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Anyone know of any tricks of the trade to remove that little pin that holds the main spring on the hammer strut?
 
Posts: 5240 | Registered: August 18, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
That's just the
Flomax talking
Picture of GaryBF
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First of all, you need to know that the pin is tapered and only removes one way. Then you have to use your ingenuity to press down on the cross piece while removing the pin. I built a tool that worked well. Some have used an old fork or a pair of needle nose pliers. There are even tools sold commercially.
 
Posts: 11762 | Location: St. Louis, Missouri | Registered: February 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks. I did not know that the pin is tapered. Now that you mention it, IIRC, I used an old fork the last time I tried this which was a few years ago.
 
Posts: 5240 | Registered: August 18, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I didn't know the pin was tapered either, I just thought it was a standard roll pin.

The easiest way I've found to remove the pin is while the assembly is still in the pistol. Cock the hammer which takes pressure off the pin. Using needle-nose pliers, place one jaw on the end of the pin and one jaw on the strut near the pin. Press the pin left or right until one end is flush with the strut. Then the pin can be pulled out using the pliers. Decock and carefully unseat the mainspring seat. Done.

To reassemble, place the strut in a padded vice vertically (pin hole to the top). Place the spring onto the strut, compress the spring and insert a pin punch to hold the assembly together. RP springs I can compress with one hand while inserting the punch. If replacing the stock spring, I use both hands to compress the spring and have a helper insert the punch into the strut. I have also been known to hold the punch in my mouth if no helper is available.

The assembly, with punch, can be installed into the pistol. Cock the hammer, remove the punch and insert the roll pin. I use the needle nose pliers for this also.

Hope that makes sense.


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"Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician." -Jeff Cooper


Now an FFL licensee, working on SIGs and other assorted firearms. My email is in my profile.
 
Posts: 8480 | Location: UT | Registered: December 05, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thank You.
 
Posts: 5240 | Registered: August 18, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Greymann
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The older grips can be modified so you can use the E2 style main spring assembly with the short seat.

I modified my P228 west german grips for the E2 main spring assembly and for the new style trigger bar spring.
 
Posts: 757 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: March 21, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of sleepla8er
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.

I'm guessing this is just a one-time work effort and you're not working on several of the older Hammer Strut assemblies?

I ask because Total Automation of Charlotte OH, VA (434-542-4539) made a Hammer Strut Tool way back when the original 4 piece all metal assemble was still the standard. If you have a need to work on the old assemblies, this tool would be a huge help.

Best tool I ever purchased for a specific job!!!

.
 
Posts: 2602 | Location: San Diego, CA  | Registered: July 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Correct, I changed the hammer strut spring a few years ago and am doing it again on a different gun. I doubt I will ever be doing it again. GaryBF reminded me of how I did it before with a fork so I'll be trying that again if Chris's recommendation doesn't work.
 
Posts: 5240 | Registered: August 18, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Update. I tried Chris's recommendation and it worked like a charm. No problems whatsoever. The key IMHO is the use of a vise. Once I locked the strut in the vise I was able to simply push the spring down far enough to get a temporary pin inside the hole. I then placed the entire assembly inside the gun, cocked it, removed the temporary pin, installed the real pin and presto, back in service. Thanks to all for the advice but especially Chris.
 
Posts: 5240 | Registered: August 18, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I need to do this with my older sigs. I thought the sig armorers tool was useful for this. Need to make sure I have the parts first oh well TGS gets more of my money
 
Posts: 1258 | Location: Duvall WA, USA | Registered: February 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have the Sig tool and to tell you the truth the only part of it I've ever used is the flat blade part. Anything I've ever worked on with the Sig tool I could have accomplished with a regular screwdriver. It comes with three other tips and I don't even know what you would use them for. The vise was the most important part of the whole job.
 
Posts: 5240 | Registered: August 18, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Bulldog7972:
I have the Sig tool and to tell you the truth the only part of it I've ever used is the flat blade part. Anything I've ever worked on with the Sig tool I could have accomplished with a regular screwdriver. It comes with three other tips and I don't even know what you would use them for. The vise was the most important part of the whole job.


As I surmised, thanks not like one wouldn’t be useful for other tasks, meaning the vise.
 
Posts: 1258 | Location: Duvall WA, USA | Registered: February 08, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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