I finished doing my trigger job on my P6. I'm very happy with the results. Work that I did consisted of:

smoothing and polishing out the ramp on the hammer that the sear rides on into the cocked position.

smoothing and polishing the sear's corresponding ramp.

replacing mainspring with a wolf 18lb from topgunsupplies

polishing hammer and sear normal wear surfaces (determined by blueing wear)

Polishing the bottom of the hammer strut and hammer strut plate which contact each other when cocking the hammer.

Cutting off 2 coils from the firing pin safety spring (this practically eliminates stacking at the end of the double action trigger pull, while still allowing the trigger safety to engage)

I also evened out a section of the hammer (i don't know what it's called) to allow the sear to lock a little bit deeper (about .5mm max) deeper into the hammer when in the cocked position.

some other stuff I did:

cut into the top of the trigger (I have the original gun's trigger) to make the curve deeper. This helped my finger actually stay on the trigger instead of sliding and getting pinched between the trigger and frame's trigger guard.

took the edge off of the feed ramp on the barrel to facilitate better feeding

about to install trijicon nightsights.

I think for now my P6 is in great condition. I'll try to post pictures of what I did in a few days.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: reelay,

quote:

Originally posted by reelay:
smoothing and polishing out the ramp on the hammer that the sear rides on into the cocked position.

smoothing and polishing the sear's corresponding ramp.

+1, I change the angle of the above mentioned ramps. These can reduce much of the tension from the searspring when pulling the trigger in DA mode. I think it greatly reduces the stacking in the DA pull.

I'm not sure why there's a ramp there in the first place. IMHO it would have been much better if it was a continuous and straight slope instead of a bumped up ramp.

Yeah you're right.

I think they made it that way because it was easier to tool the hammer and sear.

before I made any changes I kind of eyed the hammer and saw that its ramp was parallel and coincident with another edge so I'm guessing they just made one cut there.

Double bonus points for doing it yourself!
I didnt know about the cutting 2 coils thing I will give it a try. It makes perfect sense to me.

Thanks for posting your process. It helps out the rest of us amateur armorers.

BTW, when you made the sear seat deeper in the SA notch did it change the relative postition of the trigger when the sear breaks?

Thanks,

if it did change the position... i cannot notice it.

I'm going to edit the document I posted above. .5 to 1mm is too aggressive. I only .5mm max more would have made the SA trigger pull too long.

Understood, thanks for the reply.

What did you use to fix/polish the angle on the feed ramp.

quote:

Originally posted by 03556JLL:
What did you use to fix/polish the angle on the feed ramp.

I use a jeweler's file to change the angle and then polish with 1000-2000grit wrapped around the flat of the file. Go slow and do not touch the hooks and you should be fine. You want to lessen the steepness of the ramp on the hammer.

I used a dremel first to take out the edge, then a file wrapped with 600 grit sandpaper, then when I was satisfied with the ramp, I used polishing compound and a polishing tool on my dremel to give it a mirror finish

I drag the hammer across 1200 grit paper with Flitz to smooth out the ramp and decrease the trigger creep at the same time. When Im satisfied with the creep adjustment and DA pull ramp smoothing then I move on to the geometry of the sear tooth and SA notch, slowly that is.

Hi reelay,

Eagerly awaiting pics of Ur trigger job.

I have 2 coils off mainspring & it's much better than when received... but smoother, I'd really like!

Here's the pics finally.

The 2nd to last picture of the trigger:

Here's the things that I modified. I left some out but they're mostly there.








I wanted to take more out of the trigger to make it fit my finger better, and in doing so cut a hole in the middle of the trigger, i filled it with JBweld and sanded it down. It fits very well now and I, with my thick skinned fingers, can't tell that it's metal or jbweld.


Nylon washers both inside and outside the frametake the play out of the decocking lever.


Cuda maxx and my P6, i refinished the slide myself with some rust-based stuff. Turned out okay, gives it character I say. Also working on making some cocobolo grips, but that turned out to be a project that is going to have to be put on hold for a while.

quote:

Cutting off 2 coils from the firing pin safety spring (this practically eliminates stacking at the end of the double action trigger pull, while still allowing the trigger safety to engage)

What exactly does this do.. sorry I'm new to the terminology of stacking.. Also where is this located?

reelay: your pics are down

As for my P6 '83, I dremelled the feed ramp. Definitely made a huge difference. Used 1500 grit to finish off, and used dremel to polish. Looks like feeding problem is gone.. though need to buy more variety of JHP to make sure.

What happened to the photos? Where did they go?

Photos probably got overviewed beyond the quota, or was deleted. I wanted to see them too..