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P220 trigger and sights question Login/Join 
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Just picked up nice 1993 vintage P220 .45 last week and got a chance to try it out this weekend. Looking for some input on a couple things I want to change on it before I start swapping parts. First the SA trigger pull is way too light and I want to increase it. Slight finger pressure causes it to fire giving me a couple fliers in each group. I like being able to have my finger on the trigger while lining up the sights, still having a bit of pull before firing. I dont have a tool to measure it, but I compared it to a couple of my other P220's of similar vintage and its noticeably lighter. I dont know if the previous owner changed anything or not. I'm thinking start with a stock weight mainspring and maybe trying a step heavier than stock or is there something else I should try?
Second item would be the sights. I almost hate to touch the sights. Im getting 1 1/2" groups and could probably do better if I can get the trigger pull adjusted, but I much prefer the old Von Stavenhagen sights over the current dead factory night sights. As far as swapping them, would the numbers on the old style sights and the night sights match up to the same sight heights? Thanks
 
Posts: 29 | Location: 2000 miles from home | Registered: November 04, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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The factory specification single action trigger pull weight is 4 1/2 pounds. If it’s significantly lighter, then something must have been done to the action. The most likely possibility is that the mainspring was replaced with a lighter aftermarket spring. The first thing I’d do is replace it with a factory spec spring.

If you replace the dead night sights the same numbers “contrast” sights, the point of impact won’t change (assuming you aim the same way).




“The fundamental cause of trouble in the world today is that the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt.”
— Bertrand Russell
 
Posts: 42268 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Older P220s do not have a Hammer Reset Spring. This is an important difference in the safe handling of older P220 pistols.

The Hammer Reset Spring is a small spring attached to rear of the Hammer and concealed by the plastic Hammer Stop.

On an updated P220 (manufactured in/after 1994ish), if the Decocking Lever is not used and the Hammer is instead lowered incorrectly by using the thumb and trigger method ~ The Hammer Reset Spring pulls the Hammer away from the Firing Pin and into the Safety Intercept Notch.

Older P220s never had a Hammer Reset Spring, if the Decocking Lever is not used and instead the Hammer is lowered incorrectly using the thumb and trigger method ~ the Hammer is free to move and will discharge the weapon if it strikes the Firing Pin.

This unsafe configuration was determined to be the cause of a negligent discharge in 2002 when a San Fernando, CA SWAT officer dropped his duty belt. The P220, while still holstered hit the concrete causing the hammer to impact the chambered round. The officer was killed from a single gunshot wound through the head in the station's parking lot. http://catonews.org/we-remembe...ficer-jesse-paderez/

Use of the Decocking Lever is a hard and fast rule with all of my Sigs. Back in the 1970s and 80's, there were two maybe three pistols that had previously had a Decocking Lever. Up until that point in time, thumbing down the hammer was the norm and for many it was a hard habit to break as was learning to rely on a new technology called a decocker.

With the P220 issue, there is a simple test to determine if your pistol has a Hammer Reset Spring.

With a CONFIRMED UNLOADED P220, rack the Slide and with the pistol pointed in a safe direction pull the Trigger while thumbing down the Hammer. Keep the Trigger pulled all the way to the rear ~ until the Hammer is in the down position then gently push the Hammer forward to see how far it travels to impact the Firing Pin. This is the normal firing sequence of your P220 pistol.

Release the Hammer and rack the Slide again then use the Decocking Lever to return the hammer to the ready position. The Hammer will rest in the Safety Intercept Notch and will not move forward when you apply forward pressure with your thumb on the Hammer.

Rack the Slide for a third time and using the trigger and thumb, return the Hammer to its resting position. After you release the Trigger, gently use your thumb to push the Hammer forward. If the Hammer moves forward and touches the Firing Pin you have an early P220 without a Hammer Reset Spring. If the Hammer does not move, then your P220 was produced after Sig made the change.

Regardless to which P220 you have there is a simple solution, always use the Decocking Lever and never thumb down the Hammer.




My Photobucket albums:

1978 Browning BDA .45cal (aka Sig P220 with European Magazine Release):
http://s671.photobucket.com/al...Cal%20aka%20SigP220/

1986 SigSauer P226 with Mud Rails and Full NP3:
http://s671.photobucket.com/al...bar%20NP3%20Coating/

Winchester 1897 WW1 Trenchgun:
http://s671.photobucket.com/al...h%20Gun%2012%20Gage/
 
Posts: 2602 | Location: San Diego, CA  | Registered: July 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For the sights I would suggest putting up a WTB stock Sig p220 sights in the classifieds. There are a lot of people here who have upgraded the original bar dot sights to night sights and would probably sell for very cheap. I believe the stock P220 sights are #8 rear and #6 front. --> Actually just saw someone selling a good condition take off set after I posted this.

As for the trigger, try a stock or heavier hammer spring. You can buy new quality ones of different weights here: https://www.gunsprings.com/SIG...0/cID1/mID4/dID6#286 Make sure you buy the hammer spring that corresponds to the spring base type in your pistol.
 
Posts: 4153 | Location: Boise, ID USA | Registered: February 14, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Digging up this olg thread. I just purchased an older P220 and it has a hammer spring issue. When cocking it, then using the decocker to lower the hammer into the notch, but it is loose in the notch. It’s sort of flops around. It’s cycles fine, but I’m leery of using it after seeing the article. This hammer would certainly discharge the chambered round if the hammer got bumped. The serial number starts with “G”. Thoughts?
 
Posts: 1 | Registered: November 06, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
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Originally posted by freemachinist:
When cocking it, then using the decocker to lower the hammer into the notch, but it is loose in the notch. It’s sort of flops around.


By “flops around” I assume you’re referring to the fact that after decocking it’s still possible to push the hammer forward slightly before it stops. If so, that’s the way it’s supposed to be.

After decocking, there is a small gap between the sear and the decocking intercept hook/notch of the hammer. That’s no doubt intended to ensure reliability because without that gap any slight misfitting of the parts or dirt, firing debris, etc. would prevent the parts from moving to their proper positions.

The proper function check you can perform is to pull the trigger of the (unloaded, obviously) gun and hold the trigger to the rear. Then it should be possible to push the hammer all the way forward to contact the rear of the firing pin where it extends from the rear of the slide. When you release the hammer and then release the trigger, the hammer should move back from the firing pin: that’s the function of the hammer reset spring. After doing that, it should be possible to push the hammer forward a slight bit, but not far enough to contact the firing pin.

The original P220s did not have the hammer reset spring, and the hammer would remain forward in contact with the firing pin after dry firing or “thumbing down” the hammer. That’s why the decocker should always be used. When the hammer is blocked by the sear after using the decocker, though, the gun cannot be fired by “bumping” the hammer or even dropping it from a height onto the hammer. The sear holds the hammer away from the firing pin, and the “safety lock” in the slide blocks the firing pin unless the trigger is pulled.

Even if an older P220 does not have the hammer reset spring, if it’s decocked as it should be with the decocking lever, the hammer is blocked by the sear at that point. And in reference to that article about the officer who was killed when he dropped his pistol and the hammer was obviously not reset properly, there must have been an additional problem with the safety lock. Perhaps it was gunked up with dirt or old lube (don’t lube that part!) and didn’t block the firing pin.

Welcome to the forum, BTW.




“The fundamental cause of trouble in the world today is that the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt.”
— Bertrand Russell
 
Posts: 42268 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Welcome to SigForum FreeMachinist!

I wasn't able to locate your email address in your profile. If you click on my user name and view Public Profile (only viewable to Members) my you will find my email address.

Feel free to email your contact info and I will give you a call. SigFreund ~ as always ~ has some great info for you above. If you want to be able to talk thru this and ask questions as I have you run thru the function check on your hammer ~ I am happy to do so.

.
 
Posts: 2602 | Location: San Diego, CA  | Registered: July 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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