w/TW25B, or whatever the little sample tube is. Felt great (I also ran a couple mags through the P6...just for old times sake. The Elite feels like 1/3 the recoil of the P6 Smile), fed flawless, love the SRT...but failed to slide lock 40% of the time. The slide locked when pulled back on the empty mag every time. This happened to 3 different shooters. I guess we all could have been mis-using the "thumbrest Wink", but I've never had a prob with the P6...I will have to eliminate that next time out. Other than that...I did have the recoil spring off for initial cleaning, so I will also have to check the orientation on that. Using factory loads; WWB, PMC and Magtech, think it happened across all. Just wanted to let others know that you're not alone, but you already knew that, 6 pages into the thread Smile. I expected to need to "work out" an issue or two before the season begins, so I've still got a few months to get "us" dialed in before it's outdoor season here in MN. Hopefully I can post a follow-up with an identified cause and not just a <shrug> it doesn't do it anymore? Thanks again for being here and sharing!
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: January 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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try locking the slide back and keeping it stored that way for a few weeks. the springs on a new sig are very stiff and need to be broken in.


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Posts: 348 | Location: USA | Registered: July 09, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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This is more of an information thread than an ongoing discussion. If you have specific questions that you can't find the answer to here, I recommend posting them in a new thread. I suspect most long term members of the forum don't pay too much attention to this one.

Based on your description ehgeeehewe, your problem is almost certainly low powered ammunition. When that's the case, it almost always goes away after a few hundred rounds. I will say, too, that all-stainless SIGs seem to have more friction between slide and frame and therefore need more lube.

I hope your problem went away, saindo. Again, use usually clears up the problems that occur with new SIGs chambered for 9mm. The recoil spring guide rod should be inserted into the tighter end of the spring. The tighter end is usually the painted end, but sometimes that's not so clear.




6.4/93.6

“Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.”
— Plato
 
Posts: 47365 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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hi, new to forum, just wanted to thank all who posted up on this thread it was very helpful. Just thought I'd share a little bit of info. I have the slide release problem as well and called sig customer service and talked to scott (1 of 4) customer service representatives at the company and the customer service was great. Sig emailed me a prepaid UPS shipping label (next day air) and all parts and labor is free under warranty and it was actually a surprise that they are paying for the shipping both ways as on their website under the warranty information is states that the customer must pay for shipping both ways. Anyways hope this helps out those who are considering sending in there guns to the factory. Oh, turnaround time is 3 weeks.
 
Posts: 7 | Registered: August 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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