I have a circa 1989 P220 and I am trying to detail strip it. I cannot remove the locking insert to continue the disassembly. I have watched several youtube videos that cover new and older model detail strips. I can wiggle the insert a bit but I cannot remove it.
Thanks in advance.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Ironmike57,
I can't tell from your photo, is the pistol de-cocked? This is your first step. Next, wiggle the block up and forward. Sometimes they're a bit of a pain, though it should pop out. There really isn't anything for it to bind upon.
Yes the pistol needs to be de-cocked to remove the locking block and when re-assembling if you get the trigger pivot pin 180* off the take-down lever won't go back in.
Thanks guys. No it is not decocked. I can only move the hammer a tiny bit forward. The trigger moves a bit more.
Do I have to rebuild it to use the decocker? Or is there another way?
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Normally the pistol is decocked by mashing down on the decocking lever. To manually decock the hammer, push the Sear forward against the spring pressure and the hammer will decock.
I see from your second picture that you have the main spring housing assembly removed.
You will need to hold the de-cocking lever down and manually move the hammer forward.
If the de-cocking lever is also now removed you will need to reach in with a pointed object and release the sear from the hammer and then manually push the hammer forward.
Thanks gentlemen. I will have a question or two regarding what parts to lube and what not to lube on the frame. I found this on the Apex site. http://www.apextactical.com/bl...nternal-lubrication/
Will this suffice?
That Apex link will work.
That guide is great for range use or extended shooting sessions IMO.
But my personal needs and uses are different and climate also plays into it.
If lubing for CCarry use I go with oil on everything.
If going to the range I'll apply a little grease on the rails.
Again conditions and use play heavy in to what is used and where.
Flork I believe is the same author to the Apex link you posted as the sticky we have in the pistols area here.
It will be a multi use gun. I would like to use it for steel challenge once I change the sights. I have a good handle on lube for the frame and barrel. It is the innards that I need help with.
Everything came apart just fine and I cleaned all of the parts. Now I am not able to identify 1 part and reassemble the gun.
I need help identifying this part and where/when it is to be installed. I cannot find it in the P220 exploded views that I have. Nor have I seen the part in the detail strip videos.
I figured that with the available videos, the project would be doable. Perhaps I bit off a little too much.
Any help would be appreciated. And I may have more questions as I progress.
Thanks in advance,
Its the SRT safety lever.
It goes on the right side of the sear or between the sear and frame when holding the gun in the firing position.
You will need to slide the sear pin to the left just enough that the pin is holding the sear but will let you slide the lever in place.
You may be able to do it with the trigger bar in place but its often easier to see and place if you remove the trigger bar.
If you'll look at your second picture which I have posted her you can just barely see the top of the safety lever sticking up on top between the sear pin and ejector.
I've rotated your picture of the SRT safety lever to show its installed position when viewing from the right side.
It would be the same as the "Safety Lever" in your exploded view.
When installed, the longer arm will hang down and the shorter arm will face foreword.
I guess that none of the guns in the videos had the SRT trigger! I can see the difference in the parts now.
Yes the SRT safety lever is longer then the std safety lever.
The bottom edge of the lever was a bit mangled. I took a file and smoothed it up a bit. That should not cause any problems?
Hey Guys, I am still having a problem on the reassembly. I have tried about a dozen times and I have watched 5 videos on the subject.
This is the furthest that I can get the hammer. Every time.
Any suggestions as to what I am doing incorrectly? I do not know how much you can tell from the photo. I can take more photos if necessary.
Thanks in advance,
It's possible that the hammer strut is installed incorrectly and is riding on the hammer pivot pin instead of where it's supposed to be. Hard for me to tell with this pic, but that would be my first guess.
For the life of me I cannot see where the hammer strut goes. I did it by "feel" every time. The strut and spring did move when I pushed the hammer back and forth. This has to be the problem. All of the other parts went in nicely.
I will try again in the morning.
As you push the strut in the hammer should move forward, if it moves to the rear it is positioned wrong. Pull it out and move it to the rear just a bit and try again. Once you get the strut in the correct position you can install the spring and the seat.
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