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Hey all-

My shotgun cut my hands to ribbons, during a class, recently.
How would you go about breaking some of the sharp edges? I don't want a full-on professional "melt job", just smoothing the sharp edges around the loading and ejection ports.

Flitz and a Dremel, myself, and then send it out for a refinish?
Local gunsmith and then refinish?

Bruce




"I cannot spare this man. He fights!"
-Abraham Lincoln

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child — miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
-PJ O'Rourke
“It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free."
-Niccolo Machiavelli

 
Posts: 3467 | Location: NV | Registered: October 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Not really from Vienna
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Is this a steel reciever?




 
Posts: 24701 | Location: Young American Teen Club | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Aluminum Beretta 1201FP.




"I cannot spare this man. He fights!"
-Abraham Lincoln

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child — miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
-PJ O'Rourke
“It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free."
-Niccolo Machiavelli

 
Posts: 3467 | Location: NV | Registered: October 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Not really from Vienna
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I don’t know if flitz will cut through the anodizing to allow you to soften the sharp edges. I’ve used 320 grit “Wet or Dry” sandpaper to dehorn a stainless carry revolver. It worked well for that. I wrapped it around a rectangular rubber pencil eraser for a sanding block, to maintain a more consistent edge angle where needed for appearances.




 
Posts: 24701 | Location: Young American Teen Club | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Dremel tools have bad reputations in some circles, but if used judiciously they are a great tool. For the job you’re asking about, that’s exactly what I would use. If, however, the edges are sharp enough to actually cut, I agree that Flitz and a felt bob will probably not be enough unless you’re prepared to take a very long time.

Sandpaper would no doubt work as well and be more controllable, but I personally would use a Dremel with some sort of CRATEX tip. They are available with different abrasive grades, and I’d start with something not too aggressive. I have often used them for removing the sharp edges on the inside of magazine lips and other jobs when I wanted to remove a little metal. The finer abrasives will leave a pretty smooth finish, but you could always follow up with Flitz. With aluminum it’s necessary to be a little careful and not gouge the work, but just go slowly and hold the Dremel with both hands (clamp the gun to a bench or other sturdy surface). Practicing beforehand is a good idea to get a feel for things.

As for refinishing, the first question is why do you think that’s necessary? If it’s for resale value, once the gun has been modified, and especially refinished, it’s not original no matter what. If it’s just for the looks of the small polished areas, you might consider Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. It’s not great stuff, but it works okay on freshly polished surfaces. (Tip: remove all polishing compound residue and apply the stuff immediately.)

If you decide on refinishing, then there’s all the issues with anodizing: Strip and reduce the strength of the metal, or cover with a coat that may not be very durable, etc.? Even if I thought I might sell the gun at some point, I’d just let the buyer decide on refinishing.




“Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions … which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.”
— Leo Tolstoy
 
Posts: 40474 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the replies.
I am not worrying about resale value. I just want to have black gun without a ton of exposed aluminum that says "A gun plumber was here". I am considering Alumablack or air-dry Cerakote and a makeup sponge.
I will definitely go slow with the polishing. I will look at some different abrasive flexible tips.

Bruce




"I cannot spare this man. He fights!"
-Abraham Lincoln

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child — miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
-PJ O'Rourke
“It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free."
-Niccolo Machiavelli

 
Posts: 3467 | Location: NV | Registered: October 06, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I built a few 1911s from new frames last year and discovered ceramic files. (Hadn't done that kind of work in well, many years).
Wow, what a difference.

Consider using a ceramic file- very controllable (downside to dremel) and come in a huge variety of shapes/profiles. What I really like about the ceramic files is the ability to get a smooth surface without removing too much material. Reasonable price also.

 
Posts: 1161 | Location: PA | Registered: March 15, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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