Thanks for the update; glad to hear it turned out well.

Great it works. Thank you for the update.

I made up a bunch of squibb rods in different calibers from solid brass rod - much better than hardwood dowel particularly with jacketed bullets.

For squibs, do you ALWAYS drive the squib out of a barrel from the muzzle end to the chamber end (i.e., do you ALWAYS insert the dowel or brass rod into the muzzle end and knock the squid back toward the chamber end)?

Does is matter where in the barrel the squib is lodged? What if the squib is lodged about a 1/2 inch from the muzzle end?

I don't have a squib in the fight. I am just asking for my own education for when this might happen in the future.

Thanks for the advice.

TH:

No, the rule is you drive the bullet whichever direction is shortest.

When a squib is lodged in the barrel (i.e., not at the chamber but fully engaged with the rifling) it takes a slightly different procedure.

1. You need a long enough metal rod with a brass tip. An M16 cleaning rod with a brass jag worked for my AR.

2. You tap VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY gently on on the rod. You are trying to make the bullet follow the rifling (i.e., twisting) as it passes along the barrel. You do not just bash away - that causes the bullet to foce itself over the lands which can damage the rifling.

It took me five days of very gentle tapping to get the squib out of my AR barrel. Each tap moved the bullet (maybe) .05 inches. I'd tap for an hour, get pissed off, stop, tap for an hour, get pissed off, etc. but I did manage not to harm the rifling (I had it checked with a borescope).

Ok, I just gotta ask...how is the bullet going to damage the rifling? The bullet is a softer metal than the rifling and is plastically deformed by the rifling when the gun is fired, correct? If firing the gun doesn't damage the rifling, I don't see how knocking a squib out will. I can see how a harder squib rod might do some damage if someone goes all whack-a-mole on it, but not the bullet itself. Am I missing something?