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Hi all,

Just got an almost brand new SIG P226 TACOPS in .40 cal. The gun shoots great, but it does have an issue I'm dealing with. The sear spring roll pin is loose and tends to slide out (inward) after about 30-40 rounds. I have ordered a new roll pin and SIG is sending it to me for no charge.

My concern is, obviously, if the roll poin hole in the frame is slightly enlarged. Does anyone have a source for roll pins of specific diameters, in case the factory replacement is the same size and does the same thing. It would seem a slightly larger pin would resolve the issue without concern about potentially changing out the frame.

Thanks in advance...

JJ


Hot and Sunny SoCal, T-shirt and shorts 85% of the year!
 
Posts: 270 | Registered: July 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The Sear Spring Pin is attached to the inside of the frame. The upper leg of the Sear Spring sits under it to provide tension. The Sear Spring Pin is not a part that Sig Sauer Customer Service should provide to an owner for replacement in the field.

The Sear Pivot Pin is the removal pin that sits in the holes located in the frame's rail channel and slides through the Sear, Sear Spring, and Ejector.

I think you are asking about the Sear Pivot Pin, not the Sear Spring Pin ~~ Am I correct?

Also, please clarify what the Sear Pivot Pin installed in your pistol looks like?

Is it solid, or does it have an inner & outer slotted pin, or is it coiled like a snake ready to strike?

I ask because when I hear "roll pin" I typically think of the two part (inner & outer) slotted pin or single coiled pin where the P226 Sear Pivot Pin should be s solid pin. Sorry for the large picture, but I wanted to show how the ends of the solid Sear Pivot Pin are tapered.


Sear Pivot Pin pic from MidwayUSA
(www.MidwayUSA.com/product/138881/Sig-Sauer-Sear-Pivot-Pin-Sig-Sauer-P220-P225-P226-P228-P229-P239-P245)

There are three sources that come to mind with the skill, experience, and knowledge to manufacture a solid, slightly-larger-than-standard-size Sear Pivot Pin. They are:

Grey Guns (www.GrayGuns.com) in Spray, OR

Scott Folk at Apex Tactical (www.ApexTactical.com) in Peoria, AZ

Kevin Kina at Accu-Strut (www.Accu-Strut.com) in San Fran Bay Area

Hopefully, what happened is that the frame's Sear Pivot Pin holes are on the larger side of the specs while the Sear Pivot Pin installed is on the smaller side of the specs.

Finding a pin that is hopefully more in the middle or on the larger side of the size spec may correct your issue.

.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sleepla8er,




My Photobucket albums:

1978 Browning BDA .45cal (aka Sig P220 with European Magazine Release):
http://s671.photobucket.com/al...Cal%20aka%20SigP220/

1986 SigSauer P226 with Mud Rails and Full NP3:
http://s671.photobucket.com/al...bar%20NP3%20Coating/

Winchester 1897 WW1 Trenchgun:
http://s671.photobucket.com/al...h%20Gun%2012%20Gage/
 
Posts: 2275 | Location: San Diego, CA  | Registered: July 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Flomax talking
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Posts: 10583 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Is the sear pivot pin centered in its hole? it should be centered when installed.
 
Posts: 503 | Location: S.E. Pa. | Registered: October 19, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Sorry the gun is not with me at the moment. I will explain further. It is a roll pin, hollow, the upper pin that puts tension on the upper leg of the v-shaped sear spring. It is not a solid pin. I will photo it tomorrow and show the exact type and location.


I am hoping the factory one Sig is sending will be a tad larger. The frame hole does not appear to be stretched out or mis-shaped. I'll mike it tomorrow and search around for some slightly larger sizes after the Sig replacement arrives.

Thanks to all for the quick responses!

JJ


Hot and Sunny SoCal, T-shirt and shorts 85% of the year!
 
Posts: 270 | Registered: July 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Since we have comments about everything from firing pin positioning pins to sear pins, this is the pin he's talking about.

 
Posts: 1157 | Registered: October 01, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Any roll pin should work, or use some (Red?) Loctite on the pin you have. It is not supposed to come out.
 
Posts: 10583 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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JJ, the nice pic GP (thank you sir) posted is the Sear Spring Pin, and I'm surprised that Sig Customer Service sent a new one to you because of this statement in the Armorer Manual...

"The Sear Spring Pin may only be replaced by the factory and not by field armorers."

Other than the importance of it's position being just a hair below the frame's rail channel so not to impede the slide's movement ~ I don't know why this is the only P226 part that Sig states is not field replaceable.

I would love to see before and after pics along with any notes/suggestions you have for others needing to replace this part.
 
Posts: 2275 | Location: San Diego, CA  | Registered: July 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by GaryBF:
Any roll pin should work, or use some (Red?) Loctite on the pin you have. It is not supposed to come out.


Just be sure not to Loctite it to the ejector. Wink


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Posts: 4810 | Location: S.A., TX | Registered: July 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi all,

Yes, the picture that GP sent is the same pin, although slightly different in appearance than mine. Mine does not have the serrations as showing in his photo.

When the new one arrives and I have a chance to mike out both of them, I will repost with the details. This is the first time I've ever had a mechanical issue with a factory part on any of my Sigs.

I had also thought about the loctite solution, but I'll check to see if there is a slight sizing issue first.

JJ


Hot and Sunny SoCal, T-shirt and shorts 85% of the year!
 
Posts: 270 | Registered: July 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by sleepla8er:
~ I don't know why this is the only P226 part that Sig states is not field replaceable.

Because it is press-fitted at the factory.
 
Posts: 503 | Location: S.E. Pa. | Registered: October 19, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Should you decide to use either the new pin (assuming sig sends you the right part), or the existing pin. I'd recommend using Loctite 680 retaining compound (quote from their site below). Remove the ejector first so you are only dealing with pin and frame. Clean well with acetone (check first if you have a Legion for surface compatibility). Leave undisturbed for at least 10 minutes. You can get it on amazon etc. Loctite high strength thread locker is not the same stuff!

LOCTITE® 680™ Retaining Compound is a high strength, high viscosity room temperature curing adhesive used to join fitted cylindrical parts. It fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi. Capable of filling diametral gaps up to 0.015 in. (0.38 mm).
 
Posts: 1139 | Location: Nevada, United States | Registered: April 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Bumper,

Thanks for that data. I was not aware of the particular Loctite...good to know for lots of different things! I got the notice that Sig mailed out the new sear spring pin. It should be here by next Saturday, per the shipping notice.

I still want to mike the new and old pieces to see if it was a slightly undersized pin or an oversized frame hole.

I'll post again afterwards.

Thanks,

JJ


Hot and Sunny SoCal, T-shirt and shorts 85% of the year!
 
Posts: 270 | Registered: July 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi all,

Well, still waiting for the new pin to arrive. But I did some further research and found out some more info, through the internet, where "everything is always true" ...Right!!!!

Anyway, there was supposedly a batch of sear pins the went into several P series guns in the 2013 time frame, which were slightly undersized per Sigs specs. And of course, my gun was built in that time frame. How they were able to get out for delivery without being discovered, well that issue was not addressed.

I have looked very closely at the frame hole in my gun, and it does not appear to be stretched, or otherwise misshaped. I have a very simple install method for when the new pin arrives, as long as it mikes out correctly to install. So hopefully by next week, I will have this resolved.

Take care,

JJ


Hot and Sunny SoCal, T-shirt and shorts 85% of the year!
 
Posts: 270 | Registered: July 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi all,

Well, the new sear spring pin came in from Sig yesterday, and here is the update. The new pin miked out at an average of .084, compared to the old one, which was an average of .078. I was able to very easily install it with a standard roll pin punch, and there is no doubt in my mind the pin is now permanently in place.

I'll be test firing the weapon on Monday, but all the mechanical functions are working perfectly. I'm not a Sig Armorer, but I really felt this was a job that I could easily handle. I have done numerous DAK conversions on other Sigs, and I have over 30 years of firearms and mechanical experience. But I can see why Sig may not want folks to mess with this, because if one is not careful, the frame hole could be damaged.

As for me, I'm very glad Sig sent me the part, and I didn't have to send the pistol in and have it gone for who knows how long.

This TACOPS has really become my favorite Sig, even though I'm far more used to the DAK trigger system. The SRT DA/SA on this particular gun is just extremely smooth and is the most accurate Sig I own.


Take Care,

JJ


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Posts: 270 | Registered: July 08, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank you for the update




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Fantastic news, Great Job!!!
 
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