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I'm Fine
Picture of SBrooks
posted
So, I've read (and obey) the how to lube your sig thread and I understand pretty well all the points on a semi-auto pistol that need grease or oil.

But I only own one revolver and didn't grow up using them. Ruger SP101 .357mag. Anything in particular I should be using oil on, grease on, or NOT putting oil onto/into ?


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SBrooks
 
Posts: 2919 | Location: East Tennessee | Registered: August 21, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
Picture of GaryBF
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All I oil regularly are the extractor shaft and the crane pivots for the cylinder and frame. On occasion I will oil the mechanism.
 
Posts: 11121 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of JAFO
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If you don't plan on shooting it for a long time, don't overdo the oil on the extractor shaft and star. I once had to clean up the remnants of excess gun oil that had evaporated from a long-stored revolver extractor. It left behind a shellac-like substance that was a bit of a pain to clean up and initially caused the star to stick to the cylinder.


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Overheard at an actual match:
"Tapers! Come on, guys, we need tapers!"
"No, my name's Gonzales."
 
Posts: 5006 | Location: S.A., TX | Registered: July 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
I'm Fine
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So, there aren't any danger spots like the firing pin channel on a semi-auto ?


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SBrooks
 
Posts: 2919 | Location: East Tennessee | Registered: August 21, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Not really from Vienna
Picture of arfmel
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I try to avoid getting much oil under the extractor star because it attracts powder residue whch can tie the gun up.




 
Posts: 22447 | Location: Young American Teen Club | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of JAFO
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quote:
Originally posted by SBrooks:
So, there aren't any danger spots like the firing pin channel on a semi-auto ?


I'm not familiar with the SP101, but if it has a separate firing pin in the frame like a 642, you want to avoid lubing that for the same reasons.


<><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Overheard at an actual match:
"Tapers! Come on, guys, we need tapers!"
"No, my name's Gonzales."
 
Posts: 5006 | Location: S.A., TX | Registered: July 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
Just don't use what one guy used on his gun he brought into a shop I used to work at.
Action was frozen up. We asked what kind of lube he used. His answer, olive oil!
It took a full day to clean it up and oil it correctly.
 
Posts: 328 | Location: The once great state of California | Registered: November 05, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of markstempski
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by JAFO:
quote:
Originally posted by SBrooks:
So, there aren't any danger spots like the firing pin channel on a semi-auto ?


I'm not familiar with the SP101, but if it has a separate firing pin in the frame like a 642, you want to avoid lubing that for the same reasons.


I think all the rugers use a transfer bar as well as the newer N frame Smiths. I use Lucas extreme gun oil and basically just on parts that rub against other parts with the exception of the firing pin and the internal lock work. I think that is best done with the side plate off and two of my smiths are due for a thorough cleaning. You tube still has vids on cleaning and lubricating firearms. Take a look. lubrication lots easier to video. Disassembly and reassembly takes more skill to capture that one tricky part that seems to be part of every sig and CZ assembly. I managed to find some good you tube vids on m1 a lubricating that were very thorough. When one is ones own armorer pays to find any aid especially when one is not blessed with spatial reasoning or mechanical aptitude like myself


Mundus Vult Decipi
 
Posts: 956 | Location: Duvall WA, USA | Registered: February 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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