I had several guns that needed new night sights or adjustments. So, I decided to buy a good sight pusher and do it myself.
I spent over $300 on a MGW Sight Pro and was able to adjust the sights on my Sig 938 which was grouping to the left, and replaced the sights on my 380 Bodyguard. Both guns took quite a bit of force to accomplish this, but it worked without scratching the gun at all. Now on to my Ruger LC9s; so far, it's been impossible to budge the factory sights (wanted to add night sights). Took the set screw out of the back sight and soaked it with WD40 over night. Will see tomorrow if it moves.
This job should have been a breeze with this pusher but, the problem is the turn key is not wide, and doesn't provide a lot of leverage. The company absolutely cautions against using some kind of leverage, but right now, I can't get this sight to move. At this point I'm thinking of contacting MGW.
We all have our own criteria for anything, but considering how well the MGW sight pusher works for so many people—including me and your own other experiences—I find it difficult to blame the tool rather than the gun. I have resorted to moving the crossbar of the turn handle to one end to increase the leverage I can apply, and assume that that’s not prohibited by the company’s instructions. If the MGW pusher doesn’t work, I cannot imagine what would other than a hefty punch and big hammer. Perhaps Ruger would be better able to suggest something.
Something to consider is the trick of putting the slide in a freezer overnight to see if that will loosen the sight. I’m not sure that that is actually the right way to go as compared with heating the slide that might not be a good idea, but it can’t hurt, I believe.
“Most men … can seldom accept the simplest and most obvious truth if it … would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions … which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabrics of their lives.”
— Leo Tolstoy
|That's just the |
I wouldn't blame the sight pusher. If the soaking doesn't help, try putting the slide in the freezer overnight.
I guess the WD40 Did the job. This morning I headed in to the garage to tackle the sight after an all night soak......sure enough, I was able to break that sight loose. The font sight was less resistant.
Now, I have a nice set of TFOs and no scratches! All is good!
Glad you got it to work. Had I known about the Sight Pro back when I purchased my P-series MGW, I would have gotten the Pro instead. It's more $$$, but the ability to lower the pusher to the very bottom of the sight blade is something I don't like about my current MGW.
Overheard at an actual match:
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"No, my name's Gonzales."
How did you do that? My crossbar does not move, I believe it is welded together. If that were possible, it would certainly give more leverage.
Look at the end of the threaded cross shaft. Should be an allen headed set screw holding the crossbar in place.
Just take the box end of a wrench and use that as extra leverage/cheater bar.
Don't go crazy...also when you get it loaded up and it still won't move the sight just strike the cross shaft with a light hammer stroke if the direction of the sight mover force.
Most sights aren't that difficult but I have had a few over the years that would make a loud pop when they broke loose using an MGW gun specific pusher.
I have a Beretta PX4 Compact that refuses to budge with the sight pro. I might try the deep freeze.
You can only go so far in any one direction before you eventually drive off a cliff
As well as lubrication, I have also at times used a cheater, very cautiously, on the turn handle. Pair of vise grips clamped to one end of the turn handle, or you could find a piece of pipe that fits over it. This was enough to break the bond.
|Old Air Cavalryman|
This is the same method I've used on mine, as well. No issues at all.
"Also I heard the voice of the Lord saying who shall I send, and who will go for us? Then said I, here am I, send me."
OP, I would throw that wd40 in the trash and get a real penetrating oil like Kroil, or Freeze Off.
Disabled combat vet
A homebrew penetrating oil tested better than any off-the-shelf products (I did not do the tests myself, but they're on-line).
50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid). On a gun, best to make sure it won't damage the finish.
I've used this on a number of occasions and it does work very well. When first mixed, you'll need to shake before use as it separates. Works better than Kroil, which I also use.
|Step by step walk the thousand mile road|
BTW, WD-40 is the wrong thing to use.
Krill, a type of penetrating oil is about 10,000,000 times better.
I've unstuck bolts and nuts so corroded as to be faster to break off, unless replacing them is a nightmare a few hours longer.
Nice is overrated
"It's every freedom-loving individual's duty to lie to the government."
Airsoftguy, June 29, 2018
|addicted to trailing-throttle oversteer|
Interesting that the Sight-Pro initially had a problem with the LC9S factory sights. Long before I owned the Sight-Pro, I changed out a factory set on a drinking buddy's LC9 (the hammer version) using a brass punch and a mallet. I actually found that the factory sights came off a lot easier than I had expected them to. The Williams fiber optic replacements took a bit more encouragement to get on, but in the end it came out fine doing it the old fashioned way.
To date I've had no problems with the Sight-Pro, other than sometimes discovering that I don't have the proper slide shoe right when I needed it.
To Sig2340, perhaps you meant Kroil? Good stuff; its aroma doesn't linger quite as long as PB Blaster's, though both have worked very well for me in freeing up stuck gun parts. I've managed to jam up SIG locking inserts on at least a couple of occasions and both at different times have worked great at loosening the offending parts after an overnight soak.
I'll Second the Kriol "OVERNIGHT" suggestion.
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