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P220 locking insert removal help-Update Login/Join 
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Picture of Ironmike57
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I have a circa 1989 P220 and I am trying to detail strip it. I cannot remove the locking insert to continue the disassembly. I have watched several youtube videos that cover new and older model detail strips. I can wiggle the insert a bit but I cannot remove it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Ironmike57,
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of hjs157
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I can't tell from your photo, is the pistol de-cocked? This is your first step. Next, wiggle the block up and forward. Sometimes they're a bit of a pain, though it should pop out. There really isn't anything for it to bind upon.
 
Posts: 3488 | Location: Western PA | Registered: July 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Thanks guys. No it is not decocked. I can only move the hammer a tiny bit forward. The trigger moves a bit more.
Do I have to rebuild it to use the decocker? Or is there another way?

Thanks again.

 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
avoiding birthday parties
Picture of fjgiie
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Normally the pistol is decocked by mashing down on the decocking lever. To manually decock the hammer, push the Sear forward against the spring pressure and the hammer will decock.
 
Posts: 1366 | Registered: March 05, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Bingo!

Thanks gentlemen. I will have a question or two regarding what parts to lube and what not to lube on the frame. I found this on the Apex site. http://www.apextactical.com/bl...nternal-lubrication/

Will this suffice?
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Thanks Mustang,

It will be a multi use gun. I would like to use it for steel challenge once I change the sights. I have a good handle on lube for the frame and barrel. It is the innards that I need help with.
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Everything came apart just fine and I cleaned all of the parts. Now I am not able to identify 1 part and reassemble the gun.

I need help identifying this part and where/when it is to be installed. I cannot find it in the P220 exploded views that I have. Nor have I seen the part in the detail strip videos.

I figured that with the available videos, the project would be doable. Perhaps I bit off a little too much.

Any help would be appreciated. And I may have more questions as I progress.

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Ironmike57:
I need help identifying this part and where/when it is to be installed. I cannot find it in the P220 exploded views that I have.

It would be the same as the "Safety Lever" in your exploded view.

When installed, the longer arm will hang down and the shorter arm will face foreword.
 
Posts: 1335 | Registered: October 01, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Thanks Guys,

I guess that none of the guns in the videos had the SRT trigger! I can see the difference in the parts now.

Cheers!
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Thanks Mustang,
The bottom edge of the lever was a bit mangled. I took a file and smoothed it up a bit. That should not cause any problems?

quote:
Originally posted by Mustang-PaPa:
Its the SRT safety lever.
It goes on the right side of the sear or between the sear and frame when holding the gun in the firing position.
You will need to slide the sear pin to the left just enough that the pin is holding the sear but will let you slide the lever in place.
You may be able to do it with the trigger bar in place but its often easier to see and place if you remove the trigger bar.
If you'll look at your second picture which I have posted her you can just barely see the top of the safety lever sticking up on top between the sear pin and ejector.

I've rotated your picture of the SRT safety lever to show its installed position when viewing from the right side.
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Hey Guys, I am still having a problem on the reassembly. I have tried about a dozen times and I have watched 5 videos on the subject.

This is the furthest that I can get the hammer. Every time.

Any suggestions as to what I am doing incorrectly? I do not know how much you can tell from the photo. I can take more photos if necessary.

Thanks in advance,

Mike


 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It's possible that the hammer strut is installed incorrectly and is riding on the hammer pivot pin instead of where it's supposed to be. Hard for me to tell with this pic, but that would be my first guess.
 
Posts: 10 | Location: Jamestown, ND USA | Registered: January 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Thanks Huntin,
For the life of me I cannot see where the hammer strut goes. I did it by "feel" every time. The strut and spring did move when I pushed the hammer back and forth. This has to be the problem. All of the other parts went in nicely.
I will try again in the morning.



quote:
Originally posted by huntin1:
It's possible that the hammer strut is installed incorrectly and is riding on the hammer pivot pin instead of where it's supposed to be. Hard for me to tell with this pic, but that would be my first guess.
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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As you push the strut in the hammer should move forward, if it moves to the rear it is positioned wrong. Pull it out and move it to the rear just a bit and try again. Once you get the strut in the correct position you can install the spring and the seat.
 
Posts: 10 | Location: Jamestown, ND USA | Registered: January 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Thanks. I'll give it a try.

quote:
Originally posted by huntin1:
As you push the strut in the hammer should move forward, if it moves to the rear it is positioned wrong. Pull it out and move it to the rear just a bit and try again. Once you get the strut in the correct position you can install the spring and the seat.
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The hammer may not be properly engaged by the hammer reset spring.
 
Posts: 1335 | Registered: October 01, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of henryaz
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Reinstalling a locking block, a hammer spring (lining up the strut), and a P320 trigger bar spring are the most frustrating things I have encountered with SIGs. I always manage to get it done, but never so easily as the Youtube videos show. Frown
 
 
Posts: 10778 | Location: South Congress AZ | Registered: May 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of fjgiie
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Two things I hate about the above picture: H A T E =s= looks wrong

The hammer is back but the trigger is forward.

The Hammer is back but the mainspring is not compressed.

The Hammer strut must be reinstalled and placed rearward about 1/4 inch more. Then you can raise the strut and the hammer will move forward, as a test. The longest saddle of the hammer strut is turned rearward, and placed in the middle of the hammer (sideways middle). This is the short strut - correct?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: fjgiie,
 
Posts: 1366 | Registered: March 05, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Ironmike57
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Fjgiie, can I leave everything else intact and reinstall ONLY the strut and mainspring?
I would not know the difference between strut sizes as this is my only Sig.

Many thanks.

quote:
Originally posted by fjgiie:

Two things I hate about the above picture: H A T E =s= looks wrong

The hammer is back but the trigger is forward.

The Hammer is back but the mainspring is not compressed.

The Hammer strut must be reinstalled and placed rearward about 1/4 inch more. Then you can raise the strut and the hammer will move forward, as a test. The longest saddle of the hammer strut is turned rearward, and placed in the middle of the hammer (sideways middle). This is the short strut - correct?
 
Posts: 1972 | Location: Florida | Registered: July 26, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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This is how the strut and hammer should engage.



This is the correct hammer/reset spring interface. You can see one leg of the spring visible on top of the hammer pin.

 
Posts: 1335 | Registered: October 01, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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